khiva

One of my favorite memories of Khiva takes place in an odd location: sitting at a folding table covered by a blanket, sheltered from the street’s view by a fluttering wall of suzani embroidery, learning from a woodcarving master. Behind the suzani wall, the Islam Khoja Minaret stood above us, and countless travelers passed us…

Within the UNESCO-listed fortified city of Itchan Kala, there are many places that easily take your breath away: this part of the city packs more sights per square inch than anywhere else I can think of in the world. And yet tucked away behind rather nondescript stone walls — hence its rather literal name, meaning…