Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Bosnia bears its battle scars. The war that ripped through the country in the 1990s is still very much present in its architecture.
In an odd way, these reminders of the war have become a tourist attraction of sorts, from the Sniper Tower in Mostar to the abandoned Olympic bobsled track in Sarajevo and everything in between.
While I don’t wish to paint Bosnia as a place only of sadness and grieving, I think it’s important to understand the history of the country and pay respects to the victims of the recent wars should you choose to visit this wonderful country.
However, that is to say that Bosnia & Herzegovina does make a fantastic destination for dark tourism, but of course, you should visit respectfully and with an open attitude to learning about the history rather than a purely macabre interest.
That said, Bosnia is more than just a war-torn country. It is a place of unrivaled natural beauty and history. It has everything from a tiny patch of coastline to incredible mountains to gorgeous rivers and waterfalls.
But as a history geek slash habitual melancholic, I feel compelled to write up this guide to understanding the modern-day ruins of Bosnia, so you can understand the challenges the country has faced and what it has to recover from.
Especially in light of the vitriol leveled towards refugees worldwide – particularly Muslim refugees – I think it’s important to remember and pay respects to the human costs of hatred, war, and violence. As the poignant graffiti outside the Mostar sniper tower reminds us: “we are all living under the same sky”.
Mostar
Mostar is a wonderful city worth spending several days in, but it’s quite small – you can easily see the highlights of Mostar in a day.
If you’re into urban exploration, here are two destinations that should be on your list.
The Sniper Tower
The Sniper Tower is a former bank in the center of Mostar. As Yugoslavia broke apart, the wounds of dormant ethnic tensions reopened, causing widespread violence between ethnic groups in what is now Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Serbs and Croats used the bank as a sniper tower to shoot their Muslim neighbors, the Bosniaks, during the war, mostly in 1993-1994
If you’re on the Muslim side of the river (same side as the bus station), you’ll need to cross the Old Bridge and walk through the Old Town. Once you get to the main road (Bulevar) you’ll turn right and follow it for about 10 minutes until you hit the Spanish Square (Spanski Trg).
You’ll be confronted with a menacing looking abandoned triangular building. It’s hard to believe that less than thirty years ago, it was a fully functional bank. There’s graffiti all along the outside, and it’ll look like there’s no way in.
Technically speaking, there isn’t. Walk around the back of the building, where there’s a courtyard and a lot of apartment windows. It’s a little easier to enter here by first scaling one of the smaller cement blocks then pulling yourself up and over the ledge. Be careful when dropping down onto the ground floor, as there is broken glass everywhere.
Being inside the tower is haunting. Glass, trash, and 2-liter plastic bottles of cheap beer are everywhere. It’s clear that people have turned this building into something else entirely.
For some, it’s a home for the down and out; for others, a place to get drunk and scribble on the walls; for others, it’s a bit like rubbernecking a traffic accident.
If you climb to the top (which I recommend doing, as it is a moving experience), please be incredibly careful. There are absolutely no walls anywhere near the stairs – one wrong move and you could be seriously injured or even killed.
This is really not an experience for those who are afraid of heights. I never thought I was until I got there. There’s also a small gap in the middle of the staircase that you could easily fall into and break your leg. Really, don’t be stupid and go here after one too many Sarajevsko beers or rakijas. Keep your wits about you.
Another note: please be respectful of this place. I went with a girl from my hostel and she was giggling, cursing, and taking selfies all over the building, and it made me sick to my stomach.
As we left the tower, kids from some sort of international exchange program were traipsing up their stairs, swathed in flags of their home countries, also loud and giggly. I even saw a German girl in a fucking dirndl and German flag as if it were Oktoberfest. Dude, people died here. If you visit, treat it with respect.
A Walk Down Maršala Tita
If you come into Mostar by bus, you will likely walk down Maršala Tita, the main road on the Bosniak side of the river. As you walk down the street, you’ll see bombed out buildings where life – if not human life – has begun to take root.
Tree branches tumble out of blown-out windows. Signs warn against entering the buildings. I’d listen to these warnings. The Bosnian government is almost certainly not caring for these buildings and there’s no guaranteeing the structural integrity of any of these buildings.
As you’re walking from the bus station towards the Old Town, you’ll likely pass the old mosque and the Muslim graveyard. Note that nearly every single gravestone you’ll see was erected in 1993. Seeing this mass of gravestones with lives lost too young was one of most heartbreaking moments of my entire trip.
Sarajevo
The abandoned Olympic bobsled track
Sarajevo hosted the winter games on behalf of Yugoslavia in 1984. Less than 10 years later, the city would be under siege on all sides by Serbian forces. The siege would last 44 months – nearly four years – and claim the lives of tens of thousands.
What happened in Sarajevo was a little different than Mostar. Bosniaks, Croats, and yes, Serbs, were all trapped together – everyone who refused to leave the city they loved and grew up in was stuck. As such, the city feels a little more integrated and cohesive than Mostar, a city where I felt a faint but live wire of tension coursing through.
It’s sad to see this place so truly abandoned. What was once a place of national pride, patriotism, hope, and celebration of human endurance is now just a mostly-forgotten chute of concrete in the middle of the forest. At the same time, I find some sort of comfort to the way the forest is reclaiming this bobsled track. Moss is growing over the cement on the sides of the track, as if saying, in time, nature will cover all the blemishes men have left behind.
To get to the Olympic bobsled, it’s best to take a cab or a tour — unless the weather is nice and you fancy a 2 or 2.5 hour hike. I took a semi-private tour (with one other traveler) of the bobsled and the Tunnel of Hope for 25 euros organized by my hostel.
Tunnel of Hope
During the siege of Sarajevo, thousands of Bosnians dug a tunnel in order to obtain necessary items: food, arms, and of course – this being Eastern Europe – cigarettes. It’s located near the Sarajevo airport, and you’ll need to take a cab or a guided tour in order to reach it. The tunnel connected the besieged city of Sarajevo with Bosnian-held territory on the other side of the airport. Thousands of tons of goods entered the city this way, and it also allowed hundreds of thousands of Bosnians to flee the city. Because the tunnel goes directly under the airport, there’s not much of it that you’re allowed to traverse. However, you can tour a portion of the original tunnel as well as see videos and other information about its construction at the Sarajevo Tunnel Museum.
Sarajevo Roses
A macabre art installation of sorts, Sarajevo Roses are the literal scars that the ground bears from mortar shell explosions. Artists painted these wounds blood red to symbolize and memorialize the life lost in that spot. You can see one nearby Susan Sontag Square and another at the Tunnel of Hope museum, and there are many more scattered throughout the city. On average, 330 shells exploded in Sarajevo per day over their nearly 4-year-long siege, leading to these scars all over the city. They are slowly being replaced over time. I suppose part of this is the healing process, but another part of me hopes that they keep them to honor the lives lost by people who were too proud of their beautiful city to leave it and lost their lives defending and living in the place they loved. Remembering is the least we can do.
A few notes to understand:
– Bosnian refers to any citizen of Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bosniaks are an ethnic group within Bosnia, distinct from Serbs, Croats, and other much smaller minority groups (Romani, Albanian, and Montenegrin) who also live in Bosnia. Bosniaks are traditionally Muslim. Bosniaks were victims of genocide by Serbian forces during the wars of the early 1990s. For far more eloquent and detailed information than I can relay on this blog post, please please please go to the Gallery 11/07/95 in downtown Sarajevo to learn what happened to the victims of Srebrenica and other sites spread throughout Bosnia.
– The country is officially known as Bosnia and Herzegovina but I’ve called it Bosnia for short. Bosnia and Herzegovina are two historical regions that form one federation. There is also a separate semi-autonomous region of Bosnia, called Republika Srpska, which is majority Serb. If that wasn’t confusing enough, there are three presidents and 13 prime ministers, officially making Bosnia the most confusingly-governed nation in the world.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
If you’re feeling stuck in a rut with limited vacation time and a bucket list a mile long, I’ve got news for you. It doesn’t have to be that way.
There are countless ways to travel and live abroad — from working holiday visas to teaching English online. For many, freelancing is the ultimate goal, as it gives you total location independence. However, one of the most difficult things about becoming a freelancer is finding work. Luckily, there are digital freelance agencies out there who will make that a little easier for you.
I personally use Upwork to find editing, proofreading, and copywriting gigs. I’ll admit, some months are better than others, but in general, this makes it possible for me to finance long-term travel around the world and only withdraw minimal savings. I worked as a teacher for five years and lived frugally, so I have money stashed away to spend as well.
There are so many cheap destinations around the world to live or travel in that are perfect for the digital nomad. It’s quite possible to live or in many parts of the world off of an average of $30 a day, or $900 a month. In some parts, especially Southeast Asia, you can live on even half of that!
So, how much do I work? On average, I work about 10 hours per week from anywhere in the world I want. I no longer seek new clients, as this is definitely a big time investment. Since I love my current clients and my workload is really manageable, I haven’t felt the need to scale up, especially since this blog still takes a lot of time.
One day, my goal is to be able to monetize this travel blog, but this keeps me covered in the meantime. I also have savings which supplement my earnings, so in the event I don’t cover all my costs through freelancing, I have a cushion.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
There’s nothing I like more than traveling around colorful cities and neighborhoods teeming with bright hues. I’m usually already wide-eyed and thrilled to be traveling somewhere new. Add bursts of color in unexpected places and I suddenly find myself inspired and dare I say, even a little giddy?pin
Since I’m always adding to my ridiculously never-ending list of places I want to travel, I figured the best people to ask were travel bloggers. The enthusiastic response surprised even me – they contributed 30 different colorful cities and neighborhoods around the world, from Ireland to South Africa to the US to Argentina. Here they are below – followed by two of my personal favorites, including one that’s sure to surprise you!
Penang Island (Malaysia) and especially George Town is rich with history, colorful details, and inspiring places. It’s a place where your walk around can be turned into never-ending discovery trail. For example, this colorful buildings complex I found by accident in Jalan Kek Chuan. I was just walking around and searching for the murals (Penang is also famous for the street art projects). There is not much story behind these buildings, only that the street name was given after Lim Kek Chuan, the co-founder and first President of the Penang Chinese Chamber of Commerce, who owned 17 shop houses along this road in the 20th century. And the new picturesque look is a result of building restoration. Now in this place known as Kau Keng Choo, you can find cozy restaurants, coffee shops, and other stores. Inspired? Check out how to get to Penang Island.
Strasbourg is in the breathtaking Alsace region of France and its ties with Germany are palpable. This city is both medieval and modern in some very interesting ways. The houses are your typical fairy tale houses of many different colors. Strasbourg is a series of twisting and turning cobble-stoned alleys with crooked half-timbered houses, with geraniums cascading from the window boxes. It is hard to go past the magnificence of the Gothic cathedral that dominates the city. Here in the Cathedral Square, The Notre Dame reins supreme, surrounded by more stunning houses and an amazing old gothic house that is now the restaurant, Maison Kammerzell. You will see street artists and performers and tourists aplenty. People come here for a reason – the city is beautiful.
Formerly known as the Malay Quarter, the brightly colored neighborhood of Bo Kaap is home the majority of Cape Town’s Malayan population. Many of the residents of Bo Kaap are descendants of slaves from Southeast Asia, Africa and the Indian Subcontinent. These slaves were brought to the Cape by the Dutch East India Company in the 1600s and have established a community that is as culturally diverse as it is colorful. The population of Bo Kaap is predominantly Muslim, which is reflected in the many minarets scattered throughout the neighborhood.
The bright colors of Bo Kaap were introduced to the neighborhood after Apartheid in the 1990s. The vibrant hues intended to bring joy to the residents of the neighborhood during the celebration of Eid and have since evolved into a cornerstone of the area’s identity. The Bo Kaap neighborhood sits at the foot of Signal Hill. The town’s mountainous backdrop creates a dramatic backdrop to the beautiful rows of multi-colored houses.
Many people see the bright buildings that make up Bo-Kaap in Cape Town, but just right down the street is another vibrant neighborhood – Woodstock! Woodstock was known for its high crime and drugs a few years back, but is now going through a bit of urban revival and gentrification. Everywhere you look there are bright buildings, street art, fantastic coffee shops, and trendy restaurants. A day tour around Woodstock should definitely not be missed while in Cape Town.
When planning my current trip across Europe, there was only one destination I knew I had to pass through. Annecy, a small town in France right next to the Swiss border, has always fascinated me. To be found on every European bucket list out there, this picturesque town is one of the most colorful you will ever visit. There are hanging baskets and flowers lining every street, all the buildings are painted in a variety of pastel colors, and the town’s location on the beautiful Lake Annecy simply adds to its charm.
In West London, you can find the adorable little district of Notting Hill. Notting Hill is quite a famous neighborhood, known for being the setting of the Hugh Grant/Julia Roberts blockbuster and also the location of the crazy, annual Notting Hill Carnival. Notting Hill Carnival originated from race riots in the 1960s, when the district was far from the affluent area that it is now (an apartment in Notting Hill nowadays will set you back £3,246 per month on average).
In the center of Notting Hill you can find Portobello Road, home to Portobello Market, which just celebrated its 150th birthday! Portobello Road is undeniably one of the most photogenic spots in London, boasting long miles of beautiful terraced streets of pastel-colored houses. At the market, which open each and every day of the week, you can buy all sorts of things: from antique trinkets and furniture to edgy vintage clothes and accessories that will have all your friends back home jealous. I love visiting the market and buying a whole load homemade jewelry before kicking back and relaxing at one of the many old traditional London pubs that are dotted down the street. My favorite thing about Notting Hill, though, is just how damned pretty it is!
The historic medina of Chefchaouen, with its hashish hustlers and sea of blue lanes and houses, is unlike anywhere else in the world. This little city set among the rocky Rif Mountains has had a history almost as colorful as its buildings. Chefchaouen was founded in the 15th century as a fort designed to thwart Portuguese invaders and was also ruled over by the Spanish for half a century in the 1900s. Today it’s a popular tourist spot, largely thanks to its proximity to Tangier (and therefore Europe) as well as its unique monochromatic color scheme.
Burano, Italy is a small, charming island located in the Venetian Lagoon just 40 minutes by ferry from Venice. The houses in this colorful fishing town are almost identical on the interior, but the exteriors set them apart with their unique hues. According to legend, fishermen painted their houses in vibrant colors so they could find them in the early morning fog. However, some say it was to help the men find their way home after a drunken night at the pub! Which do you believe?
Legends withstanding or not, the color scheme in Burano is so carefully planned that if anyone wants to change the color of their home they have to ask the government for permission. Once permission is granted, the homeowner will be given a list of acceptable colors to choose from. No matter how the colors are chosen, Burano is stunning and no trip to Venice, or Northern Italy for that matter, would be complete with popping by for a visit.
The brightly-colored colonial architecture that can be found all over Havana, Cuba, is one of my favorite things about the city. It’s one of the things that brings out the vibrant and tropical feel of Havana, even in a time when many of Havana’s older Art Deco-style buildings are beginning to crumble.
The art deco movement was alive and well in Havana in the early 1900s when the city was flourishing, which led to many unique elements to the architecture that still remains today in Havana, including the use of bright colors, like florescent yellow, green and blue. Like other Caribbean cities, Havana’s colorful facades truly define its character.
The sleepy city of Oaxaca represents everything that is amazing about Mexico. Typically colorful buildings line the streets, creating a festive spirit all year round. Cobbled and paved streets all seem to lead to magnificent Spanish churches, the town square or buzzing markets, while street vendors sell everything from fried grasshoppers to world class chocolate.
Oaxaca is the food and creative heart of Mexico, with almost all of the traditional souvenirs sold throughout the country made in the tiny surrounding villages. And any town with a whole street dedicated to chocolate is worth a visit as well!
Somewhat less colorful but equally as impressive are the Monte Alban ruins high in the mountains overlooking Oaxaca. The icing on the cake, as it were, in making Oaxaca the place that gives you the best of Mexico in one small and bright package.
Italy is known for many iconic landmarks, but Cinque Terre is easily one of its most enchanting. Located along the Italian Riviera, it’s a collection of five (cinque) seaside fishing villages that look like they came straight from a fairy tale – each unique in its own way. The vibrant, pastel-colored houses and vineyards are built into the side of the rocky coastline.
A protected UNESCO World Heritage Site, Cinque Terre has become a popular tourist destination. With no cars in sight, you’re able to peacefully explore the villages, appreciate the architecture, and enjoy the beautiful coastal scenery. A 12km hiking trail connects the villages and offers unrivaled views of the Riviera.
Cinque Terre has it all: beautiful beaches, traditional Italian culture, great local food (don’t forget to try the pesto!) and wine, several hiking trails, and great scenery. After a few days – it’s hard to leave!
With a history almost as colorful as the houses and shops that make up this suburb of Buenos Aires, La Boca is like the proverbial car accident. A place that is so obviously geared toward the tourist, and yet you can’t help but keep looking.
Regarded as the home of the tango and a place that was born as a home to poor migrants, La Boca is now on the hitlist of almost everyone who visits the Argentine capital. When you get past the tour sellers, the tango dancers asking for payment for a photo and the waiters doing the hard sell to get you to eat in their restaurant, you will discover an experience that is quite hypnotic.
A kaleidoscope of color, faded in many places, beckons you to look a little deeper. Small side alleys draw you in with quirky artwork and souvenir stalls. And towering over the area like a guardian is the impressive La Bombanera, one of the world’s most famous football stadiums. Just because it is touristy should never mean it is to be avoided. Go to La Boca with the awareness of an adult but the eyes of a child, you will feel as well as see the town.
Zamosc is a small town located in eastern Poland, close to the border with Ukraine. Its old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, called the Padua of the North or the Pearl of Renaissance. It is one of the few well-preserved places like this in Europe.
We absolutely loved it! The tenement houses that surround the Town Square are colorful and picturesque. The monuments that we liked the most are Armenian Houses: green, yellow, red, and blue buildings located right next to the Town Hall.
Zamosc is a hidden gem of Europe, still not many tourists know about it. We are pretty sure it will change soon. A beautiful town like this can’t remain unpopular for too long!
Set in the Amalfi Coast in Southern Italy, Positano is a captivating cliff-side town with pastel-colored houses that cascade down the Mediterranean Sea. This postcard perfect town is not only beautiful from afar. It’s a great place to wander around with its narrow winding lanes and steep staircases that takes you along cozy cafés, charming hotels and fancy restaurants. To end the day, go all the way down by the beach or find a quiet spot uphill to watch the sunset.
Jazz, Bourbon Street, Po’ Boys – there is no denying that New Orleans is a colorful city. But what really make this destination pop is the brightly colored wooden houses in likes of the Marigny neighbourhood. There is no rhyme nor reason to the colors picked to decorate what would be bland brown housing. You’ll see bright blues next to shocking pink and mellow yellows next to turquoise green.
Many of these shotgun houses are occupied by very colorful residents too! It has been suggested that the colors chosen are keeping in line with the annual explosion of color that is Mardi Gras New Orleans! Gawking at the colorful houses is just one of the cool things to do in hot New Orleans!
San Cristobal de las Casas is a quaint, colorful town located in a mountainous region of the Mexican state of Chiapas. Home to several indigenous groups who are descendants of the Mayans, the town of San Cristobal is a mix of both past and present. Its historical center consists of beautiful churches built in Spanish colonial times; however, if you walk down the small alleys you’ll find modern cafes serving tapas, chai tea and locally sourced red wine, to complement the cool climate up in the mountains. The town is always full of color, whether it’s the painted shopfronts, the flags that line the streets or the colorful traditional wear of the indigenous inhabitants. That color is what has attracted many people to this lovely little town, including a community of hippies, which is why you’ll find hemp clothes and vegan pizza on offer.
I love Paris! It’s one of my favorite cities in the world. The buildings that are so uniquely French draw me in each time. I could look at their uniform structures with their second and fifth floor wrought iron balconies and the slate colored, flat roofed attics for hours. However, one attribute they decidedly lack is color. In keeping with tradition, all Hausmannian buildings are sandstone colored.
This is why the wonderful little street of Rue Crémieux stands out and is known as the most colorful street in Paris. Seemingly a world away from Paris, this small cobbled street in the 12th arrondissement is home to some of the cutest houses. Glancing down the street, pastel colors of blue, green yellow and purple will immediately catch your eye. As you walk to get a closer look, the murals of trees look so real that you’d swear they were real plants climbing their way up to the roof. Or you will think you’re surrounded by cats, with both the real and painted variety featuring heavily here. A short walk from Gare de Lyon train station, this once seedy area has now been brought alive with a pop of color.
While the Painted Ladies and the Golden Gate Bridge are San Francisco’s most famous colorful icons, the whole city is filled with unexpected bursts of color. You can discover entire blocks of pastel houses, mismatched garage doors, and hand painted mail boxes. You can wander street art alleys for hours and discover colorful mosaics and parks just about anywhere.
San Francisco can feel more like a cluster of eclectic neighborhoods if you do it right, so ditch the dull downtown and experience all the colorful and unique things to do in San Francisco.
Galway City, no matter the season, no matter the weather, is a charming, warm place to be. What I love most about Galway is that strolling through its cobble-stoned streets is like stepping back in time and this is all aided by its colorful shopfronts and bars.
Even on the wettest of days, Galway just has a buzz about it and I think that’s what captivates all who visit. While there, be sure to stroll among its beautiful, picturesque streets, be sure to enjoy a pint of Guinness and be sure to catch some live, traditional Irish music once the sun goes down.
Bushwick is one of the most colorful neighborhoods in New York City. Its gentrification started over 3 years ago, and it has changed a lot. The neighborhood has its own vibe. Streets are full of bars, small restaurants, and coffee shops. The Bushwick Collective has decorated the streets with different graffiti over the last years, giving the neighborhood its own identity.
As you cross the many bridges along the River Onyar, you cannot help but notice the brightly painted facades of the houses lining up and down both sides. Girona, Spain is a must visit if you’re looking for a quaint ancient town (over 2,000 years old!) with narrow medieval alleys and cobblestone roads.
This town is also a must visit for all Game of Thrones fans as you will recognize many of the landmarks in several episodes, including the wide Catedral de Girona.
Barcelona is a vibrant city with colorful and unique architecture. Antoni Gaudí is the most famous architect in Barcelona and you will see his work all around the city. Sagrada Familia, Casa Milà, Casa Batlló and Palau Güell are some of the buildings designed by Gaudí. His work is a combination of vibrant colors and interesting shapes.
Park Güell is known as one of Gaudí’s most colorful works. Inside the park, you can find colorful buildings and sculptures and also admire Gaudí’s amazing tile work. An icon of the park is a colorful mosaic lizard. At the top of the park there is an area where you get an amazing view of the whole city.
Sibiu in Transylvania was an impromptu stop on our way to Bran. The sun was shining and we had been driving for hours but it was just too nice of a day to waste on the road. A quick detour took us into a maze of golden-tinged streets lined with colorful buildings painted in a myriad of green, blue, and orange shades. The edifices were topped with weathered terra cotta colored roofs with attic windows that looked like eyes peeping out from under suspicious brows. We instantly fell for Sibiu’s charms and bathed in its warm glow as we wandered its characterful streets.
Roussillon is a wonderful village in Provence, France. During the 19th century, Roussillon was once a mining town that mined for the ochre pigmentation found in the cliffs nearby. The same ochre pigmentation was used to paint the village, resulting in the beautiful pinkish-brown color on the houses.
But that’s not the only color you’ll see because you’ll also discover other delightful colors such as blue, green, yellow or red that’s used to accentuate a door or a window panel. Interestingly, one of the old ochre mines known as “Les Sentier Des Ocres” can be visited, which is the best way to understand Roussillon’s history.
Willemstad–the capital of Curacao and a UNESCO World Heritage Site–features buildings painted in bright Caribbean colors. All are constructed with coral stone, sea water, and sea sand, and they are re-painted once every year just before Christmas.
If your travel plans include a visit to Medellin, Colombia, then you can’t miss a side trip to whimsical Guatapé. The town has grown into a popular day trip for locals and tourists. There, you can find people taking the zipline over the lake, enjoying food prepared on outdoor grills, or shopping one of the many lakeside hawker stands. Perhaps because it has become a local’s playground is one reason for the brightly colored building adorned with tiles depicting local themes.
The whole places seems to encourage its visitors not to take things too seriously and sit back and enjoy, perhaps with a nice cold michelada (beer mixed with fresh lime juice). But the biggest draw of the area is the unusual “Piedra del Peño” or “Rock of Peñol.” The massive rock seems to jut out of nowhere. There are two stairways installed into thecrevice in the rocks center that appear to lace it together. A trip up the 659 steps to the top is well rewarded with a spectacular view of the valley.
The slogan for the wonderful multicultural island in the Dutch Antilles just off the coast of Venezuela is “one happy island”… Why are they so happy?! The sun shines all year long… and with the sunshine comes the joy of colur… that cerulean sky and turquoise sea are the perfect back drop to baby pink bars, sunshine yellow churches perched high on cliffs, and crimson striped lighthouses popping off the clouds.
Natural pools, golden sandy beaches you can just stop at and paddle your toes in the balmy clear sea… but most of all it’s the people: “one happy island” full of happy happy people! I’ll be back there in March to get my happy on!
Poznan is a bit off the beaten path when it comes to the most famous Polish cities, but it is a lovely vibrant student city with never-ending energy and a hipster vibe. Located close to both Berlin and Warsaw, Poznan has the modern influence of the German capital and the authentic historic feeling that most Polish cities have. Its main square called Stary Rynek is lined up with colorful houses and is naturally the heart of the city. These buildings were once merchants’ houses and the central square was used as a market for trading.
Today the first floors of the colorful buildings are occupied by traditional restaurants, cafes and bars. They look so similar that you can easily get confused at which corner of the square you are. In the winter the Old Market hosts a Christmas bazaar with lot of people drinking mulled wine or eating the famous Polish ginger bread cookies called “pierniki.”
The old town is famous for its cheerful yellow painted walls and the old style wooden doors. I especially enjoyed the sleepy atmosphere before 8am, when most of the shops were still closed and only few tourists populated the road. I recommend a visit to the Reaching Out Teahouse where speaking and hearing impaired people work. It’s a place of peace and tranquillity, which one should treat oneself to after all the rush while traveling. During the night you can delight in the brightly illuminated, colorful lanterns that hang in front of every house. If that is not enough to convince you, the city is famous for its tailored-made cheap evening dresses!
South Bridge Road is a major road in the heart of Chinatown, close to the central region in Singapore. The road, build by convict laborers in the 18th century, links the city center to the harbor and became an important road for the thriving import and export business. Shophouses here are one of the oldest, tracing back to China where early immigrants of Singapore came from. They serve to facilitate trade activities along South Bridge Road, also near the Singapore River.
Over the years, shophouses in Singapore developed varying styles due to multicultural influences. Peranakan decorative tiles, Chinese decorative elements and Art Deco motifs were incorporated into Shanghai, Rococo, Baroque, Malay and Neoclassical styles. Many today are strictly conserved, while others have been converted to cafes, temples, dining spaces, herbal and medicinal shops, offices and even boutique hotels one can check into for a ‘vintage’ lifestyle experience.
Here are two of my personal favorites!
San Juan, Puerto Rico
Old San Juan is known for its candy-colored old colonial houses. Its a tiny, easily walkable center with lovely colorful houses everywhere you go. Everyone from locals to cruise ship tourists can’t help but stop and marvel at these beauties. Old San Juan was originally settled back in 1521… technically, the oldest settlement in the U.S.! Hungry for more? Check out this photo essay of Old San Juan.
Novi Sad, Serbia
When you think of riotously colorful buildings, your mind most likely doesn’t go to former Yugoslavia. Communism and bright colors typically don’t go hand in hand. Well, wrong! Novi Sad, Serbia is like an artist’s palette, filled with rainbow-hued architecture and pastel-painted storefronts. All over the Old Town, you’ll find a gorgeous array of buildings in every color, like these bars and restaurants close to Danube Park. Who knew?
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
We are walking to the abandoned sniper tower in the center of Mostar when she says it.
“I love how Christians and Muslims live in peace here,” she said. My mouth almost dropped open. Does she even know what happened here?
Later, she takes selfies while leaning on a ledge that guns rested on around the clock as Serbs and Croats picked off Muslim Bosniaks back in 1993.
***
For me, 1993 is the year when my sister was born. It was the year I became obsessed with the Jungle Book, fancying myself a young female Mowgli, turning over stones looking for grubs. It was the year I tried and promptly failed out of ballet.
But in the Balkans, 1993 was the year that brothers, fathers, and sons all turned to dust. And nowhere is this more clear than in Mostar, war ravaged and pockmarked from shells even decades later.
It was the year that people who had been living together, if not in peace at least in détente, suddenly all turned on one another.
It was the year their neighbors took to the hollowed out shell of Ljubljanska Bank to shoot them, carelessly, as if for sport. Like beer cans set up at a home shooting range.
***
Sitting in the graveyard of the mosque on the Muslim side of Mostar, I’m surrounded by gravestones, all erected in 1993. By now, I know the numbers of the war; I know that almost 2,000 people – nearly all men and boys – met their end in the Mostar siege in that year; I know that over 8,000 died in Srebrenica; I know that almost 100,000 people died overall in these terrible years; I know that tens of thousands of Bosniak women were kidnapped, tortured, and raped as a means of ethnic cleansing.
But even surrounded by these stark reminders of all the lives lost in 1993, none of these facts feel like anything. At least, it doesn’t until I see an old man with his head buried in his hands. Even not seeing his face, I can tell. Sadness is present in the grip of his fingers on his temples, the curve of his spine, the way his shoulders tremble. Without asking, without having to ask, I realize he must be the father of one of these gravestones.
And I shatter inside. Sometimes the only number that matters is one.
***
Leaving the sniper tower, I exist in a kind of a daze. How many snipers had laid in wait where I walked? How many lives were taken on this very block?
As I cross the Old Bridge (a misnomer, as it was bombed to pieces in 1993, effectively herding up all the Muslim Bosniaks for easier picking off, and only rebuilt in 2004) I am filled with a sudden, irrational anger with all the tourists around me. I scowl at someone buying a cheap magnet. A tour group parade squeezes through the souvenir shops, looking more at their selfie sticks than their surroundings. I want to shake them by the shoulders, shout at them: don’t you know what happened here? Don’t you care about what the war did to Mostar?
But of course, I am here. Don’t I know what happened? Don’t I care? Am I really any better? Me, this tragedy tourist? By not buying that god awful magnet, by not putting money in the pocket of someone who lived through those terrible times, how am I really any better?
***
Some of Mostar has scarred over. Some wounds are still open: bombed-out buildings left standing even 23 years later, moreso on the Bosniak side of the river. They look like the smile of someone missing half their teeth.
But to paint a picture of Mostar as nothing more than a war-ravaged shell is unfair to the city and even moreso to its citizens. Bosnians are tough. The Sarajevo Film Festival began in 1993, while Sarajevo was under siege – no food, no running water, no electricity – just backup generators and the willpower not to let the war run their lives. In short, the people of Bosnia are resilient. They have passions, desires, dreams, stories. They are not just victims.
They drink strong Bosnian coffee overlooking Stari Most. They play backgammon and chat with their friends. They laugh over massive quantities of grilled meat. They smile with bemusement at the outsiders who come to visit their city. They share massive 2 liter bottles of beer with their friends on the banks of the river. They gather each year to watch the artful arcs of the cliff diving champions twisting and tucking as they dive off the famous Mostar bridge. They drink rakija and dance into the evenings; like us, they love, laugh, and dream.
Mostar may be a city built on a graveyard, but it is not a ghost.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
The Albanian Riviera very well may be the most underrated summer vacation spot in Europe. From its cheap, delicious seafood to its friendly locals and stunning beaches, I was wondering: why the hell had no one told me about how amazing Albanian beaches are?
I almost don’t want to spoil the secret of the Albanian Riviera and just how amazing it is… but I can’t keep these beaches in Albania to myself. Albania is a country which has so much potential for tourism, yet people seem to be blinded either by ignorance or by stereotypes from enjoying just how beautiful the country is.
I visited two years ago and was blown away by how spacious and beautiful the beaches were, even in peak summer season. But who knows how long things will remain this way? Tourism by Albania’s seaside is growing quickly – go now, before everyone else does and turns it into another Croatia or Montenegro.
Picking Your Home Base on the Albanian Riviera
You have quite a few choices when it comes to deciding where to stay on the Albanian Riviera, depending on your budget, comfort level, and the number of amenities you want around you.
For me, Himarë (Himara) is the Goldilocks home base: not too big, not too small, not too basic, not too flashy. This is where I based myself during my time in the Albanian Riviera and I found it perfect.
A virtually private beach near Himara
If you want a little more upscale, try Dhërmi, which is as close to luxury as you’ll find in Albania (though I can safely say you won’t find any 5-star resorts here). For more bare bones accommodation, try the tiny village of Vuno.
If you really want to really rough it, you can camp on the beach in Himara, Gjipe, Livadhi, and I’m sure at plenty of other amazing Albanian beaches right along the Albanian Riviera. Wild camping is permitted in much of Albania, and there are several “hostels” that provide tents and campground amenities for a cheap price, so you have a lot of options.
Saranda is another popular place due to its proximity to Ksamil beach, but honestly – I think Saranda’s a bit overrated, and I much prefer the Albanian beaches an hour north or so. You can also go up north to the area around Vlora beach, but in my opinion, the best parts are in the stretch between Himara and Dhermi.
Gjipe Beach: Blissfully free of cruise ships and fanny packs… for now
Himara
This sleepy little seaside town is my top pick for a base when visiting the Albanian Riviera.
It has it all: central location, a fantastic hostel, and delicious food. I’m talking the best pork gyro I’ve had in my life, which is not a crown I bestow lightly, right next to the best gelato I’ve had outside of Italy, where you can get a scoop for a mere 50 lek (about 35 cents).
The beach in Himara proper can be a bit crowded (for Albania) but for the convenience to beauty ratio, it does the trip. If you walk along towards the south end of the beach, it gets less and less crowded and you can find a secret beach – but more on that later. All in all, Himara is one of the best places to visit on Albania’s coastline.
Where to Stay in Himara
For a hotel, I recommend Margarita Guesthouse (9.2 rating on Booking.com): Comfortable rooms, breakfast included, excellent hospitality, and stunning sea views – this would be my top choice for where to stay in Himara, and it’s quite affordable as well.
For an apartment, I recommend Ionian View (9.1 rating on Booking.com): Affordable apartments with kitchenettes, balconies and terraces overlooking the sea, and an on-site bar, plus rave reviews for the host. Affordable prices.
For a hostel, I stayed at and highly recommend Himara Downtown hostel (8.8 rating on Hostelworld): Amazing and super kind staff, great outdoor garden and socializing area, a combination of private and shared rooms, and excellent free breakfast every morning.
Himara from above – not too shabby.
Vuno
If you really want to get off the beaten path, check out even sleepier Vuno. This village is nestled in the hills, so there’s no easy beach walk, but you’re close to some great choices, with Jale Beach and Gjipe Beach on each side of you.
Where to Stay in Vuno
There’s just one hostel here, and it comes highly recommended by Tomi from SR Backpackers, the great hostel I stayed at in Saranda. However, I didn’t stay at it so I can’t speak for it personally. It’s called Shkolla Vuno (8.7 rating on HostelWorld) and is located in a former school building.
Dhermi
I chose not to stay near Dhermi beach because I heard from locals that it’s a little more upscale and expensive than the rest of the Albanian Riviera.
However, like I said above, “upscale” is relative. Don’t expect crazy luxury to be available; however, you will find plenty of nice restaurants and shops, and you’ll have more choices when it comes to accommodations.
Where to Stay in Dhermi
For a hotel, choose Royal Blue Hotel (8.8 rating on Booking.com). Right in front of the beach, next to amazing restaurants and has a great in-house seafood restaurant, sea views, and great staff are the reasons this is one of the most-loved properties in Dhermi.
There are no hostels to my knowledge in Dhermi, but Villa Blue Drimadhes (8.5 rating on Booking.com) is the best budget offer. If you’re backpacking in the Albanian Riviera, I’d recommend staying at one of the hostels in Himara or Vuno instead.
The Top Must-Visit Albanian Beaches
Gjipe Beach
The hike is worth it with views like this!
This is easily one of my favorite beaches of all time, let alone of Albania. However, it doesn’t come easily. It’s a 3-kilometer hike down to the beach, and it’s worth every bead of sweat.
The views going down the hills make the perfectly lukewarm water that much sweeter. Once you arrive there, the water is crystal clear – you can see what seems like 30 feet to the bottom. There’s an awesome network of caves you can explore too, if you swim to your left if you are facing the beach. I’m not a great swimmer and am terrified of getting stuck in a cave in the water… but my friends were really enjoying this.
You can also camp on the beach if you want. They provide the tents and mattress pads. Friends who did the camping spoke highly about it, so an overnight here is a must-do when I return to this beautiful part of the world. Just be aware that you’ll have to bring all your stuff up and back the giant hill, which can be really rough in the heat. I’d recommend avoiding mid-day if you choose to do this hike with all your stuff!
Himara Beach
A ride in a flying death trap can be yours for only 50 euros!
This is not only a great home base but also just an all-around great beach. The main beach near the town center can get a bit crowded, but walk even just 15 minutes to the south end of the beach and you’ll have it almost all to yourself.
If you’re a daredevil with 50 euros burning a hole in your pocket, you can pay a guy to fly you in a boat/plane contraption all along the coast of the Albanian Riviera. It’s just as odd as it sounds, and I’d be curious if any brave souls have taken the journey! I took a pass.
Livadhi Beach
Besides the main beach in Himara, this is the closest one to town (except for the hidden beach of Himara, which I’ve saved for the end!). You can get there by foot, which takes about 30-4o minutes, depending on how fast you walk and how often you stop for photos.
It’s popular with locals, so it can be a bit crowded in the peak season, but it’s still one of my favorite beaches in the Albanian Riviera. There are beach bars, restaurants, and lounge chairs and umbrellas for rent, so it’s one of the best-equipped beaches.
It also has a camping grounds if you’d like to stay overnight here. If you prefer a more hotel-style option for accommodations on Livadhi beach, Scala Bungalows has excellent reviews and low prices.
Jala Beach
By Micimitro [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons
This beach is sometimes called “Glass Beach” for its crystal clear waters. Next after Livadhi, this is one of the closest beaches to Himara, and as such, it’s often a bit crowded. Though, again, this is Albania and crowded is relative! Even the most crowded Albanian beach (Ksamil) doesn’t come close to the crowdedness you’ll find in Croatia or Montenegro.
Jala Beach is also a common camping spot, with a campground you can rent a tent and foam mattress pad from. However, don’t expect a peaceful night’s sleep if you choose to camp here; it’s common to have people playing music, dancing, and chatting into the night.
While the party scene at night may not be what you’re after, Jale Beach is a great place to watch the sunset — just look at that sky!
Porto Palermo
By Pasztilla aka Attila Terbócs [CC BY-SA 4.0], from Wikimedia CommonsIf you want a side of castle with your beach, you’ve got to check out Porto Palermo. Located just a few kilometers south of Himara, this castle dates back to the times of Venetian rule in Albania, and was refurbished during the 19th century. During the communist regime, the fort served as a submarine base.
Now, its semi-abandoned state makes it a tourist curiosity, and its proximity to Himara make it a common day trip for travelers staying in Himara proper.
By Krzysztof Dudzik [CC BY-SA 3.0], from Wikimedia CommonsIt’s located on the bay of Porto Palermo, which has crystal clear waters the likes of which you’ll find all over the Albanian Riviera. Don’t be surprised if you share your beach with some curious goats, either – they tend to run around in these parts.
Borsh
By Decius [CC-BY-SA-3.0], via Wikimedia Commons Just a bit further south of Himara, Borsh is one of Albania’s best-loved beaches, partly for the fact that you can enjoy a castle and a beach in the same day (similar to Porto Palermo).
Borsh Castle is also known as Sopot Castle and used to be an acropolis in the Byzantine era and has been reconstructed several times. The subsequent Ottoman conquest added a mosque to the fortifications, which is the most visible feature of the castle now.
This beach doesn’t appear on any map, nor do I know its actual name, but it’s my favorite of all the great places on the Albanian coast. Getting here is not easy, which is why it’s so amazing. You have two options, one smart one and one stupid one. I’ll let you guess which one I did.
If you want to go by foot (the stupid way), walk to the southern edge of Himara beach and climb the hill. When you get to the restaurant gates, turn left off the dubious “path” edged with prickly bushes until you reach a rope to help you get down. This is not necessarily safe, nor do I have any better directions than this, so do so at your own risk.
The smart way: hire a boat for about 2000-2500 lek roundtrip ($15-20). All the boats were busy so, undeterred, I did the former. I managed it and I have the hand-eye coordination of a drunk toddler; your comfort level may vary.
To get to this….You’re gonna have to do this.
Getting Around the Albanian Riviera
This is Albania, a country that’s changing so quickly that anything I write is virtually outdated by the time I put a period on a sentence. Take my recommendations as a mere frame of reference, and confirm with your Albanian hosts once you’re here.
You won’t get far in Albania unless you’re willing to ask questions. People make a big deal about how difficult the transit here is; in my three weeks in the country, I found it really quite easy given that I was willing to ask for help. Luckily, Albanians love to help outsiders.
If you’re staying in Himara and you want to head north to Jala, Gjipe, Livadhi, or Dhërmi, you can hop on the coastal bus headed towards Vlora or Tirana, which leaves around 11 or 11:30. Again, ask any Albanian because this will have likely changed. A bus in the reverse direction tends to go by around 6; again, ask to confirm. If you want to go south, you’ll have to seek out a bus headed towards Saranda.
Buses will pick you up anywhere along the way, even if you’re just on the side of the highway, so don’t worry about trying to find bus stops. As long as you’re on the right road that they pass (which, considering there’s only really one road that constitutes the Albanian Riviera, is pretty easy) and you wave them down, you’ll get picked up.
The easiest way to get around would definitely be renting a car. I found the horror stories about the quality of Albanian roads to be overblown. The coastal road is well-paved and well-maintained, and while there are plenty of twists and turns, I think it would be fine for any confident driver. However, the rumor about Albanian drivers being a bit maniacal is pretty true. So if you choose to rent a car, make sure you’re properly insured and drive carefully, especially around turns.
If you don’t have a car rental and want to get to and from the best beaches in Albania, I recommend hitchhiking. It’s quite safe, extremely easy, and incredibly common. Albanians are really friendly and hospitable people, and even if they don’t speak much English, most will be more than happy to drop you off at your destination.
In my time hitching in the Albanian Riviera, I never waited more than five minutes for a ride. I was always traveling with someone from my hostel, which gave me an added sense of security. First-time hitchhiker? Check out these great hitchhiking tips from an experienced solo female hitchhiker.
So there you have it! Visit the Albanian beaches before the crowds and cruise ships do!
Note: This post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase something using one of these links, I will receive a small commission at no added cost to you.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Albania is a hidden gem that’s only now starting to get its rightful moment in the sun. Just north of Greece, Albania has a beautiful coast line with delightful pebbly beaches and some of the bluest waters you’ll see anywhere in Europe.
In fact, while the Albanian coastline is the same as Croatia’s and much of Greece’s, you’ll probably spend half or even a third of the price in Albania.
Albania’s coastline is home to some of the most stunning beaches in Europe, and one favorite with tourists is Ksamil Beach, near Saranda and Corfu.
A beautiful day at Ksamil Beach
Why Visit Ksamil Beach?
Ksamil Beach has most conveniently located beach in all of Albania, in my opinion, and it’s also incredibly beautiful. For one, Ksamil is very close to Saranda, which is the entryway to Albania to anyone coming from Greece. For another, Ksamil Beach is within a short drive of two different UNESCO heritage sites: Butrint and Gjirokastra. With all those different cities and UNESCO sites in close driving distance, there’s so much to be seen in this beautiful part of Albania.
However, I’ll be honest. Ksamil Beach is beautiful, but in my personal opinion, it isn’t the most beautiful beach in Albania. It can be a bit crowded with families, especially during the summer. So finding a little patch of beach on Ksamil to enjoy is kind of difficult. You’re better off swimming or taking a boat to one of the other islands rather than the part of Ksamil Beach that is part of the mainland.
For me, the honor of most beautiful beach goes to Gjipe Beach further up in the Albanian Riviera. However, Ksamil Beach is still incredibly lovely and definitely worth a visit — it’s just not my favorite beach in Albania.
Ksamil Beach also has some great restaurants serving super fresh seafood with Albanian and Italian touches. Whereas many of the beaches in Albania aren’t that developed, Ksamil has a pretty wide variety of restaurants and cafés to choose from on the beach. Plus, it offers chairs and umbrellas – not every beach in Albania does!
How to Get to Ksamil Beach
Even though transportation in Albania leaves something to be desired, Ksamil Beach is relatively well connected by public transportation. I personally took the bus and found it really easy to get around, even on my first day in Albania before I knew how everything worked.
Getting to Ksamil from Saranda
To get to Ksamil Beach, you’ll always want to start in the port city of Saranda. From there, it’s a simple 10-minute taxi (about $5 USD) or 30-minute bus ride (about 70 cents).
There are many bus stops scattered around the city. I recommend going to the first one, the one near the giant oak tree in the roundabout by the ferry (welcome to Albanian-style directions) so you can snag a seat. Trust me — they will pack those Albanian buses in a way that puts the Japanese metro to shame. In case you want more Google-able directions, it’s at the intersection of Rruga Mitat Hoxha and Rruga Jonianet. (Note: This was true as of the summer of 2016; however, directions in Albania frequently change so you probably want to ask your guesthouse to double check)
A bus ride will cost you 100 lek (less than $1 USD) and takes about 30 minutes to get to Ksamil Beach. Buses typically run every 1-2 hours, though, so be sure to ask someone as your guesthouse when it will arrive or you’ll be waiting a long time.
You can also take a taxi, which will cost you approximately $5-10 each way, depending on your luck and bargaining skills. This is a good option if you have a few people with you or if you don’t mind spending a little more money for less stress.
If you’re not already in Saranda, I’ll list a few of the most popular ways to get there below.
Getting to Saranda (Ksamil) from Corfu
If you’re in Greece and want to make your way to Albania, it couldn’t be easier to get there from Corfu. Simply go to the main port in Corfu Town and take the ferry. The ride takes about 1-1.5 hours, and it will cost you about $25-30 USD during peak season.
Crossing the border in Saranda is very easy and only takes a few minutes if you are one of the first people off the ferry. The border agents speak good English and you should have no problems getting into Albania given that you are eligible for a visa on arrival (for those nationalities who need a visa, check here). But if you have a Schengen visa for Greece, you will automatically be granted entry into Albania, so visiting couldn’t be easier.
A sunset on Corfu
Getting to Saranda (Ksamil) from Tirana or elsewhere in Albania
Saranda is about 6-8 hours away by bus or furgon (minibus) from Tirana, the only international airport in Albania. Buses leave a few times a day from various points within the city. I wish I could be more specific than that, but bus times change often and rapidly in Albania.
It’s also quite easy to get to Saranda from any point on the Albanian Riviera (Durres, Vlora, Dhermi, or Himara) if you are heading to Ksamil Beach from any point further north. Himara is about 2 hours away from Saranda; Dhermi, 2.5; Vlora, 3.5 or 4; Durres, 5. These are all rough estimates and will vary based on traffic and other factors.
How to Budget for Ksamil Beach
Ksamil Beach is slightly more expensive than other places in Albania; that said, it is still quite a bargain compared to other countries. Tourism in Albania is still in its early stages, and while Ksamil is more developed than most places, you’ll still enjoy lower prices.
For an average hotel room, expect to pay around $20-30 USD per night. A villa fitting about 4 people will cost more like $80 USD per night.
Food in Ksamil is also relatively cheap. A pasta will cost you between $3-5 USD, whereas a seafood plate will cost you around $5-10 USD depending on what you get. There are also various “fast food” options like gyros which will cost you much less, usually around one dollar. Alcohol in Ksamil is also quite cheap, costing around $1-2 per beverage, and even less if you’re brave enough to try rakia – the Albanian national spirit consisting of distilled grapes.
A delicious mussel and arugula pasta that cost less than $3 in Ksamil Beach
You may want to stay in Saranda where there are more hotel and restaurant options and transit to Ksamil during the day – it’s really up to you and what kind of holiday you prefer. I personally chose to stay in Saranda and do day trips from there.
Altogether, for two people splitting a room, your cost will be about $50 a day to live and eat lavishly — or $25 around per person. Not bad for a beach holiday!
What to Do in Ksamil
Ksamil is composed of a handful of islands and a few beaches on the mainland. The beaches connected to the mainland can be quite crowded during the peak summer season.
If you’d prefer a more secluded beach, you can either take a boat to one of the smaller islands or, if you’re a strong swimmer, it is possible to swim over. The distance isn’t that far. However, I’d recommend that you carry all your belongings in a dry bag as there is no access to lockers in Ksamil Beach, as far as I’m aware.
There isn’t much to do in Ksamil except swim and sunbathe. However, there are tons of day trips you can take easily and cheaply, such as visiting the Blue Eye (Syri I Kalter), the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Butrint, and the ancient “stone city” of Gjirokastra, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, if you want to go a little further afield.
The ruins of Butrint are very close to Ksamil Beach!
Butrint is definitely my top recommendation for a day trip from Ksamil Beach. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site that rightfully deserves the honor. It’s been ruled by Romans, Venetians, Byzantines, and Ottomans, all of whom have left their mark on Butrint. For being over 2,000 years old, it’s in great shape.
You can see a theatre, a baptistery with one of the world’s best-preserved mosaics, a basilica, and even ruins of an ancient suburb. The best part is that almost no one was there, even in the peak season (late August). I maybe saw 15 to 25 other tourists in the entire two hours I spent wandering the park. It’s also surrounded by a beautiful freshwater lake with crystal blue waters. Nature and history all in one… On a scale of one to life in prison, how illegal do you think it is to squat in a UNESCO site?
Lake Butrint has some of the most stunning water – almost as blue as Ksamil
Where to Stay in Ksamil
You can stay in one of the many hotels or handful of hostels in Saranda, or there are a few options in Ksamil Beach too if you want.
If you’re traveling solo, I recommend staying in Saranda. Stay at SR Backpackers, which is run by the wonderful Tomi – he will give you a crash course in the legend that is Albanian hospitality.
Upon hearing that the first few words out of my mouth were about Albanian food, he correctly ascertained that I was a little bit obsessed with food. That led to a promise from him to cook dinner for me the following night, and he treated me to delicious home-cooked pasta with a squid and tomato sauce. The night after that, he threw a beachside barbecue for the entire hostel, stuffing us full of pilaf, pork souvlaki, and shepherd salad, and only asking for the equivalent of a buck or two in return.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Little Lekeitio in the Basque country is one of my favorite hidden gems in all of Spain.
About an hour outside of the larger Basque cities of Bilbao and San Sebastián, this quiet town is home to not one but two of Spain’s loveliest beaches, and it’s a must if you’re doing a road trip in Spain, particularly in the Basque Country.
There’s not a ton going on in Lekeitio, but it has its charms. Lots of bars restaurants dot the main road on the way to the beach, specializing in Basque ciders, txakoli (young white wine), pintxos, and – of course – fresh seafood. There is a beautiful gothic church quite close the beach, with intriguing arches that look almost like the ribcage of a whale.
The impressive local church
As you walk past the cathedral, you’ll soon be gifted with views of Lekeitio’s first beach and its picturesque harbor. When I was in Lekeitio, it was in one the Basque country’s rare heat waves, so it seemed like everyone was on the beach. Granted, considering that July’s average high temperature is approximately 75F (24C), Lekeitio’s “heat wave” was more like my Californian’s idea of a pleasant sunny day.
This is Isuntza, the first beach you’ll see in Lekeitio
But as is often the case, walking a little further afield will reward you leaps and bounds. Walk past the beach and you’ll see this magical little vista open up, with turquoise water that seems more befitting the Caribbean or Southeast Asia than Northern Spain. As you walk towards the bridge, there’s an opportunity to walk down to a little rental shop, where you can rent a kayak or a stand-up paddle board. Looking back, I wish I had spent more time in Lekeitio, so I could have rented a kayak and explored this view even further.
Keep walking….But make sure you turn back to look at this view!
After walking maybe ten more minutes, you’ll arrive at Karraspio beach, which is the quieter and lovelier of the two, in my opinion. You have a perfect view of Lekeitio’s tiny San Nicolas Island, which is easily swimmable or even walkable during low tide.
Sandy toes and lovely views of San Nicolas Island
Besides having a lovely view of the small island, you’re also directly facing Lekeitio’s colorful harbor. You can also see the first beach clearly and even watch as people appear to walk on water on the small pathway leading them towards San Nicolas Island! Total Jesus vibes.
People walk on the pathway to San Nicolas IslandAnd when all this beauty gets to be too much….This being Basque country, pintxos are never far away.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
In honor of my short attention span and my rapidly filling one-terabyte hard drive, I bring to you a photo essay of 20 photos from last summer, taken in my one of my favorite travel destinations: Myanmar.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Pintxos (also written as pinchos in Spanish) is the Basque spin on Spanish tapas. Pintxo literally means “thorn” or “spike” and refers to the toothpick that customarily holds everything together, usually atop a slice of bread.
They are the quintessential bar snack and go perfectly with beer, wine, or cider. Txakoli (tx is pronounced like “ch” in Euskara, the Basque language, so it’s prounounced chakoli) is a young white wine with slight effervescence, and one of my favorite things to drink with pintxos.
Vino tinto, or red wine, is also quite delicious and usually comes from neighboring La Rioja (the subsection of Rioja Alavesa is actually part of Basque Country). A glass of wine will set you back a maximum of three euros – and likely less than two. Yes, Spain and the Basque Country are a lush’s dream.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
