For my trip around Central Asia, I used a variety of modes of transit: planes, trains, private transfers, and on two occasions, I did overland transfers. While my Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border crossing was memorably chaotic, the Kyrgyzstan-Kazakhstan border crossing was incredibly efficient and chill. In fact, I definitely recommend taking the bus from Bishkek to Almaty…
One of the main draws to Uzbekistan for many aesthetically inclined travelers — myself included — is its intricate tilework and mosaics in a monochrome rainbow of blues, ranging from pale turquoise to inky cobalt. All over the country, mosaics and tilework are an important point of national pride and identity. And perhaps nowhere is…
With its maze of streets interwoven in a compact city center that contains beautiful madrasah façades, artisans in the open-air bazaars (called toqis), and historic Silk Road structures, Bukhara lives up to every bit of hype. And while there are plenty of hotels inside Bukhara’s historic center, I loved staying at Duston Boutique Hotel just…
While most visitors to Bukhara will easily spend their entire time inside the city’s historic center, some of the city’s most interesting sights are actually outside the old walls. Though I definitely can’t speak ill of the city center of Bukhara, I have to say, the majority of my favorite sights laid outside the walls….
Big Almaty Lake used to be one of the easiest mountain escapes from Almaty. Sitting at 2,557 meters meters above sea level in the Trans-Ili Alatau Mountains, the lake’s surreal colors — ranging from milky blue to deep teal depending on the time of year — and dramatic mountain backdrop make it one of Kazakhstan’s…
When people think of day trips from Almaty, places like Big Almaty Lake, Kaindy Lake, and Charyn Canyon usually get all the love. But if you’re willing to endure an extremely early wake-up call, Altyn-Emel National Park offers some of the most unusual landscapes in Kazakhstan… with a tiny fraction of the crowds. I joined…
Nukus is often thought of as the gateway to the Aral Sea, but I think it’s a very intriguing destination in Uzbekistan in its own right. From its world-class Savitsky art museum to bustling bazaars, from its unique architectural style to its Karakalpak culture, Nukus offers a lot more than just being a waypoint between…
An eerily beautiful forest of submerged spruce rises out of electric turquoise and teal waters, making it hard to believe your eyes. This is Kaindy Lake, one of the most otherworldly sights in Kazakhstan: a country filled with natural wonders that look straight from another planet. Part of the Kolsay Lakes National Park, this beautiful…
For my nearly month-long trip around Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan (and a side quest into Tajikistan for a day), I did that will seem something pretty absurd to most people: I packed only one carry-on backpack. Over the decade I’ve spent travel blogging, I’ve been working to simplify my packing. That’s because I am a…
