Inside The W, the Funkiest Boutique Hotel in Vegas

There’s perhaps no city in the United States begging to be photographed as much as Las Vegas.

From its neon lights to its quirky sights, Vegas is Instagram gold. The whole time I was there, I saw so many insane photo opportunities that it was hard to even go anywhere without my camera glued to my face.

And there is no Vegas hotel that’s more true for than The W, a brand new boutique hotel within the larger SLS Hotel & Casino. Equal parts quirky and glamorous, The W combines tongue-in-cheek décor with luxury amenities for a picture perfect, 5 star Vegas experience.

A “hotel within a hotel,” The W is actually attached to the same building as the famous SLS Casino & Resort – but with a secret entrance away from the crowd. So secret, in fact, that most of our Uber drivers didn’t even know about it!

The best thing about this concept is that you have access to all the SLS amenities: their casino, their pool, their restaurants (I’ve heard ravings about Bazaar Meat, a steakhouse inside the SLS, but lacked the funds to see for myself) — while still having a more bespoke boutique hotel experience.

Whereas in the larger casino hotels you can easily feel like a cattle in a herd, The W pays impeccable attention to detail to make your experience feel personal: an important distinction in a city as capitalism-on-steroids as Vegas.

Every guest at The W has their own Insider – a concierge who tailors unique suggestions to your personal tastes. Taking advice from Romeo, our amazing Insider, was one of the best things we did in all of Vegas!

Per his recommendation, we ended up at the most unique and funky bar in Vegas, dancing the night away to 80s music videos projected on the wall, in the company of an off-brand Edward Scissorhands and a bunch of locals. It was an experience that was much more my style than one of the $16-for-a-Budweiser nightclubs littering the Strip.

Though with the gorgeous bar and lounge areas in The W proper, you’d be forgiven for never leaving the comforts of your hotel. Experienced bartenders will mix you up any cocktail you fancy or you can choose something from their specialty cocktail menu. Meanwhile, the design just begs to be photographed.

I mean, where else do you get a gold coin upon check in, good only for getting your fortune read?

The design of the rooms is delightfully quirky, with crossdresser-bedecked pillows, a wraparound chaise couch, and stunning Stratosphere views.

… Yes, I said crossdresser pillows!

The wallpaper has a funky Marie Antoinette meets Andy Warhol vibe… livened up by the peep-through shower which you can close with a simple curtain if you’re not feeling like giving the room a show.

As a guest of The W, you have access to their private pool club Wet, calmer by far than the pool at the SLS, which you can also access by showing your room card. As for what’s better, it really depends on what kind of pool experience you want.

I much preferred the quiet atmosphere and modern decor of Wet at The W, but if you’re into meeting other people and drinking in a pool all day, the SLS is your spot.

If you’re looking for something different than the faceless rooms of the big casino-hotel hybrids littering the Strip, I don’t think you can do any better than The W. Boutique customer service, quirky decor, and all the amenities of a big casino without the impersonal feel — I’d go back in a heartbeat.

Check out today’s best deals on The W

Note: I was a complimentary guest of The W in order to write this review. As always, all opinions are entirely my own.

10 Things I Learned About Myself After a Year of (Mostly) Solo Travel

When you’re your only travel companion, you can’t help but get a little introspective. Staring out of a bus window, half-listening to a podcast, contemplating my life and the many turns it’s taken to bring me here… That’s kind of been my default look the past year.

June 28th will make one year I’ve been on the road solo, with a few breaks and some travel with friends scattered in between. To celebrate making it through 12 months, here are 10 things I’ve learned about the wacky bitch who’s been keeping me company all of these days.

For an anxious person, I’m surprisingly unflappable

I know, it’s kind of an oxymoron, right? I’ve learned that my anxiety works on the macro scale. When I am unhappy with large aspects of my life – a job I’ve outgrown, a city I’ve grown tired of – I wake up in the mornings breathless and terrified. Those mornings I’d have to swallow a pill and breathe deeply to keep myself from escalating to full-on panic, just to go about my day.

But the little things that add up when you travel, I can take surprisingly in stride. Lost my luggage with precisely every item of clothing I own in it? Regroup, go to a diner for breakfast, and get tips on the best thrift stores in town. Stuck in a small village in Albania in the rain with no bus on the way? Guess I better start hitchhiking.

That said, hostel life often brings out the worst in me

I’m about to directly contradict myself — because above all, I’ve learned that I contradict myself regularly. To quote my boy Walt Whitman, Do I contradict myself? Very well then I contradict myself; (I am large, I contain multitudes.)

As much as I just congratulated myself for outrunning my anxiety… hostels really bring out the worst in me. Awkward social situations are one of my biggest anxiety triggers, and I’m a massive introvert who thrives off alone time. While I used to love staying in hostels, I’ve realized that I can only live such a public, shared life for so long before I start to go a little crazy when solo traveling.

Part of it is that I need to work from home a fair bit and hostels make crappy environments for that. But mostly, I get tired of having the same dull conversation time and again, and tired of making excuses not go out drinking profusely for the nth night in a row.

Also, I’ve gotten a little spoiled.

I’m no longer the youngest person in the room

Perhaps related to my blah, hostels stance is the fact that I’ve finally realized that I’m aging. Bear with me here:

I moved to New York and went to college when I was 17, the youngest person in my class by a good year or so. When I started my job in the Department of Education at 21, I was easily the youngest teacher there, and continued to be for the five years I worked there.

I got used to always being surrounded by people older than me. Frankly, it made me feel like I had time to figure out my life.

Now I feel like I’m always surrounded by young’uns who are just starting out their 20s, and I can’t help but be wrenched with envy. I find myself wondering about how if I hadn’t become a teacher and had gone into travel blogging earlier, if I’d be more successful. If I wouldn’t be alone if I had made better choices in romantic partners over the years. Basically, if I had the wisdom I have now without all the pesky business of, y’know, actually attaining it.

I actually like the beach

I never was much of a beach person – the result of many a third degree sunburn and hating the way I looked in a swimsuit.

After finally learning that I need to reapply sunscreen a jillion times and seek shade between noon and 2, I’ve finally developed a tan for the first time in my life and don’t burn quite so easily. I’ve also made peace with the size of my thighs and am finally wearing age-appropriate bathing suits instead of the grandma-inspired bottoms that even the Mormon church would approve of.

As much as I say I want to travel slower, I never do

I’m of the opinion that clinical FOMO should be added to the DSM, whenever they see fit to revise it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve sworn that I’m going to choose a base and start establishing a healthy work-life-travel balance…. only to find myself staring at a ticket confirmation page to a brand new country just days later.

While I’ll never be one of those superhuman travel bloggers who are in a new country every couple of days, I haven’t been able to stay in one spot longer than two weeks (Little Corn Island, you tried to tame me).

There are so many countries I want to tick off my bucket list, cities I want to wander, mountains I want to climb. So to settle down and pick just one city — even if just for a few months — seems nigh impossible.

I’ve challenged myself to pick a city in Eastern Europe for one month to live in this August, when I’ll need to get out of Schengen so as not to overstay my visa. Sofia, Belgrade, and Bucharest are all vying for the honor.

I have a hard time with routines and self-care

This is probably related to my FOMO-induced restlessness, but even when I’m back at home, self-care is a struggle. A regular sleep schedule…. HAHAHA what’s that? Exercising regularly? Unless you consider digesting donuts exercise, which I do, go away. Sometimes even the simplest things like filling up my old lady pill box with my pills and vitamins for the week seems like a task plucked from the annals of Hercules.

And don’t get me started on my taxes (actually, no please do).

As much as I say I’m a cynic, I’m a big old softie at heart

For some reason, I’ve always thought of myself as a pessimistic person. I blame the Q train.

But getting to know myself better, I’m learning that while I may get irritated about indignities like manspreading, body odor, and showtime, I’m pretty optimistic about the world writ large. The people I’ve met on my travels have, with few exceptions, gone above and beyond to help me and welcome me everywhere I go. And I can only respond to that with love and gratitude.

But I still love animals more than people

I can’t count the number of times I stopped whatever I was doing to coo over the animal in front of me, whether it was a dog, cat, horse, donkey…. Even the mangiest-looking of dogs (I’m thinking of you, Taco, the ugliest dog in all of Guatemala) were not spared my effusive love.

Being around animals centers me and makes me calm, forcing me to press pause on whatever thoughts I have buzzing around my head to enjoy the peace of a quick, stolen snuggle.

I’ve learned to relinquish control

Part of why I think traveling has been good for my anxiety is that I’ve learned that I can’t control everything. I used to be such a micromanager, planning every future event to the letter. Now that it’s impossible to predict what any given day will be like, I have the latitude to let go a little.

While at first that made me a bit panicky and hard to travel with (many thanks to my dear friend Kristine for managing to put up with my high strung antics) I’ve started to master the subtle art of not giving a fuck.

Writing is what I’m meant to do

Not that I think I’m especially good at it… nor do I think I’m exceptionally bad. I just know that nothing fills me with more purpose than sitting down and finally putting everything that’s been churning around this little brain of mine on paper. Nothing fills me with more happiness than when a reader reaches out to say they’ve connected with my words.

Starting from when I annexed my aunt’s computer at the tender age of six to write a story about a car running out of gas in the middle of a desert, I knew I wanted to be a writer. In college I lived and breathed it, taking poetry and fiction workshops with some of the greats, even conquering my fear of public speaking to perform at poetry readings.

But once I started teaching, the daily emotional labor of the job beat the creativity out of me. I stopped writing for nearly five years. This blog, humble as it may be, has brought me back in touch with that. And that is perhaps what I’m most grateful for in this new crazy life I’ve created for myself.

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What I've learned from a year of solo female travel: tips, photos, and musings after traveling Europe, Central America, and the USA

The Valley of Fire and Grand Canyon by Helicopter in Vegas

Whatever you have at the top of your bucket list, give it a nudge to make room for one of the best experiences I’ve ever had: seeing the Grand Canyon by helicopter with 5 Star Helicopter Tours.

Words aren’t sufficient to describe the feeling of seeing the most beautiful and iconic landmark in all of the United States from a helicopter. But seeing as I’m a professional travel writer… I’ve got to try. And luckily I snapped a few photos along the way to help a sister out.

Fly over the Grand Canyon in a helicopter as a day trip from Vegas

It’s a humbling feeling, seeing with your own eyes the endless strata of rock that date back nearly 2 billion years — nearly half the lifetime of our earth.

It simultaneously makes you feel so small and unimportant in the timeline of our planet, yet so lucky that you happen to live in an age where you can harness the power of flight to see it from a helicopter.

Flying over the Colorado River, I couldn’t help but think: all that was carved from that tiny little stream? The magnitude of the stacks of rock of the canyon next to the relative puniness of the Colorado River is a sight to behold. It’s awe-inspiring to say to least to see how the twin forces of water and wind collaborated over the years — some 5 or more million of them, it seems — to carve out this insane view.

The hoover dam was part of helicopter in Vegas tour

En route to the Grand Canyon on your helicopter tour, you’ll see the impact that another force has had on America’s landscape: human determination. Over the span of just a few hundred years – a millisecond compared to the Grand Canyon’s timeline — we’ve quite literally created something from nothing.

An oasis in the middle of the desert, the creation of the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead – the tallest dam in the U.S. and the largest manmade lake in the U.S. respectively – was crucial to expansion in this inhospitable corner of the country.

It’s beautiful to see how anthropological forces combine with the geological, trying to tame our earth to eke out an existence. Oddly, it made me rather emotional, feeling — for a change — faith in the drive of the human spirit and our ability to collaborate in pursuit of a common goal.

I know, I know — only I would get this philosophical on a freaking helicopter tour over the Grand Canyon.

A snap from our Grand Canyon helicopter tour from Vegas
Trying to capture the beauty of manmade Lake Mead

Yet as jaw-droppingly beautiful as the Grand Canyon was, I wasn’t prepared for what would actually be the show stealer: flying over the Valley of Fire by the light of sunset.

I had visited the Valley of Fire by day previously and was blown away by its landscape, but nothing could have prepared me for how amazing it would look approaching by helicopter with the sun setting the red rocks ablaze.


Luckily for me, all my philosophizing about the grandness of our planet, our tiny place in the grand scheme of it, etc. was interrupted by a call for happy hour.

Oh, I didn’t mention that this was a sunset and champagne helicopter tour?

I stole away the bottle for some photo opportunities because I’m a professional. Much to the surprise of the couple who did the tour with us, I returned it just as full as I left it — it was all for the ‘gram, baby.

(Also, pro tip – don’t wear a dress on a helicopter tour if you have this little thing I’ve heard people talk about called shame. Oops)

The more the sun set, the more it cast insane light on the amazing viewpoint we had landed at — drawing out all the colors of the Valley of Fire’s Rainbow Vista. It was, dare I say, even more beautiful than the Grand Canyon.

As we wistfully got back onto the helicopter to say goodbye to the Valley of Fire, all four of us let out an audible whoa — then a big belly laugh at our nearly choreographed response — as we shot up, up, up and saw the colorful beauty of the Valley of Fire laid bare before us.

As our kickass female pilot flew our helicopter back to Vegas, I felt sadness well up in me that one of the most amazing experiences of my life was nearly over.

Luckily, I was quickly distracted by the shiny lights of the Strip as we passed overhead.

I’ll admit, I came to Vegas not expecting much. As someone who prefers Netflix and onesies to club hits, and a miserly gambler who feels like losing $6 is the end of the world, I thought I’d be sorely out of place.

But Las Vegas – this madman’s hallucination in the middle of the desert – is so close to some of the most beautiful places in this entire country that you’d be hasty to write it off as just an adult Disneyworld.

Get off – or at least above – the Strip, and you’ll see just what I’m talking about.

I’ve partnered with 5 Star Helicopter Tours to offer a 10% discount to my readers on any helicopter tour they offer – just mention that you were referred by Eternal Arrival to get the discount. Prices range from $149 per person for a Las Vegas Strip helicopter tour for those visiting Vegas on a budget to $499 for this tour, the Grand Canyon and Valley of Fire sunset tour which lasts about 4 hours.

Note: Many thanks to 5 Star Helicopter Tours for the complimentary helicopter tour. All opinions are entirely my own.

See the Grand Canyon, the Valley of Fire, AND The Las Vegas Strip by helicopter - with sunset champagne! TIck this one off the bucket list with an exclusive discount code for readers inside.

 

75 Reasons You Must Travel to Albania ASAP

day trips from Saranda Albania

For too long, Albania has been ignored as a tourist destination. I get it. The country has had to bounce back from a lot. For years, Albania was under one of the most repressive communist totalitarian regimes in history – even North Korea has more trade partners and diplomacy than Albania did thirty years ago. I’m about to drop some serious Albania facts on you, so if you’re into history, get excited.

It emerged from the shackles of totalitarianism in 1991 with basically no GDP and virtually no economy. A countrywide pyramid scheme in which Albanians lost a total of 1.2 billion dollars (a fortune, considering how Albanians had only had six years of free market in order to actually obtain money to invest) in 1997 sent the country into chaos.

But things are way, way different now, and while the country still has far to come to catch up with its neighbors in Europe, it’s making great strides towards lasting progress. Albania is a country with an unfathomably long history, almost 5,000 years, with influence from Greeks, Illyrians, Romans, Venetians, Byzantines, and Ottomans.

To sum up Albania as just what’s happened in the last century is myopic. Yes, Albania has suffered, but it’s bouncing back with incredible fortitude and rightfully emerging as a tourist destination.

Seeing as I’ve unofficially become an Albania travel guide, telling everyone who’ll listen about this beautiful place, I figured I’d put it in writing and save myself the trouble. Without further ado, here are 75 reasons why you should plan your holidays to Albania as soon as possible!

1. It’s off the beaten path. Can you imagine going to 2,000 year old Roman ruins and not having to wait for people to get out of your shot constantly? Well, visit Albania, and it’s not only possible – it’ll happen all the time.

day trips from Saranda Albania

2. It’s not just affordable – it’s cheap. Budget backpacking anywhere in Balkans, with the exception of Croatia, is inexpensive compared to Western Europe. But Albania is leaps and bounds cheaper than its neighbors, especially when it comes to transit and food costs. A six hour bus ride will set you back only $7 USD; a gyro, $1 USD; a 3-course meal with an espresso, $8 USD.

3. The beaches are the best in Europe. Sorry, Croatia, Italy, Greece, and Montenegro, I know you’ll disagree, but Albania has got the best beaches in all of Europe. The stony beaches make the water a gorgeous, crystal-clear turquoise that feels like your real life has been Photoshopped. Ksamil, Albania as well as the beaches of Himara and Dhermi are outstanding. The weather in Albania is comparable to the rest of Europe, so you’ll have hot sunny days all summer long.

copyright Janet Newenham - drone over Albania
Drone shot courtesy of Janet Newenham of Journalist on the Run / Your Irish Adventure

4. … And they’re not crowded.

Unlike their more famous Northern and Southern neighbors, you’ll have plenty of space to yourself when you go to the beach in Albania.

Albanian riviera gjipe

There are also tons of hidden beaches that you can have basically to yourself with a little creativity (or a little guts!). Himara is an excellent hub close to the best Albanian beaches in the Riviera. Plus, accommodations in the Albanian Riviera are incredibly cheap!

5. Albanian people are insanely generous. I’ve never been offered more things in my life – whether it was cake on the side of a road from someone I asked directions, half of someone’s lunch who we hitchhiked with, an espresso at a cafe, or rakia (so much rakia), then when traveling in Albania.

6. The sunsets along the coast are incredible. The whole time you travel Albania, you’ll be treated to breathtaking sunsets, just as beautiful as Greece’s or Croatia’s — at a fraction of the price.

travel Albania and discover the natural beauty of the coast line!

7. You need to learn the love-hate relationship with rakia. Rakia is basically moonshine, distilled typically from grapes or plums, popular all throughout the Balkans, but especially loved in Albania. The best nights (and the worst mornings) usually are courtesy of rakia.

8. Besa, which is loosely translated as “faith” or “trust”, is extremely important to Albanians. For centuries, Albanians have abided by the code of “besa” which basically means it’s their duty to look after the people who visit Albania. That means that even if you’re traveling solo through Albania, you’ll never really be alone.

Albania travel is tiring but amazing, worth every minute
Besa means that my friend’s cousin – who I had never met before – took two days to show me around her hometown, beautiful Korca.

9. Albanians are keen to change their image. Albanians are aware that they’ve been associated with mobsters and gangsters, and more than a few Albanians bitterly remarked me that “we’re not all like Taken.” Which is true – I never once felt unsafe or unwelcome in my month spent traveling in Albania. Besides, as one local slyly remarked me to me, “All the Albanian mafia has left. Who would they make money off of here?”

10. Albanians are honest. I’m always on my guard for scams, having been ripped off and nearly pickpocketed within 12 hours in Hanoi. It turns out I didn’t have to worry at all when in Albania. In Pogradec, a man who changed money for a friend ran down the street to the bus station to find us, panicked that he hadn’t given us the right change (but he had). For Albania, tourism increasing holds huge potential to lift its citizens out of poverty, so Albanians will be sure you are well taken care of.

11. Albania is safe. While tourism in Albania is just beginning, traveling Albania is just as safe as going pretty much anywhere else in Europe. You’re less at risk for petty crime in Albania than you are in, say, Madrid, Barcelona, Rome, or Paris, and violent crime is extremely rare.

Note: While Albania is very safe, that doesn’t mean you should go without travel insurance in case of an emergency or accident. I use World Nomads travel insurance on every trip as it’s easy to book online and offers extensive coverage at low prices. Get a free quote here.

My Albania travel buddies!
Ok, this photo is of Albanians in Kosovo, but you get the idea. So threatening with their rainbow umbrella and bear phone. Definitely shouldn’t travel here.

12. Street harassment is extremely uncommon. As a woman who travels alone, I’m often subjected to street harassment, which makes me feel uncomfortable, unsafe, and irritated. In my entire time in Albania, not one man bothered me on the streets, even when I walked home alone late at night to my hostel in Tirana. It was such a breath of fresh air to be around such polite, respectful men.

13. Albanians give the best directions. Which is to say they’re either extremely detailed if they speak English, or oftentimes they’ll just walk with you to your destination because they’re afraid of you getting lost. After a flurry of hand gestures did nothing, I once had an old lady in a robe and house shoes pull me by the sweater tied around my waist, leading me up on a ledge, in order to show me how to get to the Berat Castle via the back way. You can’t say Albanian people don’t try!

14.There are countless fortresses and castles that you can explore. Most castles have limited infrastructure, such as informational plaques or warning signs, so you get to feel a bit like Indiana Jones as you explore castles totally on your own. If you’re more the tour kind of person, you’re in luck: lack of tourism in Albania has made tours insanely cheap.

see beautiful castles like this when you travel in Albania

15. Albanians love Americans. Okay, so this is maybe only exciting for me and my fellow countrymen, but we’re a bit of an unpopular lot in some parts of Europe. And I get it, I really do – I definitely cringe whenever I see the telltale shorts-and-fanny-pack of a clueless American tourist speaking loudly and slowly at someone who speaks perfect English like they’re an idiot.

But when traveling in Albania, I discovered that Americans are actually quite well-liked – so much so that they’ve even named a street after George W. Bush in Tirana (cool your jets, guys, even we don’t like him!). The town of Fushe Kruje which he visited even has a statue of him! You’ll also find a Hillary Clinton statue in Saranda, Albania, close to SR Backpackers, where I stayed while in Saranda. Fingers crossed we never need to find out if they’d erect a Trump statue. (edited to add: UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH)

16. But really, Albanians just love all foreigners. You’ll never feel more special as a tourist than when you visit Albania. I was traveling around with a lot of Australians and you should have seen the look on locals’ faces when they found out people from Australia were visiting their country. It was the most delightful mix of confusion, excitement, and pride.

17. Forget buses and planes – Albania is all about the furgon. Furgons are minibuses, which are often Mercedes vans converted to fit the most human life possible inside them. They’re democratic institutions – first come first served, they’ll pick you up and drop you off anywhere along the route, and they’ll charge you based on the distance you travel.

Sure, some of the seats aren’t that comfortable, especially the ones above the wheels, but I actually quite love the humble furgon. It’s the most authentic way to travel in Albania.

The closest thing to a bus station I encountered when traveling Albania

18. Honestly, the public transit is actually quite reliable – it’s just different. Furgons will get you basically everywhere you need to go, although you do sometimes have to make a transfer rather than going direct. Occasionally, on less popular routes, a minibus won’t run every day, and as the season winds down, minibuses are less frequent.

Still, I visited for the second time in mid-October as the summer season was done and gone, and even some less popular routes were still roaring. I traveled from Korça to Berat and Berat to Vlora no problems, perfectly on time – in fact, often early, so be sure to get there at least 15 minutes before your bus is due to leave.

19. Infrastructure is improving. I had heard that the roads in Albania were awful – I was happy to find that it really wasn’t the case. Of all the routes I took, I only really encountered one road that was pretty rough and tumble, and it was only because they were working on the main road and re-routed us another way.

If you travel Albania in the more rural parts, you’ll encounter some rough roads I’m sure, but the main roads connecting the coastal cities, Tirana, Shkodra, and some of the southern Albanian cities like Berat, Gjirokastra, and Korca were all fine. That said, there are still some flaws hampering this otherwise beautiful country.

There is no national recycling program and litter continues to be a major issue. Tirana and other Albanian cities have an admirable program to neuter and vaccinate the stray dogs in the cities, but it’s a slow process. Still, considering the country’s economy started from basically nothing in 1991, I think they’ve made tremendous strides.

20. You can even drink the tap water now in many parts of the country. I had heard that Albania’s tap water was totally undrinkable. This was far from true! I drank the tap water without incident in Saranda, Tirana, Shkodra, Berat, and Korca – always after asking a local first just to double check. I recommend bringing a Life Straw water bottle, which removes over 99.9% of waterborne bacteria and parasites, to cut back on your plastic use (there is no recycling program in Albania, sadly).

day trips from Saranda Albania

21. They make excellent Italian food. Albania is so close to Italy, and they’ve absorbed a lot of their culture. Pizza in Albania is top-notch, probably the next best thing to Italian pizza itself.

22. The coast has amazing seafood. You can eat delicious fresh prawns, mussels, fish, calamari… all for bargain prices and fresh as can be. Up north near Lake Shkodra, the lake trout is also incredibly delicious – so make sure you try that if you’re visiting Shkodra (which I highly recommend — stay at the Wanderers!) or other cities up north.

try the seafood when traveling through Albania!

23. Local dishes are delightful. Traditional Albanian food like tavë kosi (baked lamb with yogurt) and patëllxhanët mbushur (stuffed eggplant) are unique and delicious, always cooked with local ingredients and fresh produce.

24. A lot of the cuisine is vegetarian. Many of their dishes incorporate veggies in a way that other countries in the Balkans don’t. Their stuffed peppers and grape leaves are almost always vegetarian and filling, they offer a wide variety of salads, and grilled vegetables are available everywhere.

love the food in albania - a reason alone to travel to albania

25. But they also make a mean grilled meat plate. Enough said.

Ahh, a well-balanced meal...
Ahh, a well-balanced meal… look, there’s even lettuce!

26. They make excellent coffee. Albanians love their coffee, especially espresso, and you can get an espresso for as little as 50 lek – about 40 euro cents. I will say that sometimes their definition of a cappuccino would make Italians shudder, as they sometimes come topped with whipped cream, but there are worse things than free whipped cream, right?

27. The produce is fresh, delicious, and often organic. Of course, it won’t be labeled as such, but most produce in Albania comes from small, local farmers who frankly probably don’t have enough money to spend on pesticides. For that reason, the tomatoes and cucumbers are some of the best I’ve had in the world. Perfect for…

28. Albania has amazing Greek salads and gyros, thanks to its Greek minority population. Yup, in addition to rocking Italian food and traditional Albanian food, you can get delicious Greek food like grape leaves, tzatziki, gyros, and Greek salad. The two cuisines share a lot in common and the line between what’s Greek and what’s Albanian vary on where you are and who you ask (as many things do in the Balkans…)

food in Albania, one more reason to travel there!

29. The mountains are absolutely beautiful. My biggest regret about Albania is that I didn’t get to do the hike from Valbona to Thethi that I had planned on. Crazy storms were raging when I was in Shkodra, making the hike I was planning to do the next day impossible, so I rerouted to Kosovo and traveled through the rest of the Balkans.

By the time I returned to Albania, it was mid-October and reaching below freezing at night, so a hike didn’t feel like the best idea. But seeing the same mountain range in Montenegro and Kosovo, I can only imagine how beautiful it is in that part of Albania. But you don’t need to travel to Valbona to see mountains – they’re everywhere, even leading right down to the beaches in some cases.

Another Janet
Drone shot courtesy of Janet Newenham of Journalist on the Run

30. The Albanian language is unlike any other. Albanian (called Shqip, which is pronounced “shchip”, which gives you a little preview of the beautiful chaos that is the Albanian language) is one of the oldest living languages. Some consider it a language isolate, some think it’s related to Illyrian or Armenian… let’s leave it to the linguists and just say it’s incredibly difficult – though beautiful to hear – and, to my totally untrained eyes and ears, reminds me of Dothraki on GoT. (nerd alert)

31. That being said, locals will love you if you try to speak Albanian. Albanians know how difficult their language is, and they really appreciate it when you take the time to learn a few words of Albanian. Mirëdita (meer-deeta) – good day, faleminderit (fah-le-min-DER-it) – thank you, diten e mirë (deet-en ay meer) – Have a good day, and of course, gëzuar (guh-zoo-ar) – cheers: master these four and people will be delighted.

32. The rural parts of the country are stunning. I haven’t seen many Albanian villages or rural life, which I’ve been told is where the real heart of the country is. But my method is to always leave a stone unturned, so I know I’ll come back. What I’ve seen of rural Albania from the furgons is incredible, and I’d love to discover it more deeply.

The calm before the storm in Shkodra, Albania

33. The Albanian flag is so dope. A double-headed eagle…  god, could a flag get any cooler? Albanians are obsessed with their flag, and honestly, so am I. So epic.

34. On a similar note, Albanians are really patriotic. While sometimes this patriotism can border on nationalism (which is not unique to Albanians, of course), what this means in practical terms for the traveler is that Albanians will do anything to make sure you love their country just as much as they do. If you tell them you love their country, most will beam with pride.

35. Hitchhiking is incredibly easy and safe throughout Albania. The combination of a lack of a centralized public transit system, the Albanian hospitality and belief in besa, and an outsized love for their cars all merge to make it probably one of the easiest places to hitchhike in the world and definitely in Europe. It’s also quite safe, which you wouldn’t expect if you take your travel advice from Liam Neeson, but it’s true!

hitching in albania

36. In fact, hitchhiking is an amazing experience there and I recommend it to all who travel Albania. During my hitching experience, I was picked up by a trucker who didn’t speak a word of English but was all smiles, two young college students who brought us all the way to Kosovo even though they weren’t planning on crossing the border, and more than a couple Mercedes Benzes.

37. Mercedes Benzes are the national car. OK, not really, but it’s kind of ironic that one of Europe’s poorest countries has more Mercedes Benzes than anywhere else I’ve been – including NYC and California. For a more detailed explanation, read on here.

38. It’s easy to travel to and from other countries in the region. There are frequent public buses from Montenegro via Ulcinj and Shkodra as well as direct buses run by hostel companies from hotspots like Kotor to Tirana. Going from Tirana to Prizren or Prishtina in Kosovo is also quite easy.

If you’re thinking of going onto Macedonia, there are Tirana to Skopje buses and in peak season direct buses between Ohrid as well, which can also be accessed via Berat, Elbasan, or Korca. Greece is close to Saranda and Korca, and you can take a ferry to Corfu in about thirty minutes.

nearby Prizren, Kosovo - easy to travel to Albania from here
Nearby Prizren, Kosovo – just a few hours away from Tirana by bus

39. Oh, and Italy is only a short boat ride away, too!

If you’re in Italy and want to make your way over to travel Albania, it’s actually really quick and affordable to catch a ferry to Albania. A bonus? The views are beautiful.

Vlora, one of the prettiest places to travel in Albania

40. Tirana, Albania’s capital, is unlike any other capital city I’ve seen. It’s chaotic and exhilarating, unique and intriguing, improvised and improving. There’s a sense that it’s stuck in the past at the same time that it’s accelerating towards the future, and it’s fascinating to be right there with it. The best way to get a sense of Tirana is by walking or biking through it.

41. Tirana was more influenced by communism than other cities in Albania, making it ideal for history and Communist architecture geeks. There are some absolutely strange pieces of architecture in Tirana, in particular, Piramida, the abandoned memorial to deceased dictator Enver Hoxha that is now a TV station/slide/tourist oddity.

The quirky communist art and architecture is a great part of traveling Albania

42. The nightlife in Tirana is really fun. I loved going out in the Blloku neighborhood, the old heart of the communist party loyalists. This has turned into a hipster/upscale neighborhood of sorts, where a draft beer goes for (*gasp*) 2 euros.

If you’re traveling solo and but want to experience the best of Albanian nightlife, you can do a cocktail and communism tour through trendy Blloku accompanied by a local!

Getting my hipster on at Radio in Blloku (I promise these glasses are medically necessary.)

43. The bunkers offer a fascinating, if unsightly, look into the past. I enjoyed visiting Bunkart in Tirana, which used to be the former dictator Enver Hoxha’s bunker in case of attack. It’s a fascinating insight into the psyche of a sick, paranoid man. An estimated 700,000 smaller bunkers dot the countryside, in places you’d never think would be at risk of attack.

If you’ve got bunker fever, you can even do a full-day bunkers and beaches tour! Only when you travel Albania, guys.

bunkart quirky things to do in tirana

44. In fact, there’s no country quite comparable to 20th century Albania. Under Enver Hoxha, even Tito’s Yugoslavia, Mao’s China, and Khruschev’s USSR were all just too liberal and not purely communist enough. As a result, Albania had no external ties with other countries from 1978 until 1991.

When the dictatorship finally fell, things like bananas and blue jeans were totally brand-new phenomena. Even today’s North Korea has a more open economy than pre-1990s Albania. Luckily, Albania has been quite quick to take to modernization.

45. But there’s so much more than just the Communist past. I understand (and share!) the fascination with Albania’s insane communist past. But before that, Albania has almost 5,000 years of history, with influence from Greeks, Illyrians, Romans, Venetians, Byzantines, and Ottomans. That all has shaped the country so much more than its Communist era, even though those have the most obvious visual influence.

day trips from Saranda Albania - a great thing to do when traveling Albania
Albania is home to some of the best-preserved Christian mosaics in the world, like Butrint

46. The 400-year occupation of the Ottoman Empire forever changed Albania in unique ways. As a result of the occupation, Albania became a majority Muslim country — approximately 60% — although most Albanians follow a very loose interpretation of Islam – if they follow anything at all.

Most Albanians, even if they’re of Muslim origin, eat pork and drink alcohol (in fact, I think your Albanian citizenship is revoked if you don’t drink rakia. I kid, I kid), and very few women wear headscarves, regardless of origin (although those who do don’t get any odd looks).

47. Yet for years, Albania was the only country in the world to have an outright ban on religion. That’s right. In 1967, the practice of religion was completely banned within the country of Albania. As a result, unfortunately, many churches and mosques throughout the country were destroyed. Albanians have been working hard to rebuild these places of worship throughout the country. Precious few remain of the pre-Communist era – only those that party leaders deemed worthy of cultural preservation, such Et’hem Bey mosque in Tirana, pictured above.

48. Albania is a true cultural mixing pot. Throughout time, Albania has had the influence of Greeks and Romans, Slavs and Italians, Muslims and Christians. These divisions don’t really seem to faze Albanians, and the unifying fact of language, tradition, and above all — patriotism — seem to be more important than ethnicity or religion.

49. Albanians are incredibly tolerant of other religions. Interfaith marriages are quite common in Albania, and friend groups are typically well-integrated and have little to do with religion. Religion appears to be more of a cultural or hereditary signifier than any deeply held convictions.

Unlike countries like Bosnia and Herzegovina, where ethnic strife was in large part exacerbated by religious differences, Albanians really don’t seem to care that much about religion. In fact, Albania is the only country in which the population of Jews increased during WWII, as average citizens took in thousands of Jewish refugees at great risk to themselves, despite having virtually no ties to Judaism.

travel to Albania and see the Korca caethedral
The Orthodox cathedral in Korça was only built in 1992, replacing the church that communists had destroyed in the late 1960s.

50. In fact, for many, “the only religion of Albania is Albanianism.” This quote was co-opted by Enver Hoxha to justify his religious ban; however, it originally appeared in Shkodra’s beloved poet Pashko Vasa’s nationalist poem “O moj Shqiperi”. Basically, that is to say, Albanians are much more concerned with sharing an ethnic and cultural legacy based on the concept of being Albanian, rather than being concerned with any religious ties.

51. Albania is a UNESCO darling, with three major sites having UNESCO Status.

day trips from Saranda Albania

52. One of them, Butrint, is a 2,000 old set of Roman ruins. It has alternately been ruled by Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans. It’s set on a beautiful lake near the border with Greece, and it’s almost always completely deserted, making it a beautiful place to wander, snap photos, and imagine a simpler world taking place exactly where you stood over two millennia ago. Definitely one of the best points of interest in Albania.

53. Gjirokastra is another UNESCO site, just as breathtaking as Butrint. It is an Ottoman-era “museum city” complete with a gorgeous ruined castle perched atop a massive hill surrounded by houses with layered flat stone roofs. (Note: I just did a day trip to Gjirokastra, but friends raved about Stone City Hostel, open seasonally)

gjirokaster awesome day trip from saranda

54. In fact, Gjirokastra is also home to iso-polyphony folk music, which is a uniquely Albanian tradition honored by UNESCO’s intangible heritage designation. Every year, performances are held in the castle, keeping the tradition alive. To be honest, the music isn’t my cup of tea, but it’s incredible what they are able to do with their voices, creating unique, haunting sounds without the use of a single instrument.

55. Berat is twinned with Gjirokastra, though it’s worth visiting totally aside from Gjirokastra. It is the more famous twin, and equally gorgeous in my opinion, yet quite different. Berat is marked with only white paint and large square windows that look almost like eyes, giving it the nickname “City of a Thousand Windows.”

Honestly, I think UNESCO made a mistake by twinning these cities together, which suggests that you can see one of the two and “get the idea.” They’re both incredibly unique places, and each warrants its own visit. It’s definitely worth visiting for a few days, but you can also visit Berat as a day trip from Tirana as well.

When in Berat, I can’t say I recommend staying at Berat Backpackers. Everyone there was incredibly kind and the rooms were clean and comfy… but the wifi was practically nonexistent, but the shower pressure was the worst I’ve ever experienced in 10 years of traveling. You can get a cheap hotel for as little as $10-15 a night, so treat yourself.

56. There are many other places on UNESCO’s tentative list that are also worth a visit. The Durrës Amphitheatre, Apollonia, and Ohrid, among others, are all on the list for consideration.

57. But historic cities aren’t all Albania has to offer – it has incredible lakes. Lake Komani is the gem of Albania, followed closely by Lake Shkodra (which it shares with Montenegro), Lake Ohrid (which it shares with Macedonia), and Lake Butrint. All so different, yet so beautiful. Check out the video below to get an idea.


Thanks to Dan Flying Solo for letting me use his epic video of Lake Komani.

58. Aside from its lakes, Albania has deep-flowing natural springs. These springs are called “Blue Eyes,” and while there is an incredibly famous one in the south (called Syri I Kalter in Albanian), there is an equally beautiful though lesser known one in Thethi as well.

blue eye syri i kalter day trip from Saranda

59. It has gorgeous waterfalls as well that locals love to swim in. The waterfalls in Begova near Berat are a favorite of locals when the summers get hot — with rakia, of course! It’s too bad I was in Berat in mid-October so I didn’t go to these waterfalls.

60. It even has a wine region with surprisingly delicious wine. I did, however, sample the surprisingly excellent local wines in Berat, made by Cobo Wineries. Wine tasting tours are available as well!

61. It’s yet to be Westernized with American fast food chains… well, except the one. I love the fact that the country’s first international chain, KFC, is opening literally across the road from Enver Hoxha’s old mansion. I believe that’s what we call “throwing shade”, Albania. Nicely done.

kfc-tirana

62. You’ll meet a lot of like-minded travelers in Albania. I guess because not many people travel to Albania, the tourists who do go there are really interesting, easy-going, and open-minded. I never met more interesting and fun people than I did when traveling in Albania! The hostels in Albania are fabulous as well – I know it may sound scary to the uninitiated, but hotels are one of the best ways to travel Albania if you’re solo. Check out top-rated hostels here.

63. Sometimes, it seems as if parts of Albania are stuck in a time capsule. You’ll be driving along a surprisingly smooth highway when suddenly, hey! There are goats and cows wandering the roads.

goats-in-berat

 64. Albania is squarely outside the Schengen zone, making it perfect if you’re staying in Europe for over 90 days. Many countries in the Balkans, including Montenegro, Macedonia, Serbia, Kosovo, and Bosnia are also outside Schengen, so it’s easy to plan a little detour to travel in Albania if you’re close to using up the 90 days out of the 180 days on your Schengen visa and need to spend time outside the zone to keep your visa valid.

65. It’s quite easy for foreigners to get visas. 77 countries and territories, plus every EU country, can visit Albania visa-free for 90 days. But even if you’re not one of those countries, if you’ve had and used a valid UK, US, or EU visa, you get the same 90-day visa policy as all other qualifying countries.

66. Though hostels are new the country, they are surprisingly excellent. Every single hostel I stayed at in Albania was great (with the minor exception of Berat Backpackers), and far better and cheaper than a lot of hostels I’ve stayed at in Western Europe, including cities like Rome and Barcelona.

In fact, Trip’N Hostel in Tirana is probably the best hostel I’ve stayed at, period. They even brew their own beer! Be sure to book in advance if you go during the high season. I was so lucky as a walk-in to get the last bunk — everyone after me had to find another place.

The best hostel I've ever stayed at for $12 a night, with this delicious omelette and Albanian coffee included.
The best hostel I’ve ever stayed at for $12 a night, with this delicious omelette and Albanian coffee included.

67. Albania is a delightful mix of discovered and undiscovered. You can really choose your own adventure here… whether you want to stick to the slightly-well-trodden path of Tirana and Saranda, or if you want to get a little more off the path and visit the quaint smaller cities of Shkodra and Korca, there are tons of options, all within furgon distance.

68. Albanian wedding parties are the best parties. I stumbled across one happening in the street next to the gyro restaurant in downtown Himara. It was just a giant circle dance that got bigger and bigger, more and more intricate throughout the night.

69. Albania will teach you patience. I will admit that travel in Albania is not the most straightforward, though I don’t think it necessarily makes it difficult. Sometimes, your bus will be late, or it will be unclear where you’re supposed to go. However, things always have a way of working out here. Give yourself some extra time and enjoy the ride.

But patience is easy when your surroundings are this gorgeous. Photo courtesy of Janet Newenham yet again

70. Albania will also teach you trust. Because Albania isn’t the easiest place to travel, especially since the public transportation system is run mostly by word of mouth and there’s no online timetable, you’ll have to learn to trust strangers. But that is actually a blessing in disguise, because it’ll show you just how kind and caring most people in the world are. And even moreso in this special little corner of the world.

71. English is actually fairly widely spoken – followed closely by Italian. The second language of Albanians tends to fall on strictly generational lines. Those who grew up under communism likely stole television and radio signals from Italy as the only way of having contact with the outside world; therefore, the older generation by and large speaks Italian to some extent. Younger people, and anyone who works in hospitality, has a fairly good understanding of English.

72. But what Albanians may lack in language skills, they’ll make up for in doggedness, body language, and effort. It’s not like an Albanian to shrug their shoulders and ignore you – they will do their damnedest to either answer your question through dramatic gesturing, dragging you down the street to finding someone who can help you, calling a friend on their phone and having you speak to them, or walking you right to your destination.

73. In short, Albanians are resilient and resourceful. They survived the most oppressive communist regime in history, saw the other end, and are now welcoming to outsiders from around the world. It’s astounding to me, a one-time New Yorker who hasn’t suffered anything more than the indignity of being trapped on a sweaty train car with five breakdancing teenage boys shouting “Showtime,” how people who have dealt with so much can be so welcoming, but they are.

74. Albania is changing… fast. With foreign investments coming in and the slow march of tourism coming down from the Croatian coast through Montenegro, it won’t be long until Albania changes. When cruise ships start regularly stopping at Albania… I must admit, I’ll be a little worried about what’ll happen to the precious beaches of Himara and Dhermi.

75. Albania is never boring. No matter where you go in the country, I can guarantee you, you’ll have never seen any place quite like it.

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Travel Albania and be astounded by the food, history, picture opportunities, beaches, and culture. From the capital of Tirana to the Albanian Riviera, there’s so much history and wonderful people to be found. Need convincing? I’ve got 75 reasons why this is literally my favorite country I’ve ever been to.

Note: This post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase something using one of these links, I will receive a small commission at no added cost to you. No BS – I only recommend accommodations, services, and products I truly believe in.

Glamping in a Yurt in Utah Underneath the Milky Way

Is it weird that my dream house is all one room, located 45 minutes away from civilization, and has no electricity or running water?

… If you answered yes, I’ll show myself the door. If you’re my yurt kindred spirit, this one’s for you. This yurt in Utah is everything I’ve been dreaming of.

We arrived at Zion Backcountry Yurts after 45 minutes of driving away from Zion National Park in southwestern Utah. The last half hour of driving was down an unpaved road that we were warned became impassable after heavy rain.

At first glance, the yurt appeared tiny, and I began to doubt the owner’s claims that it could sleep nine. Once inside, I saw that the yurt’s circular design – which made it look so diminutive on the outside – actually made it incredibly spacious.

Stay in a yurt in Utah

Sunlight flooded the yurt from the windows and skylight, making it seem even larger. In addition to three bunk beds — which would indeed sleep nine as three were double beds — there was room for two long tables, a kitchen with three gas burners, a kitchen prep surface, a cooler, a reading nook, and a wood-fired stove.

That stove wasn’t just for cozy aesthetics – though that was a nice bonus. As the yurt is entirely off the grid, with zero electricity, the wood-fired stove would be our source of heat throughout the cool May nights.

The cooking area was well-stocked with the necessary equipment and spices. After years of dealing with lackluster hostel kitchens, I truly appreciated how everything you needed to cook a great meal was provided. There was free coffee and tea, perfect as your nearest coffee shop is a good hour away at best.

The greatest part of staying in the yurt in Utah’s backcountry is just how in tune with nature it is. Completely off the grid, heated only by burning wood, lit only by a few LED lights at night, I’ve never felt so at peace.

As a blogger and a night owl who does her best work (slash Netflix binge-watching) at night, it can be so hard for me to unplug late at night and go to sleep. Without electricity or wifi to distract me, I certainly didn’t have any problems doing just that when staying in the yurt.

But the absolute best part of staying in the yurt in Utah’s backcountry was when I woke up at four in the morning to use the bathroom only to see the Milky Way glimmering above me for the first time in my life. 

That’s when I attained yurt nirvana.

I’m a self-confessed space geek; I’ve listened to every single podcast Neil deGrasse Tyson has ever put out and probably know more about dark matter than I do about pop culture. 

Seeing the bright belt of stars streaking above the yurt through the darkest sky I’ve ever seen — darker even than the night I spent in the Sahara Desert — was an almost spiritual experience for me. #nerdalert

Sunsets were equally magical, stopping everything to watch the sun disappear behind the red cliffs of nearby Zion National Park. Afterwards, I enjoyed the ritual of lighting the torches to usher in the inky night and brilliant stars.

Utah, you’re really something special.

If you want a piece of the yurt action, you’re in luck — it’s available on Airbnb. If you’re new to Airbnb, use my link to get $40 off your first stay.

Check availability on Airbnb now

 

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Go glamping in luxury just outside one of Utah's most beautiful places -- Zion National Park! Stay in a yurt underneath the Milky Way by night and hike the Narrows and Angels Landing by day. Check it out to see inside this gorgeous yurt!

Note: A huge thank you to Zion Backcountry Yurts for hosting me for two nights. All opinions are my own.

The Most Magical Things to Do in Bacalar, Mexico

Everyone flocks to the Yucatán peninsula for its truly stunning beaches. But ever the contrarian, my favorite beach in Mexico is actually not a beach at all.

It’s a lake, and it’s the most beautiful lake I’ve ever seen in the world.

Yes, I’m talking about quiet little Lake Bacalar. Not quite as coastal as it looks, Bacalar Lagoon is located inland in the very southern edge of the Yucatán Peninsula, close to the border of Belize.

Once a largely unknown lake, Instagram and the Internet age have catapulted it onto the radar of many, including — oddly though perhaps not surprisingly — a huge hippie population.

I’m not mad about it, though — I ate some of the best pasta I’ve had outside of Italy there.

Bacalar is a small town located about 5 hours from Cancun, 4 hours from Playa del Carmen or 3 hours from the other popular Yucatán hippie mecca of Tulum, popular destinations along the Yucatan Peninsula.

Not as frenetic as Playa and more low-key than Tulum, Bacalar Lagoon is truly an (increasingly-less) hidden gem on the Yucatán peninsula.

Its beautiful sights and low prices make it especially popular with people who are backpacking the Yucatán peninsula of Mexico.

It’s a must-see if you’re heading overland south to Belize, as it’s quite close to Chetumal, where you can easily catch chicken buses to Belize City to start your Belize trip.

Check out my extensive guide on what you should do and see in Belize if you’re headed that way.

While there aren’t many things to do in Bacalar, it’s still a place you can easily while away the days.

I spent my afternoons sipping Negra Modelos in a hammock overlooking Lake Bacalar, which is aptly named The Lake of Seven Colors. Though I think they’re selling themselves a bit short there — I counted far more than that.

Things to Do in Bacalar Lagoon

Admittedly, Bacalar isn’t the most exciting town in Mexico, but it’s not without its charms. Most of my favorite things to do in Bacalar revolve around its beautiful lake, but there are also a few other reasons to visit this lovely town.

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Planning to visit Riviera Maya Mexico? Get off the beaten path in Mexico and visit Lake Bacalar, the lake of seven colors. Bacalar is 3 hours from Tulum and makes a perfect place to visit in Mexico if you want something different. Here are the best things to do in Bacalar!
Planning to visit Riviera Maya Mexico? Get off the beaten path in Mexico and visit Lake Bacalar, the lake of seven colors. Bacalar is 3 hours from Tulum and makes a perfect place to visit in Mexico if you want something different. Here are the best things to do in Bacalar!

Stand-up paddleboard at sunrise

There are two partner hostels in Bacalar, The Green Monkey and The Blue Monkey, both of which offer stand-up paddleboarding tours daily leaving just before sunrise. For 400 pesos (approximately $20), you’ll get a guided paddleboarding trip through Bacalar that lasts about 3 hours, including a guide and paddleboard rental.

(If you’re planning a budget Mexico trip, check out this roundup of some of the best hostels in Mexico)

You’ll visit the sandbars with their many white birds, the Black Cenote, and El Canal de los Piratos (the Pirates’ Channel), where you can jump from the remains of a ship into crystal clear waters! This was definitely my favorite thing to do in Bacalar Lagoon.

paddleboarding is one of the best things to do in Lake Bacalar
Jumping into the water a great thing to do in Lake Bacalar

Kayak to the Black Cenote (Cenote Negro)

The Black Cenote is just a short kayak ride away from the Blue Monkey. In a matter of feet, the water goes from a peaceful turquoise to an inky black, where a limestone cavern has collapsed into itself to a depth of 90 meters.

There’s a rope swing nearby where you can catapult yourself into the water if you’re brave! Spoiler: I was not, because I have the coordination of a drunk toddler and jumping off a rope seems like a recipe for me to test the generosity of my travel insurance.

Take a boat tour

If you’re not up for paddleboarding, you can take a boat tour that will take you to all the best spots on Lake Bacalar, including the Pirates’ Channel, the Black Cenote, Cenote Esmeralda, and Cenote Cocolitos, where you can see stromatolites — the oldest living organism on the planet.

They only can survive in highly salty bodies of water in a few places on earth, and Bacalar — living up to its designation of “Pueblo Magico”, magic village — just happens to be one of them. Pretty freaking awesome.

Check out boat tours here.

Enjoy the Zocalo and the Fort San Felipe

Zocalo is the word for “main square” which virtually every Mexican city or town has at its heart. Right near Bacalar’s Zocalo you can find a number of restaurants as well as the ruins of an old fort, Fort San Felipe, built in the 1700s after the town was sacked by pirates.  Now, it’s an open air museum.

When looking for a place to eat, don’t miss Antojitos Orizaba, where you can eat authentic Mexican-style quesadillas — hint the

Where to Stay in Lake Bacalar

Though Bacalar is a small town, there are plenty of places to stay depending on your budget.

Budget: I stayed at The Blue Monkey and had mixed feelings It’s got a good lakefront location and strong AC. However, the showers are cold water only and the wifi is absolutely horrible – I could barely log on most of the time. It’s a bit of a walk from town (25 minutes or a $1 taxi ride) but nothing outrageous.

Instead, I’d probably try one of the newer offerings in town; there are some boutique hostels that offer more comfort at good prices. Next time I’d pick The Yak Lake Hostel (rated 9.0 with over 900 reviews on Booking.com) for its in-town location, excellent design and reputation for cleanliness. They also offer paddleboarding and kayaking tours if that’s something you want to do when you’re in Bacalar.

Mid-range: If you want more privacy than a dorm affords, I’d recommend Casa Zazil (rated 9.3 with over 100 reviews on Booking.com), which is no frills but comfortable and private. Located in town, it’s a 10 minute walk from the lakefront. Kulu Tubohostel is an interesting concept and has good reviews though I’m not sure I could commit to sleeping in a tube!

Luxury: Bacalar is a pretty laidback beach town but there are a few affordable luxury options. Casa Bambu is the best option in town, with a 9.3 rating on Booking.com. Its lakefront location and private rooms look super dreamy and that hammock has views for days.

Overwater Bungalow: Yes, there are overwater bungalows in Mexico, including the beautiful Akalki Resort & Spa. The overwater bungalows here are beautiful but a bit on the rustic side, but the location on Lake Bacalar and the amenities offered can’t be beat. Eat at their own farm-to-table restaurant, indulge in a massage or facial, or enjoy a temazcal (Mayan sweat lodge experience) or yoga class.

Getting to Bacalar Lagoon

Getting to Bacalar is quite easy and painless with multiple daily ADO buses. With wifi, AC, comfortable reclining seats, and movies, ADO buses are simply the best way to travel in Mexico. You can book online at clickbus.com.mx and show it to the driver on your phone.

For around 110 pesos ($6 USD) for a 3-hour bus ride from Tulum to Bacalar, in my opinion, it’s well worth the extra money to take a first-class bus. Second-class buses exist but may take up to twice as long to get to your destination as they will stop off wherever any passenger wants to be let off.

There are also daily buses from Playa del Carmen if you’re skipping past Tulum, but you’ll have to add on about another 1.5 to 2 hours for this trip.

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Planning to visit Riviera Maya Mexico? Get off the beaten path in Mexico and visit Lake Bacalar, the lake of seven colors. Bacalar is 3 hours from Tulum and makes a perfect place to visit in Mexico if you want something different. Here are the best things to do in Bacalar!

All the Best Things to Do in Novi Sad, Serbia

things to do in Novi Sad

When it comes to Serbia, Belgrade gets all the attention. And I get it – the city is electrifying.

The architecture is gorgeous, the nightlife is incredible, and the atmosphere is youthful and fun. But I think you’d be missing out if you went to Serbia and didn’t visit Novi Sad, about an hour north of the capital city.

Novi Sad is unique.  For one, it’s the capital of the Vojvodina province, an autonomous region within Serbia with 26 ethnic groups and six official languages. Yup, six!

things to do in Novi Sad
The town square of Novi Sad

It’s more colorful and ornate than other cities in the Balkans, with more intriguing and characterful architecture. Novi Sad is also set to be the European Capital of Culture in 2021, and damn, are they excited about it. Five years in advance of this, I saw signs all over the city about 2021! And I thought Olympics fervor started early…

Wondering what to do in Novi Sad? Don’t worry, I’ve got you covered with some ideas on what to visit in Novi Sad, this splendidly unique Serbian city.

Top Things to Do in Novi Sad

Take a free walking tour

Novi Sad has jumped into the free walking tour fray gripping all of Europe and offering its very own donation-based tour.  It starts at the National Theatre and ends at the fortress, truly showing you each and every highlight of what to see in Novi Sad in a few short hours.

If you’re planning on only doing a day trip to visit the best Novi Sad attractions, this is the way to do it: you’ll see all the highlights and still have time to indulge in some delicious food, relax in some kafanas, and amble through the streets are your own pace.

The colorful streets of downtown Novi Sad
The colorful streets of downtown Novi Sad

Admire the colorful buildings

What to see in Novi Sad? Try tons of colorful buildings!

Novi Sad is a surprisingly vibrant city – in fact, it even made my short list of the most colorful cities in the world! There are many colorful streets throughout the city, but Dunavksa Street was one of my favorite places to visit in Novi Sad, and it’s near the heart of Novi Sad nightlife as well. The area around the main Town Square is really vibrant and beautiful as well.

things to do in Novi Sad
The perfect place for a coffee or glass of wine on a sunny day

many things to do in Novi Sad
Another colorful storefront in the downtown

Marvel at the colorfully-tiled cathedral

You’ll probably never see another cathedral quite like the cathedral in Novi Sad. While our tour guide informed us that it’s not technically a cathedral (that honor belongs to the cathedral in Subotica, Serbia) – all the locals ignore this pedantry and call it “the Cathedral.” Its roof is distinctive for its incredibly colorful tiles on the roof, which glint and glitter in the sun – a true Novi Sad must see.

things to do in Novi Sad
Have you ever seen anything quite like this roof?

Walk through Danube Park

Danube Park is the primary green space and the heart of Novi Sad in the summer. If you’re looking for a break from the streets, or if you’d like a place to wander before making your way over the bridge to the fortress, Danube Park is the place to be.

things to do - Novi Sad edition
Danube Park – a gorgeous place to hang out if you run out of things to do in Novi Sad

Go to Petrovaradin Fortress

If you have only one day in Novi Sad and are wondering what to see, make sure you come here. The fortress in Novi Sad is one of the biggest in the region. It’s best to go there with a walking tour, so you can understand its strategic importance. It has a great view overlooking the Danube and the city center.

There are also many kilometers of underground tunnels beneath the fortress, but you have to go with an organized tour. I didn’t have time to check this out but it sounds like an awesome experience!

This is also where the famous EXIT music festival is held each year!

things to do in Novi Sad
The fortress of Novi Sad

Eat some ćevapčići

Roughly pronounced “che-vap-chi-chi”, these sausages are the quintessential Balkan experience. Eat more than you can reasonably stomach in one of the many rostilj (barbecue restaurants) scattered throughout Novi Sad and basically anywhere in Serbia. A delicious thing you’ve got to add to your Novi Sad to do list!

A reasonable serving of ćevapčići for four
A “reasonable” serving of ćevapčići for four

Visit Fruška Gora National Park

Fruška Gora is filled with woods and hiking trails. Unfortunately, the day we rented a car, it was super rainy. It wasn’t ideal weather for hiking, but it was still beautiful to drive around in. We also stumbled across the TV tower in the middle of Fruska Gora, bombed out during the NATO bombings in 1999.

It was odd to see this giant destroyed structure arising from the middle of nowhere. If you like a side of destruction with your natural beauty, I suggest giving it a quick look before enjoying some of the many beautiful hiking trails in the area, hopefully on a day that’s not rainy.

The abandoned TV tower in Fruska Gora outside of Novi Sad
The abandoned TV tower in Fruska Gora outside of Novi Sad

Tour the wineries and monasteries surrounding Novi Sad

One of the most interesting things to do in Novi Sad is not actually in Novi Sad, per se. Just outside Novi Sad, about a ten or fifteen minute drive, you can access tons of beautiful monasteries as well as small local wineries.

One of my favorites was Krušedol, with its bright red gatehouse and beautiful grounds. Even better, you can buy homemade local honey, rakija (the fruit-based moonshine popular throughout the Balkans), and local wines, often produced by the monks who live there.

The entry to Krusedol Monastery
The entry to Krusedol Monastery

Where to Stay in Novi Sad

Budget: Novi Sad is home to some seriously designer hostels, making it the perfect spot for travelers on a budget! I stayed at Hostel & Cafe Bar Rookies, because I was doing the Balkan Backpacker route and was close to receiving my free surprise! But if you’re into something a little more design-y, Varad Inn Hostel is the first boutique hostel in Novi Sad with gorgeous amenities, and prices start at a mere 9 euros. Tesla Art Hostel is also beautifully designed.

Mid-Range: Garni CitiHotel offers apartment-sized, well-designed rooms at seriously affordable costs, with a free breakfast thrown in.

Luxury: Novi Sad is not an expensive city, and even the nicest hotels in town won’t set you back much, especially if you’re sharing a room. Prezident Hotel is the nicest in town and costs less than a budget room in a Western European city.

Don’t forget travel insurance, especially if you are renting a car! I use and recommend World Nomads travel insurance whenever I’m in Europe as their rates are affordable and customizable.

Forget Belgrade! There are so many exciting things to do in Novi Sad, Serbia if you're planning a trip through the Balkans. Check out this colorful city!

Table Rock Jungle Lodge: The Most Sustainable Eco Lodge in Belize

Off a dusty road a few miles out of the town of San Ignacio, Belize, you’ll find Table Rock Jungle Lodge.

This is this nature-loving girl’s kind of place: orchards packed with ripe oranges greet you as you approach the lodge, with a few donkeys strewn about nibbling the grass in the sun to add to the pastoral charm.

Cabañas are nestled unobtrusively between the trees, each with their own hammock and hanging lounge chairs. The only sounds are the birds — and the occasional unearthly sounds of the howler monkeys who call this jungle home, too. A short walk away is the river, where you can borrow a free canoe or tube and enjoy the persistent Belizean sunshine. Also, have I mentioned there are pet donkeys?

Honey, I’m home.

Rooms and Grounds

Table Rock Jungle Lodge is comfortable, but not fussy.

Their commitment to eco-friendliness and sustainability presides over all. You won’t find air conditioning, hair dryers, and robes here.

What you will find, however, is a thoughtfully designed room with high ceilings that keep the rooms breezy and cool, with high-efficiency ceiling fans helping to keep air flowing.

A comfortable four poster bed with soft sheets, a couch and table to lounge at, filtered water available in two giant glass jugs and a few Belizean welcome gifts — locally made cinnamon soap, hot sauce, and a mini bottle of rum.

The latter two which I, in peak genius, turned into a killer cocktail with some of the oranges on the property (a knife and cutting board is provided in each room to encourage you to pick fruit from the farm at your leisure).

Welcome to the simple life in Belize.

Sustainability

I met with Colleen, the lovely woman who owns Table Rock, and chatted with her about the sustainability practices of her eco lodge. After marveling at our similar career paths before opting for a life on the lam (we were both once special education teachers back in the U.S.), I learned about Table Rock’s 100-plus riverside acres powered by their impressive innovative electrical grid — a project many years in the making.

Nearly 100% of the energy used in the lodge is provided by renewable solar energy, which is gathered during the day and stored in battery cells for days with a little less sunlight. To keep the energy use down, the rooms don’t have air conditioning (nor do they need it, thanks to the high thatched-roof designs and ceiling fans which circulate the air).

They also don’t have regular power outlets in the room: only USBs. Power outlets and wifi are available in the hammocked palapa, where you can fiddle away on your devices if you really need to (like this blogger/admitted Internet addict does).

High-energy tasks, such as running the laundry, do require supplemental power in the form of diesel generators. The hot water showers use on-demand water pressure-activated butane power to heat, which is a far more efficient set-up than traditional water heaters. Other than that, Table Rock is virtually completely powered by the sun and completely self-sustaining.

In the spirit of self-sufficiency, Table Rock Jungle Lodge also supplies the majority of their tap water from collected rain water, uses fresh fruit and vegetables from their farm (you’re always welcome to collect any fruit anywhere on the property — I made myself fresh squeezed orange juice every day!), and fresh free-range eggs from their chickens.

Social Responsibility

In addition to being eco-friendly, Table Rock also is making a concerted effort to be “socially green,” as Colleen put it. The staff is entirely Belizean and often local from the nearest villages, like nearby Cristo Rey. The goods in the gift shop are 100% Belizean and local, and Table Rock purchases locally produced food, beverages, and supplies whenever possible.

As a result, the food is especially delicious, and fairly priced for the quality. If you don’t have a car, you’ll have to eat your meals at Table Rock unless you’re doing a tour. Luckily, I didn’t mind — at $10 for breakfast and coffee and $25 for a two-course gourmet dinner, I found it exceptionally reasonable, particularly for Belize.

I especially was grateful that they honored my bananaphobia and subbed out grilled pineapple for the grilled banana on my bacon-topped French toast!

Table Rock also contributes to Pack for a Purpose, an organization that encourages travelers to use a small amount of their suitcase to bring items specifically requested by the local community. Table Rock collects educational supplies for the village school, working in partnership with the school to understand their specific needs rather than deciding on behalf of the school what is needed.

Sometimes despite best intentions, “voluntourists” can do more harm than good, giving items of little use or things that seem benign (like gum or candy) but can actually be socially or environmentally harmful. Therefore these projects like Pack for a Purpose are extremely useful for local communities and a great way to travel more responsibly in developing countries.

5 Things You Must Pack for Belize

I’ve written an entire Belize packing list but if you just want the essentials, here’s what I think are the absolute essentials.

  • Mosquito repellent & after-care: Belize has a tropical climate with mosquitos year-round, particularly in the rainy season. Zika, dengue fever, malaria, and chikungunya have all been reported there. While there’s no reason to cancel your trip on account of it, protect yourself with mosquito repellent (as a back-up, I carry around a few mosquito repellent wipes with me in my purse in case I forget to apply spray before leaving or that I can apply after swimming). It’s also inevitable that you won’t leave without a few bites, so bring some after-bite relief too (this is hard to find in Belize).
  • Full-size travel towel: This travel towel is full-size so it’s big enough to use as a beach towel, thin enough to pack up super small for your luggage, and it dries super quickly in Belize’s humid climate.
  • A guidebook: I use travel blogs a lot when I’m on the road but I also love having a guidebook to give me more specific, thoroughly researched information. Lonely Planet is my go-to guidebook and Lonely Planet Belize is no exception. I usually buy the Kindle version, but paper versions are also great fun to peruse.
  • GoPro: If you go snorkeling or cave tubing or ziplining, you’re going to want a way to capture all of that action! A GoPro Hero 6 is currently the highest-quality option, but if you’re on a budget, the GoPro Session is also an excellent choice. Be aware that you need to buy protective casing if you want to take either of these cameras diving. They are only waterproof to 10 meters, and you’ll exceed that if you dive (most dives are at least 15 meters or so).
  • Finally, don’t forget travel insurance! Whether you’re scuba diving, caving, ziplining through the jungle or just relaxing on the beach, don’t forget to purchase travel insurance!  It’ll protect you in case of accident, injury, lost luggage, theft, or any other disaster that could befall your trip. I have been a paying customer of World Nomads for two years and recommend them highly. I’ve included a way to get a free quote below.

What do you think? Can you forgo your hair dryer and in-room wifi for a few days of off-the-grid sustainability? Or do you like your creature comforts when you travel?

Note: I was a guest of Table Rock Jungle Lodge, and they provided me with two nights’ complimentary accommodation in order to review the hotel. All opinions are strictly my own.

9 Offbeat Things to Do in Nunavut, the Canadian Arctic

The sparsely populated Canadian Arctic

Welcome to another installment of my guest post series, “Offbeat Travel.” This time, I bring you Dawn Nicholson of 5 Lost Together who is sharing her experience in a tiny town called Taloyoak in Northern Canada’s Nunavut territory, located in the Arctic Circle. Read on below!

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My home country of Canada is a very popular travel destination, especially this year when we are celebrating 150 years as a nation.  Most travelers are overwhelmed by the sheer size of Canada, which can make it difficult to see the varied regions, from the Canadian Rockies to the vast Arctic regions.

Since most Canadians live around the 49th parallel, near the US border, this is where most tourists spend their time.  However, the majority of Canada’s land mass is sparsely habited wilderness that few travelers get to see.

For us southern Canadians, we get a good laugh out of visitors that want to see icebergs and polar bears on their visit to Canada.  You have to fly many hours north to see these quintessential Canadian icons and very few Canadians or tourists make it up to the Canadian Arctic, also called “The Great White North.”

Flying to the Canadian Arctic in Nunavut

I was lucky enough to visit a small community in Nunavut as a teacher accompanying high school students on an exchange last year.  This allowed us unprecedented access to the community and people as we were guests, not tourists.  I feel so fortunate to have been able to visit this remote part of Canada and most importantly to learn about the Inuit people and culture of Canada.

If you do find yourself in a remote Canadian Arctic fly-in community, you will be rewarded by some truly unique and fantastic experiences.

Highlights of the Canadian Arctic

1. See the Arctic Landscape in Nunavut

It is surreal to look out over the landscape and take in the Arctic permafrost.  Since you are above the tree line, the horizon of white stretches on indefinitely.  With no noticeable landmarks outside each settlement, it is a wonder how the Inuit navigate the land.

The sparsely populated Canadian Arctic

2. Experience Inuit Culture

The Inuit are the indigenous people of the region and have lived in this harsh environment for thousands of years.  The Canadian territory of Nunavut was created in 1999 as part of a lands claim process between the government and Inuit people.  While the Inuit no longer live a nomadic lifestyle in igloos, the culture is being carefully preserved.

Elders in the community are revered and play an important role in maintaining traditional ways.  It is interesting to see the blend of modern society and traditional ways in the community.  Traditional clothing made of sealskin and furs are sewed carefully be the women of the community.  Hunting, ice fishing and going out on the land are important parts of life here still.

3. See the Northern Lights

The Northern Lights or Aurora Borealis is on most people’s bucket list.  You actually don’t have to travel all the way up to Nunvaut in the Canadian Arctic to see this amazing phenomenon.  There are many places in northern Canada to view them during the winter months.  In fact, below the Arctic circle is often thought to be better for viewing than above.  Seeing the Northern Lights will require some patience to get the conditions just right.

4. Eat Traditional Foods

For centuries, the Inuit have lived off a diet rich in meat and fat to sustain them through the extreme winters.  Packaged food and fresh vegetables are now flown in regularly, but traditional foods still play an important role in Inuit communities.

Arctic char is a delicious fish that is a popular staple in the Arctic and is often eaten raw or in a stew.  Caribou and musk ox are also popular and easy for visitors to sample.

For the more adventurous eaters, you can try seal and even polar bear.  It may sound barbaric eating these animals, but Nunavut’s small population and careful quotas show that it can be done sustainably.

5. Go Ice Fishing in the Canadian Arctic

I visited in May and when we went ice fishing the ice in Nunavut was still over 2.5 meters deep.  The Inuit are skilled at using augers to drill the holes for ice fishing, but they still use a simple dowel with line and hook.  Ice fishing requires a lot of patience, so make sure you come prepared with hot drinks and very warm clothes.

Ice fishing in the Canadian Arctic

6. Experience Extreme Days and Nights

Days where the sun almost never sets makes you realize how close to the North Pole you are in the Canadian Arctic.  There is something about watching the sun set at 1 am in the morning over the frozen tundra that is simply magical.  It can be a challenge to sleep in the “summer” months and blackout blinds are a must.  Likewise, in winter you will need to be prepared for hardly any daylight in Nunavut.

Be sure to pack warmly and include plenty of winter clothes!


7. Go Winter Camping to the Extreme

Conditions are extremely unforgiving and harsh in the Canadian Arctic and it takes winter camping to a whole new level.  With Inuit guides, camping out on the land is a truly unique experience.  Historically, the Inuit have used dog sled teams to move around on the land. Now, they use snowmobiles and kamatiks, a sled that is pulled by a snowmobile.

8. See an Igloo Being Built

Igloos are symbolic of the far north of Canada and for hundreds of years been used to create homes and shelters out of compacted snow.  Building an igloo takes an incredible amount of skill to construct.  They are exceptionally strong and provide excellent protection from the cold and wind. The Inuit no longer use these for housing in Nunavut, but are working on passing this tradition down to the next generation.

9. See the Wildlife

Polar bear tours are very popular from Churchill, Manitoba and in the Spring you can even see newborn cubs.  Further north, you can see migratory animals like caribou, musk ox, belugas and narwhals.  Unfortunately, since we didn’t do any tours in Nunavut, the only wildlife we saw were skins and furs.

Snowmobiling in Nunavut Arctic Circle

Planning Your Trip to the Canadian Arctic

An Arctic trip is almost impossible to do independently and will require booking a tour to be able to experience these Arctic highlights in Nunavut.  Entry points to the Canadian Arctic are Yellowknife, Iqaluit, and Churchill.  There are small cruise ships that travel into the Northwest Passage in the summer months and visit a number of wildlife hotspots and Inuit communities.

Be prepared to spend some money to reach this remote area of the world as flights and tours are not cheap.  However, you will be getting to see an area of Canada that few people have seen and experienced.

About: Dawn Nicholson loves traveling and blogging about her adventures traveling and living overseas with her three kids at www.5losttogether.com.  She has visited over 50 countries and believes strongly in traveling now with kids by whatever and any means possible – backpacking, sailing or living as expats overseas. You can follow her adventures and musings on Facebook and Instagram

Note: This post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase something using one of these links, I will receive a small commission at no added cost to you. No BS – I only recommend accommodations, services, and products I truly believe in.

Experience the Canadian Arctic in Nunavut. Build igloos, go ice fishing, go snowmobiling, and see the elusive Northern lights if you're lucky