Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Lisbon has become a bit of a poster child for mass tourism these days.
Everyone seems to come to the city just to do the exact same thing as everyone else… and suffers in the crowds for it.
The typical one day in Lisbon itinerary goes something like this: snap some photos on Pink Street, ride the iconic 28 tram, and wait in line for fresh pastel de nata (OK, the last one is entirely worth it).
And that’s great to get an introduction to Lisbon…. but what about when you want to see a little more of the city?
Visiting Lisbon off the beaten path means getting away from the crowds (what’s that Sartre quote? Hell is other tourists?) and seeing a side of the city that is a bit protected from mass tourism.
For example, if you’ve ever been to the ruins of a castle before, you can safely skip the Castelo de San Jorge: the most interesting part of which is its view.
You can get basically the same view at the nearby and far less touristy Miradouro da Nossa Senhora do Monte.
The famous elevators are also worth passing over — I only took one when I had a sprained ankle and was trying to hobble my way through the city in spite of it.
Instead, I sought out some alternative Lisbon hidden gems, things that wouldn’t necessarily make it on most guides to the city. Here are 5 of my favorite off the beaten path Lisbon activities!
SIP, SHOP, & EAT AT LX FACTORY
LX Factory is Lisbon’s hipster utopia, a converted fabric factory that’s been turned into an urban playground for the city’s young crowd.
In this multi-functional space, you’ll find everything from coffee shops to art galleries to delicious restaurants to funky bookstores.
A few restaurants worth noting in LX factory are Sushi Factory, which serves up atypical sushi creations (not for Japanese food purists!) and Cantina LX, which serves up Portuguese food with a fancy, contemporary twist – and delicious local craft beers and wines to match.
I wanted to check out Rio Maravilha, which has a 4th-floor location serving up Brazilian food (mmm, coxinhas) with stunning views over the Tejo River and Lisbon’s Golden Gate Bridge lookalike… but it was closed for a private event when I was there.
My favorite place in LX Factory, though, is the excellent bookstore Ler Devagar, which means “read slowly” in Portuguese. It’s an incredibly photogenic bookstore with an excellent selection of books in both English and Portuguese.
STROLL THROUGH THE PEACEFUL CEMITERIO DO ALTO DO SAO JOAO
Lisbon’s cemeteries are quite beautiful, and visiting one is definitely among one of the more unique off the beaten path Lisbon experiences.
There are two large cemeteries in the city that were built in the 1830s, during an epidemic of cholera that decimated Lisbon.
The Cemiterio do Alto do Sao Joao served the eastern part of Lisbon, whereas Prazeres was reserved for the western part.
Both cemeteries are still in use, with beautiful funerary architecture that is quite unique.
Rather than having gravestones under the ground, the cemeteries feature a number of mausoleums and tombs that house an entire family of coffins.
The cemetery almost works as if a city: the “houses” are numbered and the “streets” are all given names. It’s beautifully landscaped, with jacarandas and cypress trees and other beautiful flora.
EAT DELICIOUS AFRICAN FOOD
Portugal had one of the longest-lasting empires in the world, spanning nearly six centuries from the establishment of its first colony in Ceuta in 1415 up until 1999, when Portugal ceded Macao back to China.
Of course, six centuries of colonial rule don’t go by without brutality, and the War of Liberation fought in Portugal’s African colonies was no exception.
It lasted nearly 15 years, only culminating in 1974, long after most English and French colonies had won their independence.
Since independence, there has still been a lot of cultural interchange between Portugal and its former colonies, particularly in the form of food.
If you’re a fan of trying hard-to-find ethnic cuisines, Lisbon is a gastronomic goldmine!
I got to try two different cuisines that were brand-new to me (a rarity when you spend nine years in New York eating your way through the city’s food scene) in just a matter of two weeks in Portugal: Mozambican and Cape Verdean.
I had a memorable Mozambican meal at Cantinho do Aziz and can recommend their matapa, vegetable curry, and makoufe.
But even better was the Cape Verdean food I tried at Anastacia – the cachupa was absolutely incredible and hands-down one of the best meals I ate in Lisbon.
There are also Angolan restaurants worth seeking out, but unfortunately, I didn’t get a chance to try any on my last visit to Lisbon!
GAWK AT TILES AT THE MUSEO DOS AZULEJOS
While Porto is the best-known city in Portugal for its intricate tilework, you can get a taste of this beautiful and distinctly Portuguese art form in Lisbon at the Museo Dos Azulejos.
As it’s located a bit outside of the historical center, it’s often skipped by tourists, which is why I rate this as one of the true Lisbon hidden gems.
The museum traces the history of tile work in Portugal back to Moorish influence and the beautiful Islamic tiles that were common in mosques from this region.
It explored the evolution of Portuguese tiles over the centuries, from the transition from the Islamic calligraphy tiles to the blue-and-white tiles that come together to form large-scale murals that you see all over Portugal today.
They also showcased new takes on Portuguese tilework from contemporary artists, who continue the legacy with their own unique modern spin.
Don’t miss the beautiful “Panorama of Lisbon” on the top floor, where an entire room is dedicated to an azulejo reproduction of Lisbon’s skyline with its most important features all identified.
CHECK OUT THE BEAUTIFUL (AND FREE) FILM MUSEUM
One of my favorite Lisbon hidden gems is the Portuguese Cinemateca located near Marquês de Pombal.
There’s a free film museum with rotating exhibits and old cinematography equipment, as well as an excellent bookstore that features a huge selection of film-related literature.
The building itself is beautiful and the interior architecture is worth a visit alone: I loved the Moorish detailing inside the townhouse.
There are some theaters on the ground floor if you’re in the mood to catch a movie, or you can simply explore the 2nd-floor museum and bookstore and have a drink at the café there.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
If you’re planning a desert trip from Marrakech, there are a lot of different options, and it can be quite confusing to say the least.
There are a lot of words bandied about – Zagora, Merzouga, Ouarzazate, Sahara – and it can be a bit much to decipher if you’re not familiar with Morocco’s geography.
When I was planning my trip to Morocco, I spent a lot of time researching the best desert tours from Marrakech, which was where I landed.
I ended up picking a Sahara desert tour which, ultimately, in fact never brought me to the Sahara at all (to be honest — most tours don’t).
According to the slayer of dreams and bringer of realness, Wikipedia, the dunes I visited were actually part of the “semi-arid Pre-Saharan Steppes and not part of the Sahara desert which lies some distance to the south.” Oops.
So, first things first, let’s clear up the terminology: most ‘Sahara’ tours bring you to Erg Chebbi and its surrounding ergs (massive sand dunes) which are not quite the Sahara per se, but are pretty damn impressive and pretty damn close.
These ‘Sahara’ tours in fact bring you to the tourist center of Merzouga, where you then embark on camelback into the ergs.
However, I spent several years of my life blissfully unaware of this fact, and most tourists will as well, and I think you’re basically close enough to say you’ve been to the Sahara Desert if you’ve been to Merzouga… but that’s up to you!
Zagora vs. Merzouga: What’s the Better Fit for Your Trip?
Choose Zagora if…
… You’re on a short trip
The Zagora desert is about 6 hours away from Marrakech, as opposed to Merzouga, which is about 10. There are basically zero options for a day trip or one night stay to Merzouga/the “Sahara” short of booking a private driver, and that would be so much driving time that I wouldn’t recommend that.
If you only have, say, 4 days in Marrakech and you want to see the desert, I’d recommend opting for a Zagora tour as it’s shorter and only will take up two days and one night of your trip, as opposed to a Merzouga desert trip which would take up nearly all of your time in Morocco.
However, bear in mind that the Zagora desert doesn’t have proper dunes in the same way that Merzouga has and is more of a rocky desert. While it is, literally, a desert, it likely won’t live up to your dreamy expectations of massive, coral-orange sand dunes. Deserts come in a variety of shapes and sizes, and the Zagora desert will not have dunes as you might expect.
… You’re on a tight budget
That said, because the desert trip from Marrakech to Zagora and back is far shorter and requires one less night of accommodation, it’s a bit cheaper than the other options (and involves less expenses that end up adding up, such as ‘suggested’ tips and guides and overpriced lunches)
If you want the chance to ride a camel and visit a rocky desert in Morocco but budget is a concern, I’d actually recommend doing just a day trip to the Palmeraie (there’s a camel + quad bike option that looks fun!) instead – it’s much cheaper and the surroundings aren’t that drastically different.
… You are flying in and out of Marrakech and don’t want to backtrack much
Because Zagora is closer to Marrakech than Merzouga, it is an easier option (read: about 8+ fewer hours driving) if you are flying in and out of Marrakech.
However, I generally recommend that you fly into one airport in Morocco or out of another to avoid tedious backtracking. Personally, I flew into Marrakech and then made my way up to Tangier and took the ferry to Spain, which is another common route that many people opt for. My itinerary looked like this: Marrakech – Sahara – Fes – Chefchaouen – Tangier – ferry to Tarifa, Spain.
If you’re going back to Marrakech, say, to fly back out or possibly to visit Essaouira or another coastal town, going to Zagora may be smarter (but again, I’d actually probably recommend the Palmerie instead, as it’s way closer and fairly similar in terms of landscape).
Choose Merzouga if…
… You want to say you’ve been to the Sahara Desert
Sand this orange? I’m going ahead and calling it the Sahara.
While, technically speaking, Merzouga is the gateway to the Sahara Desert and the ergs (sand dunes) you’ll find here are part of the “Pre-Saharan Steppe,” in popular speaking, everyone considers the dunes outside of Merzouga to be the Sahara Desert.
And looking around at the impressive sand dunes you’ll find everywhere, it’s not hard to see why that distinction is pretty much just nitpicking. You’re surrounded by sand and 150-meter-high dunes: go ahead and call it the Sahara (I did).
… You want the true camel-in-the-desert experience
Yes, the sands really are this color!
While I didn’t personally visit the Zagora Desert, I’ve read all the reviews and most people were a bit disappointed in their trip.
Mostly, they were disappointed that their camel ride was basically along a highway, and only the last bit of their ride went into the actual ‘sandy’ part of the Zagora.
That will definitely not be the case with Merzouga, where you immediately embark into impossibly high sand dunes that look picture-perfect and seem to go on endlessly.
Honestly, if you’re going to go 6+ hours into the desert, you may as well go all the way.
… You want to continue onwards to Fes and Northern Morocco
It’s quite a waste of time in my view to go from Marrakech to Merzouga and then back to Marrakech, unless you are flying in and out of Marrakech as your only option and aren’t planning to do anything else in Morocco.
Far better, in my mind, is to use Merzouga as an inconvenient triangulation point for future Morocco exploration. There are tours that go from Marrakech to Merzouga to Fes (this is the tour I recommend if you want to do that route).
It’s what I did when I visited Morocco and it saved me a full day of transit compared to going back to Marrakech and continuing onward. And since transportation in Morocco isn’t exactly the most comfortable, that’s saying something.
Choose either Zagora or Merzouga for…
… An incredible night under a starry sky
My astrophotography skills are nil, so this is definitely a stock photo, but I can tell you firsthand: even to the naked eye, the sky in the dunes of Merzouga is INCREDIBLE
Whether you opt for Merzouga or Zagora, either way, you’re far away from the light pollution and hustle and bustle of urban Moroccan life. If you’re lucky enough to have a cloudless sky, you’ll enjoy some of the most beautiful stars of your life.
However, the further you go east into Morocco towards the Algerian border, the more remote it gets and therefore the less light pollution you’ll find. If you’re into astrophotography and want to take some amazing photos of the Milky Way, I’d definitely choose Merzouga over Zagora as the stars there are truly incredible and worth the 3-day trek again.
… To stop at the Atlas Mountains, Ait Ben Haddou, and Ouarzazate
The beautiful Atlas Mountains on the way to Merzouga from Marrakech
The tours follow a fairly similar itinerary and you’ll get to stop off in the Atlas Mountains, the UNESCO-listed kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou where Game of Thrones and Lawrence of Arabia were filmed, and Ouarzazate a.k.a. the Moroccan Universal Studios.
I loved Ait Ben Haddou and stopping in the Atlas Mountains, however briefly, so I was grateful that these were included. My trip to Merzouga also included a stop in the stunning Dades Gorge (trips to Zagora don’t) and I felt this was definitely a plus that the trip to Merzouga offered.
… An incredible but challenging experience
I don’t want to burst your bubble when planning an epic desert trip from Morocco but no matter which you choose, both desert excursions present their fair share of challenges. For one, both include several long days of driving – Zagora involves two looong car days, whereas Merzouga is three long days of driving with the final day being almost entirely all on the road. Also, camels hurt like HELL to ride.
Both are tiring and involve quite a few annoying quirks, such as constantly being upsold things like guides, unnecessary scarves that are supposedly ‘mandatory’ for the desert, and expensively mediocre food. Keep of all this in mind (I go into more detail on my Morocco desert guide). Don’t let these things ruin your trip, but be realistic about what to expect and you’ll be far less annoyed.
Just Tell Me Which To Pick: Zagora or Merzouga?
Merzouga. Honestly, I don’t think that going all the way to Zagora is worth it, especially when you can get to Merzouga which is a lot more impressive with just a little more time and patience.
If you have limited time, I’d probably opt for doing a camel ride through the Moroccan Palmeraie (there’s a camel + quad bike tour option as well as a sunset camel ride option). It’s a half-day excursion giving you plenty of time in Marrakech without the hassle of heading all the way into a lackluster desert.
The Zagora desert can’t quite compare to Merzouga
If you’ve settled on Zagora, then I’d recommend this tour by Ando Travel (not sponsored, just the best-rated option). They have one of the better reputations among tour operators in Morocco and they have a 4.3/5 rating on GetYourGuide, which is among the highest for this specific tour type. As always, read through recent reviews before committing.
However, I’d really urge you to pick Merzouga vs. Zagora if you’re picking between those two.
In that case, I’m still sticking with Ando Travel as I’ve researched them pretty thoroughly and they seem to be well-reviewed by solo female travelers (I was nearly assaulted on my desert tour, so you have to be careful with who you book with).
As for going to Merzouga, this tour goes from Marrakech to Merzouga and back and has an overall pretty solid review (4.4/5 stars with over a thousand reviews). I feel comfortable recommending them to couples, families, and solo travelers, and you can check out the most recent reviews here to ensure nothing has changed since the time I wrote this article.
However, what I would recommend most strongly if you can is to plan to go from Marrakech to Merzouga and onwards to Fes and Chefchaouen. Chefchaouen in particular was the highlight of my Morocco experience and since it’s pretty much Instagram heaven, I’m sure it features heavily on many people’s hopeful Morocco itineraries.
In that case, rather than doubling back via Marrakech, I’d recommend finding a tour that moves onward to Fes. That used to be annoying, and when I did it I had to negotiate with my tour company to figure out a driver to take me onwards to Fes (which, surprise surprise, I got cheated on… which is why you really should never book a trip in a souk and instead use reliable booking services like GetYourGuide or Viator). Ando Travel also organizes this kind of trip, and I’m happy to recommend them here.
And if you’re going to be in Marrakech, be sure to check out my Marrakech itinerary for how to spend 3 perfect days in Marrakech.
Where to Stay in Marrakech
Since I’m assuming you’re starting your desert tour in Marrakech, here are my top picks for where to stay in Marrakech if you haven’t yet figured out your accommodations.
Budget: Nondescript on the outside, Riad Dar Maria is gorgeous and cozy on the inside. Updated design makes the indoor courtyard a lovely place to relax, and comfortable private rooms with AC offer excellent value for the price. The riad is family-run and treats you like one of their own. Highly recommended by fellow travelers with a 9.5 average rating on Booking.com. Click here to see lowest prices and current availability.
Mid-range: The lovely Riad Enchanté lives up to its name – it will truly delight and enchant you. With stunning tilework, a rooftop terrace (with jacuzzi!), large rooms with AC, and amazing attention to detail (check out those lovely wooden doors), you’ll probably never want to leave this homey, delightful riad. Click here to see lowest prices and current availability.
Luxury: For five-star comfort at not insanely outrageous prices you can’t do much better than Villa Lavande, a traditional riad with a comfortable in-house hammam, a gorgeous pool, air conditioning (a must if you travel in summer), and helpful staff. Cooking lessons are available on-site in case you fancy learning how to make your own tajine.. or you can simply eat at the in-house restaurant beloved by guests. It’s located in the medina but away from the hustle and bustle, the best of both worlds. Click here to see lowest prices and current availability.
More Morocco Travel Resources
I’ve written quite a bit to help you plan the perfect trip to Morocco! First, start with my Morocco travel planning checklist – it walks you through every step of the planning process.
Next, check out my Morocco packing list with specific advice for what women should wear in Morocco.
If you are starting your trip in Marrakech, like most people do, I have a guide to the best riads in Marrakech on any budget, as well as a guide to spending 3 days in Marrakech with recommended tours and outings.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
If you’re planning a trip to Switzerland, beyond figuring your itinerary and what the best places to visit are, you’re probably wondering what to wear in Switzerland.
This Switzerland packing list is designed for all seasons, with sections for men’s and women’s clothing.
It’s designed to help you decide what to bring to Switzerland on your trip with a focus on packing light, multipurpose items and leaving unnecessary weight behind.
Switzerland Packing List: What to Pack Everything In
Traveling light in Switzerland!
Personally, I prefer to carry a backpack for travel.
Having seen too many of my friends struggle with enormous, unwieldy rolling suitcases, I personally recommend that you bring a well-designed travel backpack if it’s comfortable for you.
This is especially true if you travel in winter to places like Montreux, Geneva, Zurich, Zermatt, etc.
You may end up trying to roll your suitcase through the freshly laid snow, which is never fun (take it from an idiot who brought a rolling suitcase to Helsinki in winter!).
This bag is 45L and has three main compartments: one for a laptop and other flat objects, one giant rectangular compartment perfect for packing cubes stuffed with clothing, and one smaller compartment with pockets for passports, pens, odds and ends, etc. that I stash all my extras in.
It also has one small outer zipper pocket for anything you want quick access to.
It’s quite comfortable to wear, with a padded hip belt and comfort-molding shoulder straps complete with a chest strap so that you can distribute weight perfectly across your body in the event that you need to wear your backpack for longer than usual.
While rolling suitcases are a no-no for most of Europe due to narrow cobblestoned streets, Switzerland is way more accessible than many other European cities.
Therefore, if you’re traveling Switzerland in late spring, summer, or early fall, a rolling suitcase may be a good idea.
I prefer rolling suitcases with four wheels, like this Samsonite spinner, as you don’t have to drag them behind you as you do with a two-wheeler, but it can glide with you at the airport or train station.
I also swear by packing cubes. If you haven’t used packing cubes before, get ready for a packing revolution.
These helpful zippered bags are a miracle when it comes to organizing your clothing, keeping everything from bursting out every time you dare open your backpack or suitcase.
I personally use these packing cubes and love them to the ends of the earth.
What to Wear in Switzerland for Women
Summer outfit of black tank, light-wash jeans, and ankle boots
The clothes that I recommend be on a women’s Switzerland packing list change a bit based on season, so check my recommendations below.
Because travel to Switzerland often involves high mountain trains (I was as high as 3,150 meters during my trip, and the temperature was just above freezing) and glaciers, even in the summer, you actually will want to bring much of the same things for summer as you would for spring or fall.
Meanwhile, winter is just straight-up cold no matter where you go, so you’ll want to pack really warm for that.
Summer/Fall/Spring
1 rain and windproof jacket: Especially if you’re visiting mountains in Switzerland, the weather can be quite unpredictable, whether you visit in summer, spring, or fall (spring being the rainiest, generally).
I recommend bringing a durable jacket that will keep you warm against wind and dry against rain. I love my Marmot PreCip rain jacket and wear it all the time – here I am with it in Nendaz, Switzerland, in July, where it came in handy on a rainy day as we mountain biked around its trails.
3-5 tees: In the summer and on warmer days in fall and spring, you’ll be grateful that you have some lighter layers. I generally go for dark colors to disguise sweating.
3-5 sweaters and long sleeve tees: Thin but warm is your best bet – as Switzerland travel involves lots of mountains where the weather can be a lot cooler than down in the cities, you’ll get use out of these even in the summer! I’d bring 3 in summer and 5 in fall/spring.
2-3 pair jeans: I was grateful I had jeans and black ponte pants even in the summer in Switzerland
2 pairs shorts: That said, I also did get some use out of my shorts on lower-altitude hikes and sunny city days in Switzerland!
1-3 pairs leggings: For cool weather days, travel days, and mountain days. I’d bring 1 pair in summer and 3 in fall or spring.
3+ comfortable summer dresses: For cute photos and comfortable city days. You can wear with leggings in spring/fall or without in summer.
1 pair flip flops or sandals: If you are staying in a hostel or hotel and just want something quick to put on your feet, I find it helpful to have slip-on sandals, even on days where the weather is slightly cold in spring/fall (though you’ll get good use out of them in summer).
I’m obsessed with my Birkenstocksbut rubber flip flops will do, especially if you are staying in a hostel and need to use communal showers.
1 pair hiking boots: Hiking boots will serve you well in Switzerland, and honestly, the right pair can look quite cute.
I love my Ahnu bootsbut if you have a pair at home already bring those so you don’t have to break them in. Sneakers could work in a pinch, but I much prefer boots for the ankle stability.
Trust me – I fell on my ass wearing sneakers on Gornergrat about 10 seconds after this photo was taken because my dumb self didn’t bring hiking boots and broke my camera.
Gornergrat – 1, Shoes – 0
1 thin down jacket: Nights and even days on the mountaintops can get really cold, so a small packable down like the UNIQLO ultra-light down (cheaper knockoff available here) would be a great but tiny addition to your Switzerland packing list.
I got use out of mine even in July when I went up to the Gornergrat as it’s 3,000 meters above sea level.
Cute travel daypack : I prefer using a daypack to a purse when I travel and I always bring the same backpack with me on literally every single trip. I am completely obsessed with the PacSafe Citysafe backpack.
It’s cute, functional, slash-proof, and with locking zippers that make it virtually impossible for a pickpocket to get into your bag without you noticing.
Switzerland is super safe so this isn’t really a major concern, but I still love having that extra peace of mind.
Winter
2-3 thermal tops: I swear by these 32 Degrees thermal layers and recommend getting 2 or 3, as they’re so warm they can get kind of sweaty.
3 warm sweaters to layer on top: Wool blends work great, and thermal layers make a nice barrier if you find wool itchy like I do. However, I’m too sensitive to wool to even wear it over a layer, so I love H&M for warm, acrylic winter sweaters.
2 pairs fleece lined leggings: These are my favorite fleece leggings – so so so warm!
2 pairs jeans: Wear these over your leggings for extra warmth! This won’t work if your jeans are super tight, so I’d bring jeans with a bit of give.
1 heavy jacket: I recommend my beloved North Face parka, but any warm jacket will work. Look for something that is lined with down, has a hood, and is waterproof and windproof.
Me and my beloved North face on a winter trip to Istanbul
2 bras: Regular or sports bra – it doesn’t matter under all the layers.
7+ pairs of underwear: However much you think you’ll need for your trip, so you don’t have to do laundry at your hotel, which would inevitably be INSANELY expensive in Switzerland.
Bathing suit: Many hotels in the mountains of Switzerland have saunas and steam rooms. Don’t forget your bathing suit or you’ll feel left out!
Sandals/flip flops: For the sauna or walking around in your hotel if you don’t want to put on your proper boots
2 pairs gloves: I recommend having two pairs, one lightweight pair of touchscreen-friendly gloves and one more heavy pair of waterproof gloves for things like playing in the snow.
1 super-warm infinity scarf: I love the scarves that you can wrap super close to your face, like this one. Never underestimate the power of a scarf for keeping you warm!
Waterproof boots: Unless you’re doing heavy-duty snow trekking and snow-shoeing, you don’t necessarily need proper snow boots: just something waterproof and with good traction.
I first bought a pair of Blondo waterproof leather boots in 2008… which means I celebrated my 10-year anniversary with them last year. However, if you plan on doing a lot of hiking in the snow, you may want a proper snow boot. The Elsa snow boot by KEEN is waterproof, insulated, and looks super cozy.
Warm socks: no matter how insulated your shoe is, it won’t do much good if you are wearing thin, crappy cotton socks. I invested in these Smartwool socks after much hemming and hawing about the price and I’m so glad I did.
You don’t need that many pairs because you can actually re-wear them a few times before they get smelly because wool is so odor-absorbent and magical. And even though I generally can’t tolerate wool because of itchiness, I don’t mind them on my feet.
My favorite bag!
Cute travel daypack: While traveling in Switzerland is generally safe, you won’t be immune from opportunity theft which can occur anywhere, anytime – especially in busy or crowded places.
Especially if you’re checking out the busy Christmas markets, I recommend having a secure backpack.
I use this PacSafe Citysafe backpack, which is a security bag that is actually aesthetically pleasing and not horrendous to look at.
What to Wear in Switzerland for Men
Granted, I’m not a man, but here’s what I’d recommend based off what I *think* men would need on a trip to Switzerland.
Summer/Fall/Spring
5 short sleeve Ts
3-5 long sleeve Ts or light sweaters (more in fall/spring)
2-3 pair jeans and pants
2 pairs shorts (summer only)
7+ pairs underwear, 1 for each day of your trip
flip flops or comfortable walking sandals
sneakers
hiking boots
waterproof rain jacket
swim trunks
2 thicker-weight sweaters
ultra-light down jacket
5+ pairs of socks
hat, gloves, scarves if you think you’ll need them for mountain/glacier visits
Winter
5 thick-weight sweaters, wool or similar fabric
3 thermal long-sleeve shirts for an underlayer
3 pairs thermal underwear
2-3 pairs jeans or other similar heavy-weight pants
snow or hiking boots
flip-flops for hotel/hostel use only
waterproof, windproof parka
5+ pairs of warm wool socks
swim trunks
scarf
hat
gloves
What to Pack for Switzerland (Toiletries)
Women
Hanging Toiletry Bag: After struggling to find a good way to organize my toiletries, I stumbled across this hanging toiletry bag and purchased it on a whim to give it a try… and I promptly became a product evangelist.
It’s perfect for organizing your travel toiletries like shampoo, moisturizer, make-up, hairbrushes, tweezers, etc. It has a lot of organizers and separators so you can really maximize your organization without taking up much excess space.
It fits quite a bit – it’s like the Mary Poppins bag you always needed but never knew existed. It’s wonderful for girly girl travelers like myself who have a hard time leaving make-up behind when they travel.
Sunscreen: My skin is really sensitive on my face, so I use this fancy Japanese sunscreen to prevent acne on my face. Don’t forget this – I actually got a really bad sunburn in Switzerland one day because of the altitude.
Moisturizer: The wind and the sun did a number on my skin in Switzerland and I felt like my skin got quite dry due to the sun exposure in the mountains.
I love a moisturizer with SPF for day like this one from Aveeno and then I use a thicker moisturizer like this Olay night cream for replenishing moisture over night.
Hand sanitizer: In case of a lack of soap in train stations or restaurant bathrooms, I like having hand sanitizer just in case.
LUSH solid shampoo: It’s life-changing. Just trust me. Buy online or in store from LUSH and you’ll save serious money over Amazon, but you can also source it on Amazon for convenience.
My favorite is the Seanik seaweed shampoo – it makes my hair gorgeous and it also doesn’t take up any space in my liquid toiletry allowance.
Face wipes: Great for nights when you’re too exhausted to take your make-up off properly or for a quick face clean up after a dusty hike.
Menstrual cup or your favorite tampon/pad brand (if applicable): If you have a specific brand allegiance, you may not find it in Switzerland. I switched to a Diva Cup for travel and love it!
Deodorant: I can’t rant enough about how much European deodorant sucks, plus I absolutely hate the smell of the aerosol deodorants that are so popular in Europe.
Do yourself, everyone around you, and the planet a favor and buy some decent deodorant from home. I love Secret Clinical Strength and stash up on it every time I’m home in the US, but then again, I am sweatier than most people are.
Travel-sized liquid toiletries: If you want to bring your favorite toiletries from home, I recommend these awesome reusable silicone GoToobs.
Razor + shaving cream if necessary
Lip balm with SPF: Don’t skip this as your lips can easily burn in the snowy mountain tops!
Toothbrush & toothpaste
Body wash, conditioner, lotion – anything else you usually bring!
Hair brush
Makeup, if you want
Men
shampoo (and conditioner if you use it!)
body wash
deodorant (please)
razor and shaving cream, if applicable
toothbrush & toothpaste
sunscreen & lip balm with SPF
hand sanitizer & Kleenex
What to Pack for Switzerland (Electronics & Random)
Laptop, if necessary: I bring my 13″ MacBook Air everywhere but other people may prefer a tablet or an inexpensive netbook. I work on the road so a user-friendly, lightweight laptop is a must for me.
Kindle Paperwhite: I love having a Kindle for travel but if you don’t think you’ll be doing much reading on your Switzerland trip or your flight over than you can give this a skip
Travel camera: I use a Sony A6000 because it’s lightweight for a professional caliber camera, inexpensive, and a HUGE step up from a smartphone.
Extra camera batteries: Trust me, you’ll use plenty of battery taking photos in Switzerland (and your batteries will get sapped in the cold up on the mountains as well)!
Portable hard drive: You’ll want to back up your photos to keep your memory cards uncluttered and protect your precious photos.
After my previous hard drive failed even though I never damaged it (never rely on WD My Passport) I am extra paranoid with my hard drives. I recommend Transcend hard drives instead – they are drop resistant and super sturdy.
Travel tripod: If you are serious about your photography you should invest in a sturdier tripod as wind on the mountains in Switzerland can be strong. There were some days I didn’t use my tripod because it didn’t feel steady enough in the gusts.
I have a cheap tripod from Amazon but a sturdy tripod with a hook so that you can use that to hang your camera bag on and balance the camera would be your friend on windy days.
ND filters: The size of ND filter you will need depends on the size of the lens you’ll be using so check it before buying. I use these ND filters. These are useful combined with a tripod for daytime long exposure shots, getting smooth water effects.
GoPro or similar camera for video: If you plan on doing anything adventurous like paragliding, canyon swinging, or rafting — or if you just want some easy-to-take video of your trip — then I recommend bringing something like a GoPro
Portable charger: You’ll use your phone battery more than you thought in Switzerland – whether it’s using it to take photos or videos, or to check train schedules, hotel bookings, etc.
Bring a portable charger to save yourself many headaches! Anker is a reliable brand and what I personally use – make sure you get one that can hold several charges at once so you don’t have to charge it every single night.
Adaptor: Switzerland uses a slightly different adaptor, type J (sometimes C will work, but not always). I had trouble in some of my accommodations with my standard EU plug. This is the one you want.
Headphones: I use simple iPhone headphones typically but you may want noise-canceling headphones if you are noise-sensitive.
Medicine: I actually got insanely sick in Switzerland and nearly needed to be hospitalized. I was so thankful I had my usual travel medicine kit, as I was too ill to drag myself to a pharmacy.
I always bring the following items: Pepto-Bismol tablets for standard stomach troubles, a painkiller like ibuprofen for headaches and minor pains, some sort of motion sickness tablets for boat or long car rides, and some sort of cold medicine as many countries in Europe actually don’t sell this (not sure about Switzerland but it’s nearly impossible to find in Germany and the Nordics).
Reusable water bottle: The tap water in Switzerland is drinkable everywhere and of the highest quality. If you don’t carry a reusable bottle, you will spend a ton of unnecessary money on bottled water, and you’ll waste a lot of plastic in the process as well.
I like a simple streamlined metal bottle, like this one from Klean Kanteen. If you want to further reduce your footprint, I recommend bringing along reusable tote bagsas well if you plan on doing any grocery shopping during your Iceland trip.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
The Faroe Islands are the most spectacular place I’ve ever been. The landscape looks impossibly rugged, going from jagged mountains to churning sea in what seems like an impossibly short distance. The only sign that these islands are habitable are the winding roads and the small, colorful houses that seem to cling onto this craggy landscape for dear life.
In this guide to where to stay in the Faroe Islands, I’ve worked my way from the nearest island to where you’ll land (Vágar) to the further reaches of the Faroes, culminating with the southernmost island (and one of my favorites), Suduroy. Far and away the island of Streymoy has the largest number of options, particularly in and around its capital city, Tórshavn.
In fact, if you only want to base yourself in one place in the Faroes, Tórshavn would be my pick. It’s relatively central – though to be fair, the Faroe Islands are so well-connected by road, tunnel, and ferry that no place is truly that far. Tórshavn is easily connected by ferry to other lesser-visited islands like Nolsoy, Suduroy, and Sandoy, making it possible to get off the beaten path on day trips while staying in the capital.
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Suduroy, Nolsoy, and Sandoy are all easy day trips from Torshavn!
Plus, if you’re planning on staying in hotels, Tórshavn is the place with the greatest variety of restaurants and nightlife (though to be fair, nightlife never gets that wild in Tórshavn).
However, what I personally did on my Faroes itinerary was stay in a variety of places on three different islands, making it so that I had to backtrack less and got to spend more time off the beaten path in places like Bordoy and the northern islands and Suduroy, the furthest south of the Faroes. Depending on your travel style, you’ll want to either shack up in one spot or bounce around the islands, so I’ve included stops all around the Faroes to help you pick.
Of all the places to stay in the Faroe Islands, Torshavn is the most convenient!
I’ve organized this post by island, but I’ve included the rough budget category so you can refer to that at a glance. Here is generally how I define my price categories:
$ – Budget: Has a hostel option. Each bunk should be less than $50 per person, or $100 for a private double room.
$$ – Mid-Range: No hostel option, and rooms cost between $100-200 per night for a double.
$$$ – Luxury: Private rooms from $200 per night and up.
Where to Stay in Faroes Islands: Vágar
If you’re arriving by plane, Vágar will be your first port of call in the Faroe Islands. It is not a large island, but it does have a handful of the Faroes’ most famous and photogenic spots. Namely, you won’t want to miss Gásaladur and its famous Múlafossur waterfall which flows endlessly into the Atlantic Ocean from a height of 30 meters (nearly 100 feet). This was my first stop on my Faroes trip and as it’s only about a 10-minute drive from the airport, it’d be silly to skip it!
Vágar is a great island for hikers, with two of the Islands’ best-known hikes both easily accessible. The Postman’s Hike from Bøur to Gásaladur is one of the most beautiful in the whole cluster of islands. The hike to Traelnipa, a.k.a. the “optical illusion” hike at Lake Sorvagsvatn, is one of the most spectacular hikes in the world.
Close to the only airport in the Faroe Islands – not to mention the beautiful Mulafossur Waterfall and famous Traelnipa hike as well – this is one of the few Faroes accommodation options on the island of Vágar. With a view of the most famous sea stack in the Faroes, Drangarnir, literally right outside your window, The View more than deserves its name.
Hosted by Tróndur and Anita, this is a relatively new holiday home option which they built from the ground up in 2017. However, they took pains to ensure their new cabins matched the beautiful landscape. That’s why they adhered to the old Faroese standard – a partial stone foundation, black painted walls, white window shutters, and of course, the turf roof.
While the cabins look old-fashioned and traditional from the outside, on the inside they are delightfully spacious and modern. Each cabin has a large living room (36 square meters), a well-equipped kitchen so you can cook your own meals (and a dishwasher!), a bathroom, a washer-dryer, and two bedrooms for sleeping in a cozy second-floor attic nook. Each of the four cabins can sleep four people comfortably.
There aren’t a ton of hostel options in the Faroe Islands, but Giljanes Hostel is one of the few and it’s located in beautiful Vágur as well. Most of the hostel options are on Streymoy, so if you want to stay in Vágur on a budget – whether it’s to take advantage of the beautiful hikes, catch an early ferry to Mykines, or be close to the airport – this is a great choice.
This hostel has a shared kitchen area and a cozy lounge room as well, all of which are designed with a spacious, airy Nordic design in mind. You’ll find the kitchen to be well-stocked and spacious, great for reducing costs while traveling in the Faroes as food costs can really add up here! It’s also near a bus stop on the line that goes from the airport to Tórshavn, so if you are trying to visit the Faroes without a car (difficult but possible!) it’s a great option as well.
Some rooms even have a stunning ocean view, so try to find a room with that if you at all can! There are a few single and double rooms but this is mostly a hostel. A variety of dorm configurations, co-ed and gender-segregated, are available, but so are tents if you are really on a budget during your time in the Faroe Islands! Wild camping is not permitted in the islands so this is a great and legal alternative, especially if you don’t have your own tent with you but feel like camping could be fun.
Previous guests have raved about the friendly host, the convenient location close to some of the Faroes’ best hikes, and how well-equipped the hostel is for the price.
Literally a five-minute walk from the airport, Hotel Vágar is the place to stay if you want to be close to the airport for your flight early in the morning or if you have a late arrival and just want to crash when you get to the Faroes.
There are only a few flights a day in and out of the airport, so guests have reported that they didn’t have a problem with the noise. Honestly, it’s not the most exciting place to stay in the Faroe Islands, but for certain cases it is definitely the most convenient.
The rooms are bright, clean, and spacious, with wooden floors and TVs in every room. All rooms come with their own private bathroom, and some are ‘suite’-syle with a separate area for sitting and spreading out.
Conveniently, there is also a restaurant at the hotel, which serves both international and traditional Faroese dishes on an à la carte basis. Free breakfast is included. Double rooms and family rooms (sleeping 4) are available.
Streymoy is the largest of all the 18 Faroe Islands and home to the capital city, Tórshavn. Like I said before, if you want to only pick only one place to stay in the Faroe Islands, I recommend Tórshavn.
It not only has the most Faroes accommodations options, it’s one of the places you can really get to meet local people and see what the average life of a Faroese person is like… after all, nearly half of all Faroese live in the capital. However, that’s not to say Tórshavn is built up or crowded at all.
It’s funny that the capital city of this country is literally a third of the size of the California suburb that I grew up in – one that I always thought of as “tiny.” But when you compare Tórshavn to the rest of the Faroe Islands, full of sleepy seaside villages, you’ll see what I mean when I say that it is a completely different experience than the rest of the Faroes.
One of the best-loved accommodations in the Faroe Islands, Hotel Føroyar has a fantastic location. It’s not that far from the center of Tórshavn but it offers solitude away from the bustle of downtown, with panoramic views of the Nólsoy fjord, city, and gorgeous mountains.
Meanwhile, amidst all the natural beauty, the hotel’s aesthetic is ultra-modern yet comfortable, with spacious rooms and interesting lounge areas. Every square inch of this design hotel is planned to please the senses. It was designed by the famous Danish architects, Friis & Moltke and the interior was designed by famed designers Philippe Starck and Montana. I especially love the traditional grass roof, which is just so quintessentially Faroese.
Keep in mind that this location isn’t close to the center of Tórshavn, so if you are reliant on public transportation during your stay in the Faroes it may not be the best option. You can walk to and from town but it’ll take about 30 minutes each way, with the way back from town being uphill and very steep.
However, I think it’s a great place to stay if you are renting a car and don’t want to deal with the hassles of parking in Tórshavn but want to be close to the action of the city. I stayed in the city center of Tórshavn last time and got really lucky to snag the last parking space at my hotel, but if I had to find city parking I would have been screwed.
There is no kitchen access, but you can eat delicious traditional Faroese food at their well-known restaurant, Gras, if you don’t feel like going downtown to eat at one of the restaurants in Tórshavn. It also serves international food if you’re in the mood for something more familiar.
There are a variety of rooms ranging from your standard double room to a business suite to a family room, making it one of the more versatile Faroes accommodations options. All are spacious and designed with aesthetics in mind, with luxe bathrooms that include a bathtub – perfect for soothing sore muscles after a long hike.
If you want a modern and stylish place to stay in Tórshavn just an easy walk from the center of town, visitHOMES Torshavn rooms is a good option. It’s full of stylish and new appliances and furniture; however, you sacrifice a bit of space and privacy, as it’s more like a bedroom in a house rather than a true hotel. If you enjoy meeting other travelers, however, this is more a blessing than a curse.
There is a shared kitchen and dining room that you can use, which is great for reducing your costs in the pricy Faroe Islands – though that said, these rooms aren’t exactly cheap.
However, there are a few quirks worth mentioning so you won’t be disappointed. For one, the bathroom is located separately from the room and down the hall in many instances. While there are convenient sockets located near the bed, there are no side or end tables, which would be helpful for organizing your stuff, as the rooms are on the smaller side.
There is a continental breakfast available, but it does not come included in the room price, so keep that in mind.
This cozy guesthouse, Faroe City View B&B, has a shared lounge and fully-equipped kitchen area that guests can use, which can be very useful for reducing dining costs in the Faroe Islands. The décor is not super modern, but it’s functional, spacious, and on the affordable side of the mid-range budget spectrum with most rooms hovering just over 100 euros per night.
Rooms are cozy, spacious, and well-decorated yet streamlined, with space for your luggage so you can spread out a bit. Guests have raved about the cleanliness of the rooms, the delicious free breakfast (not always a given in the Faroes!) and the relatively cheap price for Tórshavn. Keep in mind that this is a B&B, and all the rooms have a shared bathroom. This is one of the reasons why the price is low so if you can accept this quirk it’s a great choice.
When it comes to Tórshavn, the location is hard to beat: walking distance to the center, though with a bus stop right near the apartment so that you can take the (free!) city bus whenever you please. Supermarkets and restaurants are 700 meters away. This is a great choice for people looking for a budget-friendly place to stay, but not necessarily wanting to stay in a hostel or to camp.
Offering both double rooms and single rooms for a relatively affordable price, 62N Hotel is one of the most popular choices for where to stay in the Faroe Islands and is often sold out months in advance. It’s mostly because of its excellent location, close to Tórshavn’s restaurants, bars, and shops yet with plenty of parking nearby. It’s a short walk to the harbor and Tinganes, one of the most scenic areas in all of Tórshavn (a high distinction).
Guests have access to a shared kitchen, which is great for a hotel-style accommodation in Torshavn like this one as most hotels don’t have this choice and this can lower the daily cost of visiting the Faroe Islands by quite a bit. Rooms are modern and stylish, slightly on the small side but well-equipped with a working desk as well as a private bathroom in each room. Some of the rooms even have a private balcony with a sea view!
Guests rave about its speedy WiFi, its excellent location, and plentiful breakfast; the attached restaurant gets lesser reviews, so skip it and opt to cook in or eat out at one of the delicious restaurants in downtown Tórshavn (we loved Circus and Paname Café).
One of the most unique places to stay in Tórshavn, Havgrim Seaside Hotel 1948 is absolutely stunning. It’s quite close to the city yet far enough away from the hustle and bustle to provide free parking for its guests, perched high enough up to offer incredible views over Tórshavn’s harbor and the nearby island of Nolsoy.
Guests rave about the kindness of the staff and the deliciousness of breakfast, which is included in the room price. The breakfast room is lovely, with plenty of plants and cute furniture to give you the feeling that you’re eating in a dear friend’s kitchen, rather than a big hotel’s faceless dining room. The whole hotel has that same vibe to it, a place with true personality, unique down to every last detail. It’s on the less expensive side of the luxury tier as well, so it’s a rather good deal for the Faroe Islands.
The rooms are very luxurious and beautifully designed, with fluffy white linens, brightly-lit with large windows (with heavy curtains to block out the sun in the summer), and thoughtful details like reading lights, coffee & tea making facilities in the room, and L’Occitane toiletries. It’s inclusive as well: some of the rooms are specifically designated as accessible, great for travelers who have limited mobility or use a wheelchair.
There aren’t many places to stay in Gjogv – in fact, this is the only one I can find! But this is one of my favorite places on Streymoy, and in fact the whole country, that I couldn’t leave this village off my list of where to stay in Faroe Islands
If you want to stay in a traditional house with a turf roof, surrounded by one of the most beautiful environments in a quaint seaside village in the Faroes – this is your pick! There’s no kitchen access, but breakfast is included and the guesthouse also provides lunch and dinner for an additional charge in the on-site restaurant, which serves up typical Faroese cuisine.
Each room has a private bathroom with a shower, with clean and crisp linens, closet space, a desk area to work at if needed, and daily maid service. Some rooms are located in the annex not a far walk from the main guesthouse building. Previous guests raved about the kindness of the staff, who were very helpful in discovering the nearby area, and the unparalleled quiet and beautiful scenery.
One of my favorite islands in the Faroes, I don’t know why more travelers don’t visit Suðuroy! I suppose the two-hour long ferry scares them off, when all the other islands are more easily accessible, but still: I’ll argue over and over again that Suduroy is well worth a visit when you come to the Faroe Islands.
There are a few main towns on Suduroy: Tvøroyri, where the ferries let you off, Hvalba, my personal favorite town, and Vágur, the largest town on the island. I’ve only found Suduroy accommodations in Tvøroyri listed, so you’ll find my top pick below.
Where I stayed in Tvøroyri, I loved my stay at B&B Suduroy hosted by Bindi! This small B&B is incredibly cozy and we could have easily stayed here for days enjoying Suduroy. It has two bedrooms, each with two beds, so it’s great for a larger group of travelers, or you can rent out just one of the rooms and be willing to share the bathroom and kitchen with other travelers.
There’s a kitchen in the guesthouse with a gorgeous view of the fjord, and you’re brought a basket full of local goodies to make yourself breakfast each morning: a great idea that I wish more guesthouses did!
The whole place is very new and modern, and I really loved the décor – it had that cozy feel that made you feel instantly at home, with plenty of cozy textiles and comfortable sitting areas. I especially loved the ultra-modern bathroom and kitchen, both of which made me feel like it was a shame we only stayed the one night!
The (shared) living area in B&B Suduroy The modern kitchen in B&B Suduroy
Have you stayed anywhere in the Faroe Islands? Where do you recommend?
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Switzerland is a land of ridiculous beauty, and the fantastic network of alarmingly on-time trains helps you zip around gorgeous landscapes without losing any time.
This former New Yorker doesn’t understand how an entire country’s train system can run so much better than a single city’s… but I digress.
This Switzerland itinerary has you sweeping across the country by train, visiting several of its most important cities as well as cute mountain villages, valleys full of waterfalls, and lakeside towns.
A lot of people have reached out to me to help them plan an itinerary with all the best places to visit in Switzerland – this is my best attempt at laying out an easily replicated itinerary with all the best Switzerland highlights.
Quick Tips for Planning Your Switzerland Itinerary
This Swiss itinerary accounts for you arriving in Geneva; you can depart from either Geneva or Zurich (or even Milan) and all ways should take about the same amount of time.
Depending on the region of Switzerland you’re in, either French, (Swiss-)German, or Italian will dominate linguistically.
This 10 days in Switzerland itinerary is focused on French and German Switzerland.
If you wanted to dip into Italian Switzerland I would recommend skipping Zurich at the end, instead continuing onward from Zermatt to either Locarno or Lugano, and flying out of lovely Milan or Venice after spending a day there.
This Swiss itinerary takes a slightly leisurely place, generally giving two nights in each destination, except for two back-to-back one night stays in the beginning of the trip.
I think it’s far more enjoyable this way. Instead of moving every night, I suggest taking day trips instead, which are easy to do with Switzerland’s excellent train system. It’ll make your 10 days in Switzerland more enjoyable and less chaotic.
I strongly recommend traveling with a Swiss Travel Pass, which covers not only travel between cities but also has several free scenic trains and steam boats and cable cars.
Using my Swiss Travel Pass, I was able to take the Schynige Platte Belle Époque railway, the steamboat across Lake Lucerne, the steepest cogwheel railway in the world up to Mt. Pilatus, and handfuls of scenic cable cars.
All of that included for free in the price of my rail pass! Plus, I received a discount on the Gornergrat in Zermatt to see the gorgeous Matterhorn up close.
For this 10-day Switzerland itinerary, I recommend an 8-day pass and only activating it when you’re ready to maximize the best perks (i.e., when you’re leaving Geneva).
If you only have 7 days in Switzerland, I recommend omitting a day in Geneva and the 2 days in Lauterbrunnen.
While it’s a beautiful city, it’s a bit out of the way and time is of the essence with only one week in Switzerland.
Switzerland Itinerary: 10 Days of Chocolate, Cheese, & Trains!
Day 1: Geneva, Switzerland
Geneva is one of the most common arrival airports in Switzerland, so you’ll likely find some good fares flying into Geneva.
Despite its large size and airport, Geneva has a calm and beautiful feel – likely because it’s right on Lac Léman, one of the most pristine lakes in Switzerland.
Geneva is best known for its gorgeous lakes, its fancy watches that cost more than a year of my salary (which, granted, as a ‘professional’ travel blogger is admittedly not that high), and its fantastic chocolates.
Geneva is also the heart of French Switzerland and therefore you’ll hear French spoken here, making it different than many other places on this itinerary (except Montreux, which is also French-speaking).
If you plan to hit a lot of museums, I recommend getting a Geneva Pass.
I normally don’t recommend city passes as they’re usually overpriced, but this one is pretty inexpensive compared to visiting museums individually, and it also includes public transportation (which can be quite pricy in Switzerland).
The Musée Ariana is great for art lovers, whereas history geeks will love the Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum.
This tour includes many of Geneva’s most famous attractions – the Jet d’Eau (one of the tallest fountains in the world), the Flower Clock, St. Pierre’s Cathedral – and takes up just two hours on foot, followed by a one-hour cruise of Lake Geneva (Lac Leman).
Note that if you have a Swiss Travel Pass, the cruise on Lake Geneva should be free, so you may just want the walking tour alone.
The steamboat ride on Lac Leman is one of the highlights of a trip to Switzerland so really, you shouldn’t miss it!
Other things to do in Geneva include sampling some of the chocolate the city is known for (here are 5 of the best chocolate shops in the city), window-shopping along the ultra-fancy Rue du Rhône, and strolling along the Jonction, where the Rhône and Arve Rivers collide.
Where to Stay in Geneva
Throughout this Switzerland itinerary, I’ve included hotel recommendations for each of the cities in this post, one for each budget category when possible.
However, keep in mind that visiting Switzerland on a budget is essentially a contradiction in terms. Therefore, I’ve tried to find the cheapest option in each Swiss city, but you’ll be hard-pressed to find anything under $100 per night (and when you do… book it ASAP because seriously, a crappy bunk for one costs $40 per night in a hostel).
Budget: The best-reviewed hostel that several of my friends have stayed in is Geneva Hostel, which is no frills but quite affordable for pricy Switzerland. It has spacious lockers, friendly staff, breakfast included, and best of all, it comes with a free travel card which is really useful if you’re not using a Travel Pass in Geneva. Check hostel availability and prices here.
Mid-range: I’m a big fan of ibis hotels and stay at them as much as I can: they’re always clean, reliable, private, and inexpensive for the region. They don’t have the most personality, sure, but sometimes you just want a clean, private room to rest your head in. There are several branches of ibis in Geneva, but ibis budget Petit-Lancy is the most affordable. Like Geneva Hostel, it also includes a free travel card, which means that even though you’re located a bit outside the center you can get into the heart of the city easily without spending a dime. Check lowest prices and availability here.
Luxury: The Mövenpick is one of my most trusted luxury hotel brands, and the one in Geneva is well-reviewed and not absurdly expensive (for a luxury option in Switzerland, that is) Check best prices and availability here. Additionally, Hotel de la Cigogne is an excellent 5* option, but it’s priced to match. Still, it may be worth it for the central location, luxury amenities, and artist-inspired décor. Check availability and prices online.
Day 2: Geneva, Switzerland
Use your second day in Geneva as a base for one of the awesome day trips from Geneva in the west of the country (or even dip into France for a day!)
Annecy – one of the best day trips from Geneva!
If you want the whole Swiss bucket list in one go — trains, mountains, chocolate, and cheese — you can’t miss a full-day tour to Gruyères – yes, that Gruyères!
You’ll learn about chocolate making, meet Swiss cows, see how cheese is made in Switzerland, indulge in fondue, and get to ride the Golden Express, one of Switzerland’s most famous trains.
If you’re interested in visiting France on a day trip, there are several exciting day trip options. The most picturesque is Annecy, the so-called “Venice of the Alps,” a gorgeous pastel town where the turquoise Thiou River meets Lake Annecy.
It’s famous for its Old Town (Vieille Ville – try saying that 5 times fast!), gorgeous canals, and just general Instagram-dreaminess. It’s an easy day trip from Geneva.
If you’re more interested in mountains than cute old towns, be sure to check out the French side of the Alps!
Chamonix is a gorgeous ski town (perfect both in winter and summer) with charming architecture and insanely beautiful views.
You can view the tallest mountain in Europe (well, excluding Russia), Mont Blanc, easily on a day trip here from Geneva – a must for any mountain lover.
While you may be done with Geneva, you’re not done with its lake just yet.
Head about 1 hour away to the beautiful lakeside town of Montreux, best known for being the host of the yearly two-week-long Jazz Festival and for being the muse of many famous artists, including Freddie Mercury.
When your train arrives in Montreux, trust me – you’ll understand why.
This city has one of the most incredible settings you can imagine, with Lac Léman (Lake Geneva) in the backdrop of everything.
Despite only being one hour away from Geneva, the vibe in Montreux is decidedly different – calmer and more pristine.
I really enjoyed sitting in town and enjoying a cappuccino, watching the slower pace of the city.
The main draw for Montreux is the stunning island castle, Chateau de Chillon.
This gorgeous building dates back to the 11th century in some form or another and has been built upon and kept up well over the centuries.
It’s one of the most lovely places in Switzerland, thanks to its stunning lake and mountain views framing the castle. Entrance is 12.50 CHF (about $13 USD).
However, if you have a Swiss Travel Pass, entrance is included with your train pass.
After visiting Chateau de Chillon, take some time to walk the lakeside promenade.
Fans of classic films won’t want to miss Chaplin’s World, a museum dedicated to Charlie Chaplin, as he spent many years of his life here (alongside other celebrities like Freddie Mercury).
If time and weather permit, you can also take the scenic train up to Rochers de Naye for an aerial lake view.
Otherwise, you can just enjoy this lakeside town and have a peaceful night in Montreux.
Mid-Range: If you’re on a bit of a budget but still want to stay somewhere that is a proper hotel, Le Coucou Hotel has excellent prices, a breathtaking view, and a well-reviewed restaurant. It is a bit far away from Montreux town proper, near a different train station (Haut-de-Caux). Check lowest rates and availability here.
Luxury: A favorite of celebrities like the late Freddie Mercury, it’s not surprising that Montreux offers no shortage of luxury options. The best balance of luxury to price ration is Fairmont Le Montreux Palace. I mean, just look at that building façade — it’s basically the architectural equivalent of the heart-eyes emoji. Check lowest rates and availability here.
Day 4: Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
If I had to pick a favorite place on this Switzerland itinerary, it would have to be Lauterbrunnen.
This town is quintessentially Swiss, with beautiful wooden buildings with traditional flower boxes and Swiss flags fluttering in the cool mountain breeze.
It’s also one of the cheaper places to visit in Switzerland, with plentiful budget accommodation, making it a favorite for those backpacking Switzerland.
While the journey from Montreux to Lauterbrunnen takes about 3 hours and involves 3 connections, it is entirely worth it!
Plus, the train ride is incredibly beautiful and the connections are well-timed so you’re never actually waiting long.
The train lines all sync up so that you never wait more than 10 minutes or so for a train (and if the trains run late for whatever reason, the trains are so well-run that they stagger all the connections!).
Still, get an early start to your day so you can make the most of your time in Lauterbrunnen.
Arriving in Lauterbrunnen, you’ll want to spend the day enjoying the village and its two waterfalls in the heart of town.
It’s an extremely typical Swiss town with traditional wooden architecture and flower boxes bursting with gorgeous blooms.
Lauterbrunnen Valley itself is famous for being home to 72 waterfalls and you’ll be able to see a number of them from Lauterbrunnen itself.
The most impressive are at Trummelbach Falls, which this Switzerland itinerary has you visiting tomorrow.
Today, I recommend dropping your luggage off at your hotel, into your hotel and then picking one of two excursions: Schilthorn or Schynige Platte. Both are beautiful and whichever you coose, you won’t go wrong.
Schilthorn is pricier but arguably more impressive if you are visiting Switzerland for its glaciers and mountains. Its gorgeous revolving restaurant (at nearly 3,000 meters high!)
Piz Gloria was the filming location of the James Bond movie, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Check tickets here – note that they do not include dinner, so reserve that separately if you are looking to dine here as well.
As I was traveling on a budget I chose to go on the tour included on my Swiss Travel Pass – the route to Schynige Platte via scenic cogwheel railway.
Despite the low price tag, I’d be willing to reckon it offers one of the most beautiful views in Switzerland, with beautiful views overlooking Interlaken’s twin lakes.
There are some short hikes you can do that offer maximum reward for a minimum of effort.
However, if you want snow-capped peaks, definitely opt for Schilthorn or even Jungfraujoch (the highest railway station in all of Europe!) if finances allow.
Where to Stay in Lauterbrunnen
Mid-range: If you have a medium budget, Hotel Staubbach is your best bet. It has great waterfall views and a super convenient location. It’s cozy, but not ultra-luxurious. You could also stay in Mürren, Gimmelwald, or one of the other cute mountain towns in the area! Check lowest prices and availability here.
Luxury: For those with money to spare, Hotel Silberhorn is one of the nicest hotels in town. They have a beautiful sun terrace with an amazing panoramic view of the Jungfrau mountains and an Alpine-style restaurant. Check prices, reviews, and availability here.
Day 5: Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland
Start the day with an early morning cable car and train combination up to the car-free village of Mürren via Winteregg.
(Note: this whole route is free with a Swiss Travel Pass; not sure how much it would cost if you bought all your tickets individually).
Along the cable car and train route, you’ll have gorgeous views overlooking Lauterbrunnen Valley – made all the sweeter by the Swiss cows you’ll share the panoramic views with.
You’ll also find the lovely Hotel Alpina here, which looks straight out of a Wes Anderson movie.
Afterward, you can hike down to Gimmelwald, enjoying beautiful views along the way.
When in Gimmelwald be sure to check out the Honesty Shop — Europe’s first village store based entirely on trust.
It’s completely unstaffed and unwatched, relying on the kindness and honesty of its patrons to pay for the goods they take.
I was tired of walking at this point, so I took the cable car to the bottom and then hopped on a bus.
From there, it wasn’t a long ride to the insanely powerful Trümmelbach Falls on the outskirts of Lauterbrunnen.
Admission is CHF 8 if I recall correctly and is entirely worth it.
You’ll get to go up inside the mountain via elevator (the Swiss are amazing with engineering!) and then check out all the powerful glacial waterfalls.
They churn their way through this mountain with such insane force that it creates literal natural tunnels!
There is a series of ten or so waterfalls you can see: allocate about one or two hours to explore them all.
From there, you can easily walk back into town, which takes about 30 minutes or so. Have a tasty fondue for dinner – you will have earned it!
Day 6: Lucerne, Switzerland
The train from Lauterbrunnen to Lucerne is another long one (3 hours and 3 connections), but well worth it.
Trains in Switzerland are so beautiful that it’s basically seated sightseeing in and of itself!
Lucerne is a lovely, walkable town with plenty to see.
Its most famous landmark, the Lion Statue of Lucerne, is a letdown (feel free to skip it).
Kapellbrücke, however, is definitely worth the hype. This covered bridge dates back to the 14th century and it is absolutely gorgeous.
Once you’ve got your luggage at your next hotel, take a half-day trip to one of the nearby mountains.
Both Mount Rigi and Mount Pilatus are extremely closeby and offer excellent views over Lake Lucerne as well as some light hiking opportunities.
I chose Mount Pilatus, but I wish I had time for Rigi, too!
These are both included if you have a Swiss Travel Pass; if you’re not using a pass and are buying tickets point-to-point, you can grab an a la carte ticket.
I ended up choosing Mount Pilatus because you can experience the awesome efficiency of Swiss transportation in 4 different forms on this tour: steamboat, railway, cable car, and bus.
There are gorgeous views on almost all of them (though admittedly the suburban bus is less exciting).
This tour takes you gliding across peaceful Lake Lucerne on a steamboat and then goes up the mountain via the world’s steepest cogwheel railroad.
It’s truly impressive to see the incline for yourself — you’ll be shocked you’re actually going up a track so steep!
At the top, you’ll enjoy some spectacular views over the lake you just crossed by boat.
You can also stop for lunch here or go for some short hikes. Afterward, you can descend using a cable car (and finish your trip back to Lucerne with a brief bus ride).
In the evening, spend your day walking the main pedestrian boulevard in the heart of Lucerne, Kornmarkt, or walking alongside the lake promenade – a fantastic place to walk as the city lights up after dark.
Where to Stay in Lucerne
Budget: I stayed at Lion Lodge but I didn’t like it. Instead, I’d opt for the cool and sleek capsule hotel lucerne for something vaguely futuristic yet surprisingly budget-friendly. Check it out here.
Mid-range: Had I not been traveling on such a strict budget, I likely would have opted for the ibis Lucerne. Ibis hotels are clean, affordable, and pretty inoffensive — but they’re not exactly luxurious. Still, if you want privacy and cleanliness, ibis is reliable. Check prices and availability here.
Luxury: If you want the best of the best, Hotel Schweizerhof can’t be beat. It’s beautiful with an amazing lake view, a Finnish sauna, a bio sauna (whatever that is), and a spa. Check the prices and availability here, keeping in mind you need to book in advance in the busy months.
Day 7: Lucerne, Switzerland
Incredible views at Jungfraujoch!
Lucerne also makes a great day trip base. Here are a few of the best day trips from Lucerne.
Mount Titlis is the highlight of Central Switzerland and it’s a must-visit for snow lovers. At over 3,000 meters tall, it’s capped with snow every day of the year, even in summer, and it’s the only easily accessible glacier in this part of Switzerland.
You get to ride up in a scenic revolving cable car, and from the top, you can visit a glacier cave and cross a scenic suspension bridge.
Finally, a few Swiss cities you can easily access included on your Swiss Travel Pass or by train: Bern, Basel, or Zug.
If you prefer the context that comes with a tour, guided day trips are also available to Bern.
Day 8: Zermatt, Switzerland
By now, long yet efficient train rides should be the norm.
Head down to Zermatt, a car-free village in the Alps famous for its picture-perfect view of the Matterhorn from the heart of town.
On a clear day, the peak is clearly visible from any unobstructed view.
On other days, the Matterhorn is surrounded by clouds, which makes sighting it even more majestic when it finally appears!
Depending on what you feel like, you could wander around the heart of Zermatt village.
That means exploring the Walser architecture or the excellent Matterhorn Museum,which details the harrowing stories of mountaineers who attempted (and sometimes succeeded) in ascending the Matterhorn.
For a sad reminder of the fate many of them met, check out the sobering Mountaineers’ Cemetery, where many daring alpinists have been laid to rest with an eternal view of the mountain that felled them.
Other things include visiting Gorner Gorge, about 15 minutes walk away from the center of Zermatt, as well as the hike from Blauhard to Sunnegga.
This is the famed Five Lakes Hike, which is 9 kilometers long and takes approximately 3 hours to complete, using gondolas to get you up into the mountains efficiently.
Alternately, you could just have a spa day at one of the luxurious mountain hotels in the village and give yourself some R&R!
Where to Stay in Zermatt
Budget: As one of the more popular touristic places to visit in Switzerland, Zermatt has a wide range of options, but they go quickly. I enjoyed my stay at Matterhorn Hostel and thought the price was really good for Switzerland. Book in advance here.
Mid-range: A surprisingly good value is ARCA Solebad Wellness & Spa. It’s right by the center train station and, as the name suggests, is home to an excellent spa! It also has a salted heated swimming pool, steam bath, and sauna. Check prices and availability here.
Luxury: One of the most romantic and beautiful hotels in all of Zermatt is Romantik Hotel Julen Superior. The outside of the building couldn’t be any more adorably Swiss, with wood design and flower boxes everywhere. I also really loved the warm, wood interiors and amazing detailing. Plus, the location can’t be beat — after all, Matterhorn views are never far away. Check prices, ratings, and availability here.
Day 9: Zermatt, Switzerland
On your final day in Zermatt, head up the Gornergrat for some of the most impressive views possible – the perfect way to end your 10 day Switzerland itinerary!
If you have a good weather day, it’s definitely worth it to go up to the Gornergrat station on the scenic railway.
I took three scenic mountain railways while in Switzerland and the Gornergrat was definitely the most awe-inspiring.
As in, I almost wanted to weep when I saw the Matterhorn finally peeking from behind the clouds on my last day in Zermatt.
The Gornergrat is not fully included with the Swiss Travel Pass, but you’ll get a 50% reduction on the return ticket price of 94 CHF.
I paid a total cost of 47 CHF… pennies in the alternate universe that is Switzerland travel costs!
Be sure to stop at Rotenboden for stunning views of one of the many alpine lakes dotting the region.
With luck, you may get a glimpse of the Matterhorn reflected in the Riffelsee.
It was rather cloudy when I went up to Gornergrat, so my views weren’t quite as good as they could be.
Check the forecast (or just look at the Matterhorn to see if you can see it!) before purchasing your tickets if you are going to be disappointed if you have bad weather.
While looking at the Matterhorn from afar is great, hiking it is reserved only for serious alpinists.
Hike in the Gornergrat area instead if you are a casual hiker and not a serious mountaineer.
Day 10: Depart via Zurich or Geneva
Whatever your departure airport is, now’s the time to start making your way there.
If possible, I recommend entering via Geneva and departing via Zurich you can see a little of both major cities in Switzerland, but either way will take about 3 or so hours from Zermatt.
You could also depart via Milan as well, which will also take about 3 hours, but if you have a Swiss Travel Pass it would not be fully included as it is an international train.
And that’s it – your Switzerland itinerary in a nutshell!
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
It’s no secret if you look at my recent post history that I’ve had a bit of writer’s block lately.
My constant movement has become exhausting, inhibiting my ability to work on my business and myself in the ways I’d like to. Nearly three years of nonstop travel later, I think it’s safe to say I’m tired. The routines I once ran from I now crave. Simple things — doing a load of laundry in a familiar washing machine, having my my own pantry and kitchen knives — all carry just as much, if not more allure to me as ticking another place off my bucket list.
In the wake of my year-long standoff with Bulgaria’s bureaucratic immigration requirements, travel has become more burden than blessing: something I must do every few weeks rather than something I get to do.
I felt detached from most of the trips I did this year, like I was floating through a city, avoiding as much interaction and stimulation as possible so as not to get overwhelmed – my default setting over the past twelve months. But in all my travels last year, there is one place that bucks the trend.
The beautiful Faroe Islands.
Leave it to this cluster of islands to do the impossible and wake me from my sleeping inner self and shock me out of my blasé and hyper-privileged attitude towards travel.
Leave it to these islands to come back to a more raw, pre-burnout version of myself: capable of awe, brimming with curiosity, and awake to small and beautiful details.
Like these adorable Faroese sheep.
If you feel as if that was a strange segue…. you’re 100% correct. The thing with writer’s block is that it is like a vice grip on your brain, and every day that passes without writing is confirmation that you, indeed, should not be writing.
Between my perfectionist tendencies, my general feeling of malaise towards travel, and working on my second site which is admittedly grabbing more of my attention now, I’ve logged into Eternal Arrival planning to write several times over the past few weeks… and never published a word. Everything seemed trite, pointless… until I stumbled across this folder of photos of sheep from the Faroe Islands I’ve been saving for some iteration of this exact post.
You see, if perfect is the enemy of good, then Faroese sheep are the enemy of malaise.
They are so un-self-consciously silly that it’ll break through even the most rock-hard ennui. They are aloof to your existence yet not afraid. They are simple, and yet they have an innate intelligence that allows them to live in complete harmony with the land.
They give zero f(@*s about your presence – especially when there is an especially delicious ray of sun hitting them while they bask in the sun.
The Faroe Islands are not an easy place to eke out a living – approximately 2 percent of the land is arable, leaving Faroese people to turn to the sea. That’s why fishing and whaling are such big industries here – when you have 2% of 1,399 km² to feed 50,000 people, you’re going to have to get creative.
Sheep, meanwhile, have zero problems making it on the Faroes. These crafty little creatures are basically one step away from photosynthesis. Sun hits grass, sun feeds grass, grass feeds sheep. Simple.
Of course, sheep and humans live together on these islands in a kind of partnership. The sheep provide wool and meat; the humans provide shelter from the harsher elements.
In fact, the name Faroe Islands comes from old Norse old Norse Færeyjar, which literally means “Sheep Islands” – that’s how essential these animals are to the islands. And with sheep outnumbering people by about 50% on these islands, you’ll see why.
Sheep were not born on these islands, but they were seemingly made for life on it. Norse settlers brought sheep to the Faroes during the Viking era, where they thrived in this grassy, mountainous landscape. Their wool coats kept them protected from the icy Atlantic winds and their light, strong skeletal structures allow them to easily traverse the mountainous terrain with an ease that makes humans look quite clumsy in comparison.
Faroese sheep are now a unique breed of sheep all their own. Their unique breed has been mixed with sheep imported from Iceland and the Scottish isles to boost their numbers during valleys of low numbers in the 17th century and later again in the 19th century, to engineer a sheep with more meat and better wool.
When exactly sheep came to call the Faroe Islands home is not exactly known.
Historical records show that the islands were full of sheep as far back as 825 CE, but the islands have been inhabited by people on and off since the 300s CE – so the sheep must have arrived sometime in between and immediately started thriving in these wild, grassy lands.
The relationship between man and domesticated animal is for one of two purposes: companionship or food.
Sheep, while adorable, don’t make the best companions (I find them a bit snobby, the cool kids of the animal kingdom you can’t quite make an in with) – and therefore, they have become food.
Lamb has been a crucial part of the Faroese diet for centuries. As the slaughter occurs only once a year in the fall, the Faroese developed a variety of ways to eat the meat for the entire year to come: cooked, dried, and fermented.
The latter two methods were especially essential in the years before electricity and therefore freezers were invented, and they are still part of a traditional Faroese diet.
Even though Faroese people now have basically all of the conveniences of modern-day life – great roads, electricity in all villages, surprisingly fast WiFi – they still maintain the traditions they gained from leaner, harder times, those little ways of doing life that make up the distinctly Faroese identity.
To preserve the lamb meat for the year to come, the Faroese would build dry, airy structures and hang up the meat. This semi-sheltered preservation system provided a safe way for the meat to ferment (ræst). This meat has a unique flavor and texture that the Faroese still incorporate into their modern cuisine
As Faroese people have gained an easier, more modernized way of life, they have more room to explore and get creative with their cuisine. Young chefs in the Faroes have begun to play with their country’s national dishes, putting new spins on traditional classics.
While you’ll find a lot more vegetables and tastes from abroad on your typical Faroese plate – I had a quinoa salad in Tórshavn, hardly native to these islands – you’ll also find plenty of nods to the importance of sheep meat in the country’s cuisine in the restaurants of these islands. Lamb – fermented and cooked – is inextricably tied with Faroese gastronomy.
Of course, meat is just one aspect of the importance of sheep to the Faroe Islands. Another reason why sheep were brought to the Faroes and tended to for centuries was their wool – semi-seriously called ‘Faroese gold’ in a common Faroese adage.
The spring shearing of thousands of Faroese sheep each year meant that almost-magically warm wool was never in short supply. While traditionally designs were more utilitarian, newer designers have focused on bringing a more fashion-forward touch to their creations. In particular, the Faroese designers Guðrun&Guðrun have received a lot of buzz abroad for their creative, sustainable designs made with Faroese wool.
Today, sheep serve a new purpose – tourism – as one of the most unique and distinct reasons to visit the Faroe Islands. In the world of European travel – where cookie-cutter Old Towns with escape rooms and hipster bars all start to make every place feel the same – this is a unique asset.
Sheep have been at the heart of a lot of the Faroes’ most viral marketing campaigns, like Sheep View – which eventually finally got these islands on Google Street View. (They are currently trying to get Faroese added to Google Translate with the hilariously awesome Faroe Islands Translate project)
Squee-inducing sheep photos are just one reason of literally hundreds to visit the Faroe Islands. Stunning sea cliffs, abundant bird life, a thriving capital, gorgeous harbors, unparalleled hiking – the Faroe Islands have a little bit of it all.
But more than just being a cute quirk of Faroese life, the country’s ovine residents are a window into understanding the Faroe Islands and Faroese people, their past and how these islands and the people who call them home came to be who be who they are today. They’re also clinically proven to leave a smile on your face.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
With airlines constantly adjusting their compact carry-on size requirements and implementing higher fees for checked luggage, travelers have been forced to adjust and pack smarter.
Many U.S. airlines are following in the footsteps of ultra-low budget carriers like WOW and Spirit, introducing free “basic economy” fares that charge extra for carry-on bags. As a result, the most budget-conscious travelers have started taking packing light a step further and have managed to travel using only lightweight under seat luggage on their ultra-budget flights.
Even if not flying on a basic fare, many people have started avoiding checking luggage together through the combination of a personal item and a carry-on bag or travel backpack. Others have gotten tired of the Hunger Games-esque Battle Royale for overhead bin space every time that ensues every time they board a plane and now prefer to just pack carry on luggage that fits under the seat.
Whether you’re looking to avoid baggage fees or you’re just trying to make it home for the holidays without playing the terrifying game of dibs that is trying to nab space in a crowded overhead compartment, I’ve picked the best underseat luggage options for light-packing, savvy travelers who are tired of taking s(@* from airlines.
One important note on the dimensions of underseatcarry on luggage: every airline has their own rules about what constitutes a “personal item” and what you can bring on an economy or basic economy fare. Unfortunately, there is no universal answer to the question “how big is the space under an airplane seat” (that would be too easy, apparently) therefore the best place to start is by checking with the airline itself.
While I’ve done my best to pick only bags that fit under airplane seats, it may not necessarily pass the requirements of the most intensely strict airlines (WOW and Spirit are notoriously more strict than other airlines). Compare the specs of the bag with what your airline allows before deciding on what to buy, as every airline’s under seat size is different.
Winner: Samsonite Spinner Underseater with USB Port
The sleekest and most ergonomic of all the luggage on the list, this is the best under seat bag for the aesthetics-focused traveler who wants to travel comfortably and stylishly. Their colors are really rich and beautiful, especially the Majolica Blue, so if design and aesthetics are important to you, I think this is one of the nicest-looking options.
Another awesome perk is that it has a USB port… however, it doesn’t come with the battery, so you will have to buy an external battery pack such as this Lumina charger to actually take advantage of that functionality.
One of my favorite things about this bag, though, is that it is actually a spinner underseat carry on with four wheels! That means this bag can actually glide ahead of you or alongside you and you’ll feel like a supercool airport ninja while you stride through the airport at it, laughing at all the folish mortals with two-wheel bags (or is that just how I felt when I finally got a four-wheel spinner?)
Another plus is that the maximum extended height on the 3-height adjustable handle is designed to be longer for taller travelers, which is sometimes missing on other small underseat carry ons. Other perks include exterior side pockets perfect for storing your important documents within an easy reach, and the front zipper also has some additional slots for credit cards and change if you don’t want to carry another bag.
Finally, this is one of the few bags on this list that has both a highly organized interior as well as a separate laptop pocket. It seemed that most lightweight underseat luggage out there offered one or the other, but not both: Samsonite definitely fixed that with this bag, which is why I’m naming it the best underseat carry on luggage choice.
One point to keep in mind is that Samsonite has a 10 year warranty period, so if anything malfunctions with this bag, you can rest assured that you’ll get your money back.
However, there are a few negatives to note. For one, while this is one of the few rolling laptop bags that fit under your seat, the laptop compartment is still rather small. Some people with a 15″ laptop have reported having trouble getting their computers to fit. If you have a Macbook Air or similar smaller laptop or tablet, you will be fine.
A big negative is that this bag won’t necessarily fit on every single airline – one reviewer noted that it didn’t pass Spirit Airlines’ new standards and they were forced to check it for $65 — yeow. It’s also one of the pricier options on this list due to its extra features (4 spinning wheels, USB port) so if you are on a tight budget this may not be your bag.
If you are buying a wheeled underseat bag to avoid baggage fees, be sure to do your research on the specific airline that you are flying and their size limits, as you may not be able to do so with this bag. Unfortunately, airlines are constantly changing their requirements, and each airline’s dimensions are different from the next, so there is no one universal best under seat bag.
Best for: tall travelers, aesthetics-focused travelers, techie travelers, business travelers
Worst for: some budget airlines (Spirit) as it won’t fit their tightened restrictions on under seat bags
If you’re looking for the best under seat carry on luggage with hardside construction, the Delsey Cruise Lite Hardside is perfect. This underseater bag has an extending handle and smooth double-spinner inline wheels, which makes it easy to transport — perfect for traveling through the airport quickly to make your connection without having to carry a heavy bag with you.
This two-wheel rolling underseat carry on bag is specifically designed to fit under an airplane seat on anything from 2 x 2 configuration regional jets to the traditional 3 x 3 jets. It comes in three colors so it has some opportunities for personalization if that kind of thing is important to you!
The great thing about this underseat bag is that despite its small size, it offers some decent organizational features, with the front pocket and the two-side 90-10 construction. The front pocket is designed to fit laptops up to 14 inches in the widest dimension, so it’s well-suited for business travelers as the hard side ensures your important electronics will stay safe during the flight.
Inside, you’ll find a lined interior with tie-down straps that keep your clothes separate from your other odds and ends in your bag, keeping them in place and preventing wrinkling. This is another feature that makes it one of the better underseat bags for business travelers.
Made of 100% polycarbonate, which is impact-resistant and scratch-resistant without adding too much weight, this bag is in it for the long haul (pun definitely intended – I can’t help myself).
A few downsides worth mentioning: it has two wheels, not four, so you will have to drag it behind you rather than having the ability to push it in front of you or to your side, like you would with a four-wheel spinner. However, that’s one of the sacrifices you usually will have to make with even the best under the seat luggage choices – I was only able to find one (the Samsonite) with four wheels.
Another feature this bag is lacking is an organizer insert in the larger component, as all it has are the elastic straps that hold your clothing in place. More pockets would be welcome, or you could supplement it with travel organizers like an electronics organizer or toiletry hanging case.
It also doesn’t have a trolley strap, so that if you were trying to travel with this in additional to another suitcase, you would have to carry both. However, if you are looking for a hardside bag that can work as your only piece of rolling underseat luggage, this is a great option.
Best for: business travelers, weekend trips
Worst for: travelers looking for lots of organization, longer trips
Made of a combination of polyester and nylon, this Samsonite wheeled underseater bag offers the flexibility of soft-shell luggage with the durability of a hard-side suitcase.
With superior pockets, organizers, and compartments to any other underseater out there, this is clearly the best under seat roller bag option for maximizing space and neatness. The coolest thing about this underseat bag in particular is that one of the zippered compartments can be unsnapped from the rest of the luggage. Then, it can be hung in a closet or on the back of the door, which is pretty freaking awesome news for girly girls like me who travel with a metric #(*ton of toiletries.
Some other positives are that the wheels glide easily and if you have a larger suitcase that you are bringing as well, it fits on top using the trolley sleeve, giving you a free hand. Reviewers have said this bag fits even on budget airlines like Spirit, so it’s wonderful to use as your only bag as well if you are traveling light and want to avoid baggage fees entirely.
For a bag of its size, there is a good amount of interior organization, including WetPak lined pockets for toiletries and mesh pockets for loose items. Still, packing cubes would be ideal for maximizing your packing abilities in the main internal packing compartment. Using packing cubes plus picking lightweight clothing materials means that you can fit up to a week’s worth of clothes as well as travel-sized toiletries and more in this sleek underseat bag!
However, there is no separate laptop compartment, which is a downside for many travelers. For me, I use a simple neoprene laptop sleeve like this one, so it is not a dealbreaker, but others may prefer a separate laptop compartment, especially if they are traveling with a lot of liquid toiletries.
Another downside is that this is probably not the best under seat luggage option for tall people, as the bag is quite small and the handle height doesn’t extend that far. However, it does have handles, which means you can easily lift it up to carry it if you don’t want to lug it behind you.
Also, some people have complained about the fabric fraying, as even the sturdiest nylon can’t compete with polycarbonate that you’ll find in hard-side luggage. It does come with the standard Samsonite 10-year warranty against defects, though, so you can rest easy knowing that your bag will last or be replaced. Additionally, a benefit of the soft-side nylon is that you have a little more flexibility in making it fit in a tight spot versus hard-side luggage. One final con is that it’s also slightly on the heavy side, weighing in at over 6 pounds, mostly due to the organizational features.
Best for: female travelers with lots of toiletries, longer trips, highly organized people
Another highly organized bag better for longer trips, this bag from Travelon is thoughtfully designed like you’d expect from one of the leaders in the travel accessory industry. While generally Travelon bags have a lot of security features, this one is more stripped-down in order to maximize room in the underseat bag.
The bag has a large main compartment which you can maximize using packing cubes and the elasticized pockets, as well as a front organizer compartment that’s part of the main compartment. There’s also a separate zippered front pocket. The front pockets are well-organized and a great place to put things you need quick access to like plane tickets, identification, chapstick and toiletries, etc. There’s also a handy side pocket for a water bottle, a touch that I always appreciate but is often missing from underseat luggage.
In case you need to pack a little more than expected, there is a large “back-up bag” that takes up very little room but is rather roomy when it needs to be. You can easily strap the back-up bag to the main wheeled mini suitcase to make it easier to travel through the airport with both bags.
There is also a strap on the main mini suitcase, so that you could strap that to a larger, check-in size wheeled suitcase as well, which is really handy if you plan on checking a large bag but just want an underseat bag for the plane.
Note though that on airlines which require you to only have one bag or pay baggage fees, like Spirit, this will likely not work as they would be considered two separate bags.
If you pack smartly with lightweight materials, you could use this as your primary bag for a trip of up to one week, though you’d be more comfortable using it for shorter trips. Packing cubes would definitely come in handy if you are traveling for more than a few days with this bag, enabling you to compress. Hint: get the smaller packing cubes so you can better Tetris-cram them into your luggage.
One great thing about the design is that the sloped top makes the main compartment very accessible when placed under the seat, so you can get out what you need without too much trouble.
However, there is no separate laptop compartment, and the handlebars inside the bag are not padded, meaning that it could potentially scrape against a tablet or laptop if not contained in a protective neoprene sleeve like this one. This is one major con for me that keeps me from being able to name it as the best under seat rolling carry on.
Also, the add-on bag seems like a nice idea, but since the whole point of the underseat bag is to minimize what you pack and avoid baggage fees, it just feels unnecessary. Additionally, I’m not a huge fan of the quilted look, but others may enjoy it.
Best for: traveling with another large suitcase, highly organized travelers, use with packing cubes
So far, all the bags on this list have been wheeled suitcases, but perhaps you want something a little different, such as a duffel bag that you can carry through the airport. While not the most ergonomic option for long term travel, if you just want a simple bag that was specifically designed to fit personal item restrictions on American budget airlines like Spirit and Frontier, this may be a great choice.
The duffel bag has a trolley strap on the back, so that you can conveniently slide it down the handles of your larger suitcase if you are traveling with multiple pieces of luggage. This is a great perk if you have a main carry-on size spinner suitcase and want to also have an underseat bag without needing to use two hands to lug both around.
The bag has a dual zip design and mini padlock so you can lock it together for extra security if needed. You can adjust the strap so that it is either a. shoulder strap like a traditional duffel or you can use the top tug handles, or place it on another piece of luggage so that you don’t have to carry it at all.
It’s very lightweight so if weight is an issue this bag will come to your rescue at only 1 pound. It meets the strictest size requirements so if you are traveling on an underseat luggage only ultra-low cost ticket, this bag should be sufficient, so long as you don’t pack it completely bursting full.
Finally, it’s worth mentioning that this is the cheapest option!
It has some fun colors and patterns as well if you are looking for a little bit of personality and flash to your luggage and don’t want just another boring old black suitcase.
One big flaw in the bag is that it is not at all organized or protected: it is literally just one big open space, no padding or protection for your belongings. As a result, it’s not a good bag if you are traveling with anything that could be damaged easily, like a laptop or camera.
It’s best for clothes (add packing cubes to make up for the lack of organizational features) if you are really trying to maximize your clothing options. But other than that, it has pretty minimal features, especially when compared to other underseat bags on the list.
Reviewers have had trouble with the straps breaking and zippers coming undone, so the cheapness definitely can work against you. If you are looking for a long-term bag, this isn’t it. However, if you not a frequent traveler and are just looking for a cheap one-time solution to a problem, this should likely be the best underseat carry on bag for you.
Best for: people who want a no-nonsense bag that will meet all airline requirements, ultra budget travelers, minimal use
Worst for: people who need organizational features, people traveling with electronics, frequent travelers
If the idea of a duffel bag is appealing but you want something better constructed, more beautiful and more durable than the 5Cities duffel above, this may be the best underseat bag for you.
Made of genuine buffalo hide leather, it’s not a cheap option, but that’s because this bag is designed to last through the demands of air travel. The best part of leather is that it takes a beating quite well, getting softer and suppler with each use and gaining a beautiful wear over time, whereas other materials such as nylon end up looking ratty and worn over time.
The leather is handcrafted from buffalo hide by Indian artisans in accordance with Fair Trade practices. Buffalo hide produces a high quality thick leather then gets softer over time yet is much cheaper than other full-grain leather products. The bag also has break-resistant YKK zippers and a thick cloth lining to protect your clothes and valuables.
Whereas most duffel bags lack on the organizational front, this one has packing efficiency at the forefront of thinking, with 2 exterior zipping pockets, 1 interior zipper pocket, 4 card slots, 2 pen loops, and a mobile pocket. There is no dedicated laptop pocket, but it should fit a laptop of up to 15″.
A few negative things to consider: the bag isn’t the most ergonomic, so if you get shoulder pain from having weight distributed unevenly, this is not a good fit for you. If that’s a concern, you will be better off with one of the wheeled underseat bags mentioned above.
It has some organizational features like zippered pockets and card holders, but you would probably want to supplement it with packing cubes or other travel organizers if using this as your main bag over a long period of time.
Finally, many people avoid leather for environmental or ethical purposes. While this bag is made from buffalo hide from animals who are used for food and is therefore made with sustainable and traditional leather-making practices in mind, I understand that many people find leather to be a no-go.
Best for: Aesthetically-minded travelers, frequent travelers, male and female travelers with a timeless sense of style, people who want to support Fair Trade practices
Worst for: Vegans and people who avoid leather, budget travelers, people with back or shoulder issues who need a rolling bag that fits under an airplane seat
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
When I lived in Prague in 2009, it felt like I was in on a little secret. While all my other classmates were studying in more “traditional” places like London (yawn) and Paris (zzz), I was exploring the lesser-known corners of a city I had barely heard of before I decided to study there.
Well, it’s nearly 2019 and let’s just say that the secret is out — if there ever was one, and I wasn’t just living under a rock the whole time.
Even when I lived there in 2009, it wasn’t undiscovered at all – there were hoards of people in the Old Town cluttering up the streets every time the astronomical clock neared its hourly, disappointing show.
Tourist restaurants and museums had already started to pop up and clutter the streets with gimmicky shops shilling absinthe and endless variations of the tired “Czech me out” pun-emblazoned souvenirs.
But it was never hard to get off the beaten path in Prague, just by getting off the Old Town – Charles Bridge – Prague Castle circuit.
Well, 10 years have come and gone since I called this city home and while it is a little harder to find the alternative Prague I once found rather easily, it is by no means impossible.
Here are my favorite ways to get off the beaten path in Prague and experience the hidden, local side of the city.
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Explore the sprawl of Vyšehrad
It’s kind of hard to believe that a fortress offering sweeping city views can make the list of hidden gems in Prague… but truly, so few tourists make it to Vyšehrad that this place surely deserves a place of its own on this list. In fact, even though I lived in Prague for six months, I never made it there until my most recent visit.
Despite being located within the city of Prague and not a far walk from a metro line, Vyšehrad enjoys relative tourist-free peacefulness. Meaning “upper castle” in Czech, this fortress is on the right bank of the gorgeous Vltava River, offering views of Prague’s bridges and the famous Prague Castle.
While the views alone would be enough to convince someone it’s worth a visit, there are several interesting places within Vyšehrad that shouldn’t be missed.
The most obvious of which is the beautiful Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul, which is far less crowded than the tourist-packed St. Vitus yet, in my opinion, similarly awe-inspiring. And at a mere 50 crowns to enter (about $2 USD), it’s well worth the price of admission.
The Vyšehrad Cemetery just outside the Basilica is also interesting to visit, as you’ll find the resting places of several famous Czechs, including the famous classical musician Antonín Dvořák, the playwright and inventor of the word ‘robot’ Karel Čapek, and Art Deco darling Alphonse Mucha.
Another thing not to miss is the Rotunda of St. Martin, one of the oldest existant pieces of architectural history in Prague, dating back to the 11th century.
Stroll down Náplavka Riverbank
Not a far walk from Vyšehrad, it’s a great idea to combine a trip to Prague’s offbeat fortress and the lovely Náplavka Riverbank.
While it was a bit quiet when I visited recently in winter, I’ve been told that it’s bustling in spring and summer, when it becomes the closest thing you can get to a beach party in a landlocked country like the Czech Republic.
You can drink on boats tied up to the boardwalk, explore the Saturday morning farmer’s market (one of the best in the city), or just sit with a beer enjoying Prague’s drinking in public laws.
In the winter, you can actually hang out on a floating sauna at Lázně na Lodi, part of the (A)Void Floating Gallery which is one part bar, one place music venue, one part cultural center – all floating on a boat in the Vltava River!
Check out the DOX Center for Contemporary Art
Now that Prague’s National Gallery is open for the first time in nearly a decade, there are lines to match. My guide on my Prague food tour estimated that the lines to get in take over an hour, maybe even two.
While I love visiting a museum or two on my travels, I certainly am not about to wait in line for hours just to enter. So I made it a point to go out to Prague 7 during my time to explore the DOX Center for Contemporary Art. This museum is relatively new, having opened in 2008, and since it’s far from the major tourist sights in the city it’s more popular with locals than tourists.
There were a handful of excellent exhibits while I was there. My two favorite were Welcome to Hard Times, a take on today’s bizarre nonstop political news cycle, set in an interactive gym. The most impactful piece to me was the rock-climbing wall, on which a map was printed, identifying a handful of the border walls all over the world.
To me, this piece is about the futility of walls in the face of people’s determination to climb them.
The other exhibit I really enjoyed was #DATAMAZE. There were quite a few interesting projects as part of this exhibit, the most interesting of which was one where someone created a bot to randomly purchase items off the dark web, bringing up questions of whether or not a robot can commit a crime.
Meta.
There were also commentaries on oversharing in social media, data privacy, consent in image-sharing, and many other topics. In my opinion, it was contemporary art at its best, bringing up intriguing topics in a way that is accessible to the public rather than deliberately inscrutable.
Cross Club is a short walk from the DOX Center for Contemporary Art. You’re bound to pass it on your way to DOX if you take the metro there, so I recommend bundling the two together.
So, what is Cross Club? It’s hard to describe properly, but basically, it is a multipurpose art center, club, café, bar, and restaurant at the heart of Holešovice, one of Prague’s alternative neighborhoods.
Whether you stop in for a cup of freshly-roasted coffee, a beer, or a meal during day hours or come in the evening for live music or to dance into the wee hours, Cross Club is the beating heart of a more local side to Prague.
If you want to truly experience Prague at night, head to Cross Club. Skip the tourist traps like Karlovy Lázně, which may be the biggest nightclub in Central Europe but is also basically just filled with backpackers and tourists, serving drinks at twice the price and half the quality of other clubs and bars in the city.
Eat authentic Vietnamese food
Nowadays, Prague has plenty of international dining options, but while most of these restaurants are relatively new phenomena, the Vietnamese food scene in Prague has been vibrant for a while. That’s because the Vietnamese make up the 3rd largest minority group in the Czech Republic, since many Vietnamese immigrated to then-Czechoslovakia under an agreement made between Czechoslovakia and Vietnam during communism.
As a result, there are countless great Vietnamese restaurants around the city and even a neighborhood called “Little Hanoi” on the outskirts of Prague. The ones I hear the best praise for are Mr. Banh Mi (Rumunská 30) in Prague 1 for Vietnamese sandwiches, Pho Vietnam Tuan & Lan (Slavíkova 1) in Vinohrady for pho, and the massive Sapa market complex in Prague 4.
I haven’t had a chance to explore Sapa yet, but my friend Crystal (who is of Vietnamese descent) did when she was in Prague recently and she gave it two thumbs up! Check out her video below.
Eat like a local
One of my favorite traditions when traveling is to do a food tour that takes me to the nooks and crannies of a city that I may not have explored independently.
I joined Eating Europe for their Eating Prague tour and loved it. Despite having lived in the Czech Republic for six months, most of the dishes were actually new to me, and I had only visited one of the locations on the tour previously. I especially loved our final stop, Cafe Louvre, where we had delicious Czech svíčková (beef tenderloin in a slightly sweet root vegetable purée with cranberries and cream) and the best apple strudel I’ve ever tasted.
I recommend joining a food tour on the first day of your trip so that you can know what you like, what you didn’t get to try, and get tips from a local food-obsessed guide, and so you can prioritize the rest of your meals. Check out the tours here.
Shop and snack at Jiřího z Podebrad Farmer’s Market
The Jiřího z Podebrad square (often mercifully abbreviated to Jirák) near the metro stop of the same name is one of my favorite hidden gems in Prague. At the meeting point of two of my favorite Prague neighborhoods, Žižkov and Vinohrady, this square is one of the best local neighborhoods in Prague. I used to live just a few blocks away on Slezská Street, so I feel a huge affinity to this area. Somehow, this market is not at all that far from the Old Town, yet it has an entirely local vibe.
My top tips? Get a plum and poppyseed filled koláč from one of the bakers or a drool-inducing sandwich or burger from Kaiser Franz if you’re feeling especially hungry (or hungover).
There are also stands selling fresh produce, baked goods, excellent espresso, and plenty of other farmer’s market staples.
Luckily, whereas most farmer’s markets are a once-weekly, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it affair, the Jiřího z Podebrad Farmer’s Market runs four days a week. Wednesdays through Saturdays. I’m not sure exactly when it closes, but I wouldn’t get there too much later than 1 or 2 PM if you want prime selection.
Drink your way through Vinohrady’s cool bars
Ahh Vinohrady, my favorite neighborhood in Prague! Yes, it’s a bit more upscale than other Prague neighborhoods but there are so many wonderful places to go for a drink.
My favorite bar in all of Prague is Bar & Books (Mánesova 64), where you can enjoy being surrounded by books and cigar smoke and feel yourself transported to another decade. Another newer bar that I love in Vinohrady is BeerGeek, which focuses on craft beer in a casual and unpretentious setting (Vinohradská 62).
For a totally different scene and for a more active night, I love Radost FX (Bělehradská 120) for dancing – or at least, I did when I still went out dancing (I’m old now). Radost FX was literally Prague’s first electronic music club in the post-communist era, and despite the years of popularity it’s still quite a favorite amongst locals and visitors alike. The vegetarian brunch on weekends is also a local favorite!
Hang out in Letná
Letná is best known for its park of the same name, home to one of Prague’s most beloved beer gardens thanks to its lovely views. But what is there to do in Letná besides its beloved beer garden?
I had the chance to find out, seeing as I went in December – hardly beer garden weather in Prague. Letná has a ton of great coffee shops worth exploring and spending some time in when you want to get off the beaten path in Prague.
Letná is home to a handful of great museums, including the National Technical Museum (which comes highly recommended) and the contemporary branch of the National Gallery. There’s also a lovely café in the ground floor of the National Gallery, Café Jedna, which is lovely to sit in with a coffee.
Don’t miss grabbing a pastry at one of Prague’s most beloved cukrarnas (bakeries), Erhartova. If you have time and want to have a lazy day in Letná, see if there’s a movie on at Bio Oko, a casual yet artsy cinema house filled with bean bags and lounge chairs in addition to your standard movie seats.
A short walk from Letná but technically (I think) in Holešovice, you’ll find some other lovely coffee shops including the book-filled Ouky Douky and the cozy Kavárna Liberál. You can also do alternative bar crawl of Letná if you prefer some guidance or want to meet up with fellow travelers.
Explore beer history
Prague is synonymous with beer for many, and if you’re a beer lover there are a handful of historical places you should visit that are well-known but not too crowded.
Be sure to check out U Pinkasů to pay a pilgrimage to the first ever tank of Pilsner Urquell ever tapped in Prague! Easily one of the most famous beers of all time, eating a meal with a perfectly poured glass of Pilsner Urquell is a Czech must. Don’t miss the delicious and surprisingly spicy sausages in dark beer – it’s one of my favorite things I’ve ever eaten in Prague.
The monastery at Strahov, Klásterní Pivovar, has a fantastic brewery making old-style and new beers – 3 permanent offerings and several rotating taps. The monastery itself dates back to 1140 but the brewery is a newer development, but still quite an interesting piece of beer history.
Why it’s by no means off the beaten path, the oldest brewery in Prague is also worth visiting as well, U Fleků, though check your bill carefully as I’ve heard they can be a bit… unmeticulous, shall we say… with their bills.
Best known for its concentration of bars and nightlife, Žižkov has been called “up and coming” for the better part of a decade and yet it’s never quite gotten that popular with tourists.
There is one main reason why travelers come to Žižkov – namely, the absurd but interesting communist TV Tower slash art installation by David Černý comprising of several giant babies crawling up the tower. The other reason why travelers may come to Žižkov is the New Jewish cemetery, where Franz Kafka is buried.
There are several places worth visiting in Žižkov, but it really depends on what your “scene” is. If you’re a fan of live music or want a late night out, check out who’s on at Palác Akropolis – this huge complex similar to Cross Club in terms of multifunctionality has a restaurant, multiple bars, a concert venue, and a nightclub. For a more casual vibe, check out Pivo a Párek, beloved for its beer and sausages (hence the name).
There’s also an arthouse cinema – Kino Aero – and several great coffee shops. I recommend just reserving some time to stroll around the area on a free day and popping into whatever catches your eye.
If you prefer to explore the neighborhood with some guidance, this bar crawl of Žižkov run by Bohemian Alternative Bar Tours is well-reviewed.
Check out the St. Cyril & Methodius Crypt and Church
This benign-looking church has a remarkably interesting history. It was home to the final chapter in a story of one of the most daring attempts to overthrow the Nazi occupation.
In short, two Czech soldiers trained by the British RAF parachuted into the Czech Republic and entered Prague by stealth. They attempted to execute the Nazi leader, Heydrich, who was overseeing the occupation of Bohemia and Moravia (now the Czech Republic). They succeeded in hitting him, but he wouldn’t succumb to his wounds until the next week.
They went into hiding, and the Nazis responded with characteristic vengeance, completely massacring the population of the village of Lidice and steamrolling the town. In total, some 5,000 or so were killed in Lidice and other villages around Prague in retaliation for the assassination.
Eventually, the Nazis closed in on them, and under pressure of torture a 17-year-old boy gave up their locations in the St. Cyril & Methodius Church. They were hiding in the crypt, and as the Nazis flooded the crypt, they committed suicide to avoid being taken alive.
You can see a plaque and memorial to their daring sacrifices at the church in which they met their end.
PS – Thanks to Amos for sharing this bit of hidden Prague history with me on my recent visit!
For more WWII and Communist history, I recommend taking a 20th centuryhistory walking tour or e-bike tour to learn more and add some context to your sightseeing.
Explore the Výstaviště Praha (Prague Exhibition Grounds)
I had no idea that this place even existed until I was wandering through Holešovice one day on my recent trip. There are several gorgeous buildings in this complex that would make an Instagrammer go nuts, but luckily the secret isn’t out with these types (and I’m not going to write an Instagram guide to Prague, so these places can remain Prague hidden gems).
Located on the edge of Prague’s biggest part, Stromovka, these exhibition grounds are composed of several interesting buildings. My favorite building in the complex is the Industrial Palace, which looks a bit like an abandoned Art Nouveau train station.
You can also find a planetarium, the Lapidarium of the National Museum (which hosts some of the original statues from the Charles Bridge) and just a bunch of other really cool buildings with zero other people around, save for a few families making their way to the aquarium on the grounds.
Try a communist-themed escape room
Escape rooms aren’t my thing because I’m super anxious and slightly claustrophobic, but I know many people who love them! Prague is well-known for its variety of escape rooms and their creative themes.
One interesting looking escape room is the Communist Czechoslovakia themed escape room. You play as Vaclav Havel, the Czech dissident playwright turned first president of Czechslovakia, who masterfully guided the Czech Republic out of the dark years of communism. To check out this escape room (and others), click here.
Check out the House of Black Madonna
Czech Cubism is one of the most distinct architectural contributions of Prague and the House of Black Madonna is a great example of this.
Close to Ovocny Trh, the House of Black Madonna is at once uniquely Cubist and blends into the Baroque architecture of the Old Town it’s set in.
You can stop for a coffee at the Grand Café Orient, the only Cubist interior in the world still in existence, or you can stop at the two floors dedicated to cubist art which make up part of Czech Museum of Fine Arts.
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Do you have any other favorite off the beaten path places in Prague? Share your hidden gem favorites!
Note: I was a guest of Eating Europe on my most recent trip to Prague, but all of the opinions expressed are my own.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
It’s kind of ironic that I love to travel so much given that flying gives me so much anxiety I usually can’t even sleep the night before a flight.
But short of learning how to teleport – which to be honest, would probably just freak me out more – it’s something I’m stuck with.
I know a lot of you also have flight anxiety, so here are some lessons I’ve learned from 10 years of flying way too much (sorry, Earth, I swear I do love you!).
Here are the best tips I’ve learned over the years to help me keep my flight anxiety at more manageable levels so I can make sure I enjoy my travels.
Leave for the airport early… really early
I always aim to give myself two hours domestic, two and a half international. Overkill? Yes, absolutely. But I also factor in potential hitches in getting TO the airport. I’ve hit an hour of unexpected traffic, had a taxi need to change a flat tire (expeditiously, I should add – though that didn’t save me 20 minutes of breathing through the onset of a near panic attack), etc.
As a bonus, if you arrive early you prime yourself for snagging those coveted airline bumps and upgrades. I got myself a free trip to Mexico that way!
A pretty picture to help you forget that ugly mental picture I just made you conjure.
If traveling to the airport by car, have Waze at the ready
Recently, I had a mini-meltdown when my father and I hit unexpected traffic at 5:30 in the morning on the way to the airport.
Only in the Bay Area, am I right?
Luckily, my quick-thinking dad checked Waze and realized that an accident ahead had shut down three entire lanes of traffic.
We rerouted accordingly and saved ourselves at least an hour. I made my flight with plenty of time to spare.
If traveling by public transport, double check schedules and holidays
This goes more for if you’re in a foreign country and aren’t super familiar with the holidays.
This has happened to me multiple times, luckily to no catastrophe, since I wasn’t traveling by plane these times.
I once got stranded at a bus station in Kosovo with no onward bus; luckily, a kind Albanian guy arranged a ride for me to my destination (for free, I might add!)
I also almost got trapped in Singapore with my passport stuck at the embassy due to this mishap!
Jeez, apparently I really need to learn my Muslim holidays.
This goes double if traveling by “bus” in Albania!
Physically touch all your necessities before you leave
I constantly need to touch my essential items to not have chronic heart palpitations.
That means: passport, phone, house keys, and prescription medication (if applicable).
Everything else can be bought as needed, so don’t stress about it.
I know your packing list is probably a mile long and it sucks to leave things behind but very few things are truly essential.
Unless you’re trekking into the Amazon immediately upon touchdown, you’ll probably have an opportunity to replace anything you’ve forgotten, except for those essential things.
Save your anxiety for other things, like missing your layover or getting stuck in an airport questioning cell for hours! (Something that’s never happened to me but I’m always convinced will)
Book travel insurance
I’ve never needed to use it, but I’ve never regretted having it. Shit happens — be prepared for the worst. It’s cheaper than you think.
It’ll cover you if your luggage gets lost, if your flight gets delayed and you need to stay in a hotel, or all sorts of unpleasant airline-related mishaps.
I didn’t really know it was a thing – I thought it just covered missed flights and lost luggage, actually.
If I hadn’t listened to my body and stopped the climb, I may have needed an emergency medical evaluation to the tune of tens of thousands of dollars.
Try climbing out of THAT mountain of debt.
Even if you’re not doing adventurous activities like diving or climbing mountains, you should have it, just to give yourself peace of mind if you have flight anxiety.
Not sure how much travel insurance would have helped me if the volcano I climbed erupted… but it’s a nice thought.
If possible, travel carry-on only to decrease flight anxiety
I know I always extol the values of traveling light.
Mostly, it’s because I have the back of an octogenarian.
But I also love traveling carry-on only because it gives you flexibility if things go awry.
Got to the airport a bit late? All you gotta do is breeze through security with your boarding pass on your mobile phone.
Want to get put on an earlier or later flight? It’s much easier without checked luggage.
Granted, if you’re moving abroad for a long period of time, this may not be possible.
In that event, I’d suggest tacking on another half hour or so for extra wiggle room. God, do I love my wiggle room!
Carry-on only, even in the Arctic!
Consider layovers wisely
Layovers are kind of the worst. I find that 2-4 hours is my sweet spot.
Anything below two hours and I spend the entire flight bubbling with anxiety, panicking about having enough time to go through whatever imagined obstacles are in my way.
Anything above 4 and I go mad with boredom. I always err on the side of booking a longer layover rather than a shorter one, though.
This is especially true if you’re flying INTO the U.S. from an international destination and have a connecting flight after that (so say, Buenos Aires to Atlanta to NYC).
Even if you’re a U.S. citizen, you’ll need to go through customs, passport control, collect any luggage, recheck your bags, and go through security again. This is another place where it pays to fly carry-on only!
Splurge where you need to
I view avoiding stress as an investment in my health.
If there’s something you can do to make yourself less stressed and it won’t make you indigent as a result, you should probably do it.
If you have an insanely late or early flight, and you can find an airport hotel that won’t break your budget, maybe that’s a good idea.
If you can afford the direct flight even though it’s a little more money — treat yo’self.
I talk about this in my article about traveling with anxiety but it bears repeating. If you have a contingency plan for your worst case scenarios, you’ll be much more prepared and much less devastated if they come to pass. Be aware of things like taxi costs if you miss public transit, your rights as an airline passenger, and the like.
I tend to always worry about my flights not departing on time, especially when I have a connection. I’ve had massively delayed flights due to snowstorms and thunderstorms, and once I missed a tight connections at Charles de Gaulle airport (which, let the record state, is one of the worst airports on the planet).
One thing that’s helped me a lot with freaking out less about delays and cancellations is knowing my rights as an air passenger… which are surprisingly quite a few, given how much I feel like a cattle every time I board a plane. Luckily the EU has pretty solid legislation in place that allows you to be compensated if your flight is delayed due to the fault of the airline (so weather-related delays or cancellations don’t count, but overbooking or technical problems do). The U.S. has a similar policy as well, but I’m less familiar with it. There are websites like AirHelp which can help you make your claim to the airline – you could get up to 600 euros (almost $700) of compensation if the airline caused you a delay of over 3 hours.
It doesn’t completely alleviate my flight anxiety, but it’s nice to know that if the worst does happen, I’ll be compensated for it.
Self medicate
Consult with your doctor before following my advice, but if you have flight anxiety and given you have no reason not to take herbal medication, here are a few of my favorites. Kava, passionflower extract, and valerian root are all natural stress relievers.
Do try to avoid alcohol – it makes me weepy, which is generally not a good look unless you’re trying to get rebooked on an earlier flight. Which is just a hypothetical example, of course. I’ve definitely never pulled the crying girl card.
Drink responsibly.
Likewise, lay off the caffeine. Anxiety produces stomach acid, and drinking coffee on top of an acidified stomach can lead to painful stomach cramping for some. Even if that’s not true for you personally, the heightened awareness of your mind and your senses is not something you want when you fly. If you must have caffeine to not have a headache, I feel you, but stick to one small cup of coffee and then switch to water for the rest of the flight.
Be aware of what in the flying cycle gives you anxiety
What part of flying makes you the most anxious? Is it physically getting to the airport for fear of not having enough time? Is it the whole process of actually getting through the glares of airport security? Is it the waiting and taxiing, the claustrophobia and boredom mid-flight, or nerves as you land?
I personally started to get really nervous in last few minutes of my flight, starting to feel nauseated, hot, flushed, and just generally on the verge of a panic attack. Not cute. I later found out from a flight attendant friend that they often turn off the AC and stop recycling the air upon descent. Knowing that my anxiety had a physical, explicable cause, rather than being totally irrational in nature, was super helpful at keeping it in check. Now, I sometimes get a little physically anxious (tightness in my chest, feeling of breathing being more difficult) but it doesn’t escalate to full-on I-want-to-panic mode.
A sweet view over Big Corn Island
Practice deep breathing or meditation
You’d be surprised how much consciously focusing on your breathing can help assuage flight anxiety. It’s a cliché for a reason. When you’re anxious, you’re likely breathing far too quickly and shallowly. Only by bringing awareness to your breath can you defeat that cycle.
here’s an excellent app called Calm that I really like using (I just have the free version) that has a handy visual with soothing sounds for practicing deep breathing. It’s really helpful during my moments of stress. Many people also swear by Headspace but I hate the guy’s voice.
Download soothing music, podcasts, and audiobooks
Find music that you enjoy listening to that’s not too frantic, or a podcast with a voice that really chills you out. I love listening to StarTalk because Neil deGrasse Tyson’s voice is, like he puts it, “butter”. I also have a few audiobooks on my phone that I listen to keep my mind occupied on something productive rather than a constant loop of “WE’RE GOING TO CRASH” which doesn’t do anyone, least of all the person whose armrest I’m death-gripping, any favors.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
