Whatever you have at the top of your bucket list, give it a nudge to make room for one of the best experiences I’ve ever had: seeing the Grand Canyon by helicopter with 5 Star Helicopter Tours.
Words aren’t sufficient to describe the feeling of seeing the most beautiful and iconic landmark in all of the United States from a helicopter. But seeing as I’m a professional travel writer… I’ve got to try. And luckily I snapped a few photos along the way to help a sister out.
It’s a humbling feeling, seeing with your own eyes the endless strata of rock that date back nearly 2 billion years — nearly half the lifetime of our earth.
It simultaneously makes you feel so small and unimportant in the timeline of our planet, yet so lucky that you happen to live in an age where you can harness the power of flight to see it from a helicopter.
Flying over the Colorado River, I couldn’t help but think: all that was carved from that tiny little stream? The magnitude of the stacks of rock of the canyon next to the relative puniness of the Colorado River is a sight to behold. It’s awe-inspiring to say to least to see how the twin forces of water and wind collaborated over the years — some 5 or more million of them, it seems — to carve out this insane view.
En route to the Grand Canyon on your helicopter tour, you’ll see the impact that another force has had on America’s landscape: human determination. Over the span of just a few hundred years – a millisecond compared to the Grand Canyon’s timeline — we’ve quite literally created something from nothing.
An oasis in the middle of the desert, the creation of the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead – the tallest dam in the U.S. and the largest manmade lake in the U.S. respectively – was crucial to expansion in this inhospitable corner of the country.
It’s beautiful to see how anthropological forces combine with the geological, trying to tame our earth to eke out an existence. Oddly, it made me rather emotional, feeling — for a change — faith in the drive of the human spirit and our ability to collaborate in pursuit of a common goal.
I know, I know — only I would get this philosophical on a freaking helicopter tour over the Grand Canyon.
Trying to capture the beauty of manmade Lake Mead
Yet as jaw-droppingly beautiful as the Grand Canyon was, I wasn’t prepared for what would actually be the show stealer: flying over the Valley of Fire by the light of sunset.
I had visited the Valley of Fire by day previously and was blown away by its landscape, but nothing could have prepared me for how amazing it would look approaching by helicopter with the sun setting the red rocks ablaze.
Luckily for me, all my philosophizing about the grandness of our planet, our tiny place in the grand scheme of it, etc. was interrupted by a call for happy hour.
Oh, I didn’t mention that this was a sunset and champagne helicopter tour?
I stole away the bottle for some photo opportunities because I’m a professional. Much to the surprise of the couple who did the tour with us, I returned it just as full as I left it — it was all for the ‘gram, baby.
(Also, pro tip – don’t wear a dress on a helicopter tour if you have this little thing I’ve heard people talk about called shame. Oops)
The more the sun set, the more it cast insane light on the amazing viewpoint we had landed at — drawing out all the colors of the Valley of Fire’s Rainbow Vista. It was, dare I say, even more beautiful than the Grand Canyon.
As we wistfully got back onto the helicopter to say goodbye to the Valley of Fire, all four of us let out an audible whoa — then a big belly laugh at our nearly choreographed response — as we shot up, up, up and saw the colorful beauty of the Valley of Fire laid bare before us.
As our kickass female pilot flew our helicopter back to Vegas, I felt sadness well up in me that one of the most amazing experiences of my life was nearly over.
Luckily, I was quickly distracted by the shiny lights of the Strip as we passed overhead.
I’ll admit, I came to Vegas not expecting much. As someone who prefers Netflix and onesies to club hits, and a miserly gambler who feels like losing $6 is the end of the world, I thought I’d be sorely out of place.
But Las Vegas – this madman’s hallucination in the middle of the desert – is so close to some of the most beautiful places in this entire country that you’d be hasty to write it off as just an adult Disneyworld.
Get off – or at least above – the Strip, and you’ll see just what I’m talking about.
I’ve partnered with 5 Star Helicopter Tours to offer a 10% discount to my readers on any helicopter tour they offer – just mention that you were referred by Eternal Arrival to get the discount. Prices range from $149 per person for a Las Vegas Strip helicopter tour for those visiting Vegas on a budget to $499 for this tour, the Grand Canyon and Valley of Fire sunset tour which lasts about 4 hours.
Note: Many thanks to 5 Star Helicopter Tours for the complimentary helicopter tour. All opinions are entirely my own.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Is it weird that my dream house is all one room, located 45 minutes away from civilization, and has no electricity or running water?
… If you answered yes, I’ll show myself the door. If you’re my yurt kindred spirit, this one’s for you. This yurt in Utah is everything I’ve been dreaming of.
We arrived at Zion Backcountry Yurts after 45 minutes of driving away from Zion National Park in southwestern Utah. The last half hour of driving was down an unpaved road that we were warned became impassable after heavy rain.
At first glance, the yurt appeared tiny, and I began to doubt the owner’s claims that it could sleep nine. Once inside, I saw that the yurt’s circular design – which made it look so diminutive on the outside – actually made it incredibly spacious.
Sunlight flooded the yurt from the windows and skylight, making it seem even larger. In addition to three bunk beds — which would indeed sleep nine as three were double beds — there was room for two long tables, a kitchen with three gas burners, a kitchen prep surface, a cooler, a reading nook, and a wood-fired stove.
That stove wasn’t just for cozy aesthetics – though that was a nice bonus. As the yurt is entirely off the grid, with zero electricity, the wood-fired stove would be our source of heat throughout the cool May nights.
The cooking area was well-stocked with the necessary equipment and spices. After years of dealing with lackluster hostel kitchens, I truly appreciated how everything you needed to cook a great meal was provided. There was free coffee and tea, perfect as your nearest coffee shop is a good hour away at best.
The greatest part of staying in the yurt in Utah’s backcountry is just how in tune with nature it is. Completely off the grid, heated only by burning wood, lit only by a few LED lights at night, I’ve never felt so at peace.
As a blogger and a night owl who does her best work (slash Netflix binge-watching) at night, it can be so hard for me to unplug late at night and go to sleep. Without electricity or wifi to distract me, I certainly didn’t have any problems doing just that when staying in the yurt.
But the absolute best part of staying in the yurt in Utah’s backcountry was when I woke up at four in the morning to use the bathroom only to see the Milky Way glimmering above me for the first time in my life.
That’s when I attained yurt nirvana.
I’m a self-confessed space geek; I’ve listened to every single podcast Neil deGrasse Tyson has ever put out and probably know more about dark matter than I do about pop culture.
Seeing the bright belt of stars streaking above the yurt through the darkest sky I’ve ever seen — darker even than the night I spent in the Sahara Desert — was an almost spiritual experience for me. #nerdalert
Sunsets were equally magical, stopping everything to watch the sun disappear behind the red cliffs of nearby Zion National Park. Afterwards, I enjoyed the ritual of lighting the torches to usher in the inky night and brilliant stars.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Welcome to another installation of Offbeat Travel, featuring out of the way, lesser known travel destinations that other intrepid travel bloggers have visited. Now let me pass the mic to LC of Birdgehls, sustainable travel extraordinaire and Nordic country enthusiast, so she can introduce you to the northernmost town on earth – Longyearbyen, Svalbard. Svalbard technically belongs to Norway but is geographically and culturally distinct from it. I share her love for all things Nordic, and it seems you guys do too — my post on visiting Sweden in winter and seeing the Northern lights in Abisko remain firm favorites even 9 months after I shared the post! So I’m sure you’ll love to see what she has to say about the best things to do in Svalbard — check it out below!
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Have you heard of Svalbard? Don’t worry if not, as I hadn’t either, until a couple of years ago.
Jump onto Google Maps, or kick it old school by grabbing your nearest map or atlas. Head north, above Europe pretty much as far north as you can go. See that collection of islands, located around 600 miles from the North Pole? That archipelago is Svalbard.
Coming from a land of what feels like eternal summertime (Australia), I’ve had an obsession with the Nordic countries for as long as I can remember. So, I’ve been slowly ticking them off my list. Svalbard isn’t a country – it’s a part of Norway – but it is a destination in its own right. It made the list alongside other Nordic territories, like Greenland and the Faroe Islands.
Svalbard is a bit of a winter wonderland all year round, with temperatures in the summer months averaging 40°F (5°C). The sun doesn’t set in the summer and during the shoulder seasons, the light blends seamlessly from sunrise to sunset over the course of a few hours.
Longyearbyen, Svalbard is located so far north that it is shrouded in darkness during the winter months, a phenomenon which is known as the “Polar Night.” The only natural light you’ll see is that of the aurora borealis (the Northern lights), which makes this time of the year quite possibly the most interesting to travel to Svalbard.
So, quite fancy checking it out yourself? Here’s what you need to know.
Getting To Longyearbyen, Svalbard
Norwegian Air, which is easily my favorite budget airline, offer flights from Oslo or Tromso in Norway direct to Longyearbyen, Svalbard’s capital. You can fly to either destination from essentially anywhere in Europe – I flew in from London and carried on to Berlin straight after.
At the very least, I’d bring thermals (merino wool are the best, as the material is cozy and quick drying – polyester ones will do the trick too), a fleece, waterproof trousers, a beanie, gloves, scarf, and boots with good grip (snow boots are ideal, but I made do with faux-fur lined Timberlands).
Don’t forget a decent jacket either – one that can fit over your many layers and is both insulated and waterproof.
Here are some must-haves for your Svalbard adventure:
Things to Do in Longyearbyen, Svalbard
Despite the weather conditions, there’s plenty to do in Svalbard.
Dog sledding in the snow
I enjoyed this activity above all others, as I am simply mad about man (and woman’s) best friend.
We were picked up at our hotel and went off to the doggie base camp to pick up some mutts. The handlers knew all the dogs by name, which ones had been out recently (they rotate them so that every dog gets a run every couple of days).
The dogs were more excited to go running than we were and enthusiastically led us around the outskirts of town. Our guide was quite knowledgeable as well and delighted us with even more random facts about the area.
Plus, we got a hot beverage at the end, which was needed – darkness had descended and the cold was rapidly settling in!
Chase the Northern Lights
As I stated earlier, Longyearbyen, Svalbard is not a bad spot for viewing the Northern lights. They can generally be spotted anytime from around October to March.
You have more luck outside of the city boundaries, so I did a tour that took us to a small cabin, built just for that purpose. We were fed reindeer casserole (they had vegetarian options too) and sipped on coffees and tea, in the hope of seeing the lights.
Unfortunately, they did not deign to make an appearance that night, so we spent the evening learning about polar bears instead. That was also the closest I got to seeing a polar bear – despite the ones that were stuffed and sat around town (weirdly, there is one in the airport when you enter, leering over the baggage carousel).
Indulge your sweet tooth at the world’s northernmost chocolate factory
Fruene was started in 2013 in Longyearbyen and make handcrafted chocolates that are inspired by the Arctic.
You can sample treats that are fashioned into miniature polar bears, or display patterning that is meant to represent the Northern lights. Or just escape inside to enjoy a cup of hot chocolate in the warmth of their cafe.
Check out the Svalbard Museum
This is ideal for learning some background information on this strange and eccentric archipelago. Did you know that Longyearbyen was once a mining town? Or that all locals need a license to drink? Have you heard that you can’t step outside of the city limits without a gun, due to the fear of polar bear attack?
I was gutted to discover that there wasn’t enough snow for me to go on my pre-planned snowmobiling adventure (highly irregular for that time of the year, we were told).
In normal conditions, snowmobiling is readily available in Svalbard. It’s a pretty normal mode of transport for locals.
The vault was installed in 2008 by representatives of Iceland, Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland (so, each of the Nordic countries). Think of it as insurance for the planet itself – as the vault contains seeds from countries all over the globe.
If ever there was some worldwide emergency where crops were wiped out, these seeds ensure that we can continue to feed ourselves. The seed bank has already demonstrated its worth. Seeds native to Syria were removed, to be grown in Morocco and Lebanon, as the country’s crop supply has been devastated by the civil war.
You can’t actually enter the vault (to my bitter disappointment) but you can learn about the history of the seed bank and how crops are grown in the arctic north. That’s right… there are greenhouses in Svalbard!
There are plenty of other activities available, depending on the time of year – from glacier hikes to boat trips to the north in the summer and ATV adventuring up and down mountains.
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With an end in sight for the coal mining industry, Svalbard will continue to grow as a hotspot for travelers the world over, as it becomes more and more accessible. For those who are obsessed with Nordic territories and the various adventures they offer, this strange and beautiful archipelago is a must-see.
Note: This post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase something using one of these links, I will receive a small commission at no added cost to you. No BS – I only recommend accommodations, services, and products I truly believe in.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Perhaps I should have been worried when they told me they had to cancel the Telica Volcano hike two days prior due to a “minor eruption.”
Or perhaps I should have hedged a bit when we set up our campsite just past this ominous sign.
Can’t see anything wrong with passing by this sign…
Perhaps I shouldn’t have been so excited about spending a night just a few minutes’ walk from Telica Volcano’s constantly-smoking crater on the Ring of Fire.
I had a headache all night, making it hard to sleep, squeezing out maybe just a few hours. Before I finally fell asleep, I was prepared to wake up early the next morning, call off the hike, and beg for a refund.
But as a surprise act of mercy from the travel guides, I woke up with a clear head and actual energy for a change, as if I had sleepwalked and drank a pot of coffee in the middle of the night. Trust me… this never happens.
So I grabbed my hiking gear and walked to the Quetzaltrekkers office, where a delicious and hearty breakfast of eggs, potatoes, veggies, and toast awaited. It was the closest thing to a proper Western breakfast that I’ve had since in Nicaragua, and I would need it.
We loaded up our backpacks with tents, 8 liters of water, and other camping gear, and that’s when I had my first “oh shit” moment.
I have a terrible back and shoulders, just part of life being a secret 80-year-old. I felt the pack dig painfully into my shoulders right away. As we wove an intricate and seemingly random series of turns through the streets of León towards the bus station, I rued each and every step.
After getting off the bus in San Jacinto 30 minutes later, we were greeted with the smell of sulfuric pits, where geothermal activity made mud gurgle in the sun, like water left to boil on the stove too long. We walked through the dried husks of abandoned corn fields, occasionally stepping over a low point of a barbed wire fence. I was glad I splurged on a guided tour — the trails were not clearly marked for tourists and could have potentially resulted in a lot of backtracking with a heavy pack in the hot sun.
After about 45 minutes of walking through the hot sun on flat terrain, straps digging firmly into my shoulders, my shoulders ached, my enthusiasm flagged, and I was wondering how the hell I was going to do this.
Luckily when I shared my concern with one of my guides, he saw that I wasn’t distributing the pack’s weight properly. He helped me jerry-rig a solution, tying the waist belt tighter to sit on my hips and creating a chest strap out of a spare T-shirt (the backpack I borrowed for the trek didn’t have one). As with everything I do, it was the pinnacle of fashion.
I felt like a whole new person — I had no idea how much having my hip belt fitted properly could make a difference (I’m still a hiking newb, y’all). I marched on with renewed enthusiasm until we reached the base of Telica Volcano.
Luckily, Telica is not that tall – just over 1,000 meters (3,481 feet for my fellow metric-shunning Americans out there).
This meant we could do the major part of the ascent in just over an hour, though the climb was admittedly rather steep. Luckily, portions of the hike were quite well-shaded, and there are three designated resting places on the hike – one about 10 minutes in, one about 30 minutes in, and another basically at the top.
I blew past the first resting spot and didn’t want to break momentum; nearing the halfway point, I started to walk more slowly, focusing on my breathing. With the sun on my face, pack on my shoulders, and eyes fixed on the trail, I felt like I was truly meditating for the first time in my life: focused almost entirely on that present moment, the sensations in my body as I simultaneously pushed it and listened to it.
The last thirty minutes were a little harder, but I kept pushing through it, relishing the moments of shade and picking up my pace in the sunny patches.
We stopped at a local cooperative on the top of the volcano for lunch, and holy shit, gallo pinto had never tasted so good. It was a simple meal – rice and beans, scrambled eggs, tortillas, and hot sauce, but I greedily ate every bite of my enormous portion.
We set up our camps and afterward made our way to the crater, where I took some spooky shots, then walked over to the sunset viewpoint for the most epic sunset of my life.
Only in Nicaragua can you buy a beer for a buck fifty on top of a volcano
After the sunset, we tried to peek into the crater to see the magma below, but it wasn’t visible that night – the sulfur cloud was too thick. We had a delicious meal of pasta with vegetables and fire-roasted marshmallows for dessert.
Twilight slipped into the darkest night sky I’ve seen since the Sahara, and countless stars sparkled overhead. Without wifi or artificial light to distract me, exhausted by the climb, I slipped into sleep in my tent by 9 that night.
I awoke at 3 in the morning with the sudden remembrance that I was atop a highly active volcano in a highly seismically active region. Try going back to sleep after that thought.
I somehow managed – thank you, long hike and carb OD- and was awoken at 5 in the morning to make the short trek to the sunrise spot. Using our head torches, we walked and walked until we reached the spot. We waited and waited… and then this happened.
Imagine watching the sky turn from pitch black to yellow-blue, illuminating the peaks of five volcanos all lined up in a row like highly dangerous dominoes…. and then turning around to see this crater smoking peacefully a couple hundred meters away.
After some oatmeal and a small struggle with my tent, we packed up our bags, mercifully lighter after having eaten and drunk the majority of their contents, and set back off to civilization. Behind us, Telica Volcano continued to smoke and gurgle, active yet peaceful. For now.
Tips for Hiking Telica Volcano
Unless you’re a very inexperienced hiker, Telica Volcano shouldn’t present any particularly crazy challenge.
I was very grateful that I brought proper hiking boots (I love my Ahnus), though it definitely would have been possible to do the hike in running shoes if that’s all you have with you.
I highly recommend going with a tour guide, as the path is not very well-marked and our guide was taking on a strange path through corn fields and over fences. I would have struggled to find the right path, but I did meet other hikers who had done the hike independently up to the top, so it is possible. I went with Quetzaltrekkers and would recommend them to others happily.
If you go without a guide, be sure to talk with locals to make sure there hasn’t been any recent activity. The volcano is still very much active, but there are monitoring stations on the volcano so it is possible to get up-to-date information.
Ensure you have enough water for the hike – I’d recommend having 4 liters or so.
Be sure to pack in and out all your garbage and leave no trace
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
While Nicaragua is not a tourist hot spot quite yet, there is one thing it’s well-known for: volcano boarding down Cerro Negro, Central America’s youngest volcano located a short distance from León.
Got my hiking boots on, so I must mean business. Also, I promise I don’t have one small leg and one giant one, I’m just seemingly incapable of standing up properly… which doesn’t bode well for volcano boarding.
There are many companies that offer volcano boarding tours, typically for $25 to $30. Bigfoot Hostel is one of the better-known operators, thanks to their catchy, photogenic orange jumpsuits on offer. Many say the hostel’s former owner, Daryn Webb, invented the sport. Meanwhile, Mas Adventures‘s Anry claims to be the first to ever board down Cerro Negro. Who knows what is true! Meanwhile, I opted for Quetzaltrekkers, as they donate all profits to local nonprofits that work with at-risk youth. As a bonus, they’re the only company that allows you to board down twice.
All over Nicaragua, you’ll see backpackers in volcano boarding shirts, and it seemed like a foregone conclusion that I’d end up going down nature’s biggest slide. Yet as I watched the group go before me, I began to ask myself when the hell I became to susceptible to herd mentality. The hourlong hike up had been gorgeous, though a bit tough on the knees. Loose black brittle rock was everywhere, a reminder of Cerro Negro’s youth and temperamentality. Meanwhile, everywhere you looked that had been untouched by this volcano’s fury was lush and green. You could see the very edge where Cerro Negro’s lava stopped flowing, a black border drawn in the jungle.
A much better attempt at posing.
At the top, I became more aware of just how high I was…. 2,388 feet up, to be exact. Now, I’m not typically afraid of heights. I’m also not typically wrapped in a thick denim jumpsuit on a flimsy piece of plywood flinging myself down volcanoes for sport.
As we got ourselves into our jumpsuits and protected every square inch of skin, I began to realize just how stupid of an idea this was. I watched as person after person slid down the mountain without serious injury, and a pleasant sense of complacency washed over me.
Soon enough, my turn arrived. I got off to a slow start before picking up speed and falling over sideways. I picked myself back up quickly and continued on, fairly unfazed. A first time became a second, and yet fear didn’t really kick in yet – I was more irritated with myself that I couldn’t just slide down a volcano like a normal person. I got back on the board and got to the steepest part of Cerro Negro, where I must have reached about a speed of about 30 mph…. before I veered off to the left, yet again, and flipped board-over-heels. Twice.
The wind knocked right out of me, it took me a second to remember to get up and give the guides the signal that I was all right. I sat back on my board, feeling a bit dizzy and more than a little anxious. I still had a good half of the volcano to go, at what seemed like at least a 30-degree slope. I’d already fallen three times, flipped my board, and gotten volcanic gravel in my eyemask. So yeah, not exactly rocking this whole volcano boarding thing. Yet I didn’t want to admit defeat and walk down the rest of the way.
So I split the middle – I planted one hand firmly behind me as I went the rest of the way down, slowing my speed down to a good 15 mph and making it safely down the volcano. Not the biggest adrenaline rush, granted, but at that point my objective was to just get down the volcano without needing to find out firsthand the generosity of my travel insurance. By the way, it should go without saying, but if you’re dumb enough to try to board down an active volcano, please at least be smart enough to purchase travel insurance! I use and recommend World Nomads.
This wasn’t me… but it very well could have been. Photo credit to Quetzaltrekkers.
A moment of temporary composure. Please note my extremely #highfashion hiking boots and the half pound of volcanic gravel on my board. Photo credit to Quetzaltrekkers
I must give credit where credit is due: despite my multiple wipeouts, I had little more than a tiny scrape on my arm where some gravel had managed to get into the tied-up wrist of the jumpsuit. And a few purplish-yellow bruises, though to be fair, I’ve bruised myself far worse by walking into a newspaper dispenser on New Years’ Eve after the terrible decision of trying Fireball whiskey. While volcano boarding is undoubtedly a dangerous activity, the guides do make every attempt to keep you (as) safe (as you can be while you hurdle down a very-active volcano at speeds approaching 45mph).
When our guide asked if we wanted to give it a second go, my brain screamed, “oh hell no!” Perhaps not surprisingly — no one else on my tour that day felt compelled to give it a second go. I felt relieved. I may have been a wimp, but I was a wimp in good company. Oh, and alive. Yeah, that’s good too.
Note: This post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase something using one of these links, I will receive a small commission at no added cost to you. No BS – I only recommend accommodations, services, and products I truly believe in.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Months later, I still feel like I don’t have adequate words to describe Durmitor National Park.
Which is odd, because normally words come to my overcaffeinated fingers a bit too easily – see my exhausting list of 40 unique things to do in Montenegro if you have any doubts.
But Durmitor National Park, nestled high in the mountains in the northeast corner of Montenegro, defies even my verbosity.
The landscape of Durmitor National Park looks alternately like New Zealand, Scotland, Iceland, and the Alps.
Limestone crags cut by melting glaciers millions of years ago left an otherworldly landscape in this tiny corner of this tiny country, unbeknownst to much of the world.
Pristine glacial lakes are the few remnants of this prehistoric time: every other surface is covered with craggy rocks and lush grass.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
The Albanian Riviera very well may be the most underrated summer vacation spot in Europe. From its cheap, delicious seafood to its friendly locals and stunning beaches, I was wondering: why the hell had no one told me about how amazing Albanian beaches are?
I almost don’t want to spoil the secret of the Albanian Riviera and just how amazing it is… but I can’t keep these beaches in Albania to myself. Albania is a country which has so much potential for tourism, yet people seem to be blinded either by ignorance or by stereotypes from enjoying just how beautiful the country is.
I visited two years ago and was blown away by how spacious and beautiful the beaches were, even in peak summer season. But who knows how long things will remain this way? Tourism by Albania’s seaside is growing quickly – go now, before everyone else does and turns it into another Croatia or Montenegro.
Picking Your Home Base on the Albanian Riviera
You have quite a few choices when it comes to deciding where to stay on the Albanian Riviera, depending on your budget, comfort level, and the number of amenities you want around you.
For me, Himarë (Himara) is the Goldilocks home base: not too big, not too small, not too basic, not too flashy. This is where I based myself during my time in the Albanian Riviera and I found it perfect.
A virtually private beach near Himara
If you want a little more upscale, try Dhërmi, which is as close to luxury as you’ll find in Albania (though I can safely say you won’t find any 5-star resorts here). For more bare bones accommodation, try the tiny village of Vuno.
If you really want to really rough it, you can camp on the beach in Himara, Gjipe, Livadhi, and I’m sure at plenty of other amazing Albanian beaches right along the Albanian Riviera. Wild camping is permitted in much of Albania, and there are several “hostels” that provide tents and campground amenities for a cheap price, so you have a lot of options.
Saranda is another popular place due to its proximity to Ksamil beach, but honestly – I think Saranda’s a bit overrated, and I much prefer the Albanian beaches an hour north or so. You can also go up north to the area around Vlora beach, but in my opinion, the best parts are in the stretch between Himara and Dhermi.
Gjipe Beach: Blissfully free of cruise ships and fanny packs… for now
Himara
This sleepy little seaside town is my top pick for a base when visiting the Albanian Riviera.
It has it all: central location, a fantastic hostel, and delicious food. I’m talking the best pork gyro I’ve had in my life, which is not a crown I bestow lightly, right next to the best gelato I’ve had outside of Italy, where you can get a scoop for a mere 50 lek (about 35 cents).
The beach in Himara proper can be a bit crowded (for Albania) but for the convenience to beauty ratio, it does the trip. If you walk along towards the south end of the beach, it gets less and less crowded and you can find a secret beach – but more on that later. All in all, Himara is one of the best places to visit on Albania’s coastline.
Where to Stay in Himara
For a hotel, I recommend Margarita Guesthouse (9.2 rating on Booking.com): Comfortable rooms, breakfast included, excellent hospitality, and stunning sea views – this would be my top choice for where to stay in Himara, and it’s quite affordable as well.
For an apartment, I recommend Ionian View (9.1 rating on Booking.com): Affordable apartments with kitchenettes, balconies and terraces overlooking the sea, and an on-site bar, plus rave reviews for the host. Affordable prices.
For a hostel, I stayed at and highly recommend Himara Downtown hostel (8.8 rating on Hostelworld): Amazing and super kind staff, great outdoor garden and socializing area, a combination of private and shared rooms, and excellent free breakfast every morning.
Himara from above – not too shabby.
Vuno
If you really want to get off the beaten path, check out even sleepier Vuno. This village is nestled in the hills, so there’s no easy beach walk, but you’re close to some great choices, with Jale Beach and Gjipe Beach on each side of you.
Where to Stay in Vuno
There’s just one hostel here, and it comes highly recommended by Tomi from SR Backpackers, the great hostel I stayed at in Saranda. However, I didn’t stay at it so I can’t speak for it personally. It’s called Shkolla Vuno (8.7 rating on HostelWorld) and is located in a former school building.
Dhermi
I chose not to stay near Dhermi beach because I heard from locals that it’s a little more upscale and expensive than the rest of the Albanian Riviera.
However, like I said above, “upscale” is relative. Don’t expect crazy luxury to be available; however, you will find plenty of nice restaurants and shops, and you’ll have more choices when it comes to accommodations.
Where to Stay in Dhermi
For a hotel, choose Royal Blue Hotel (8.8 rating on Booking.com). Right in front of the beach, next to amazing restaurants and has a great in-house seafood restaurant, sea views, and great staff are the reasons this is one of the most-loved properties in Dhermi.
There are no hostels to my knowledge in Dhermi, but Villa Blue Drimadhes (8.5 rating on Booking.com) is the best budget offer. If you’re backpacking in the Albanian Riviera, I’d recommend staying at one of the hostels in Himara or Vuno instead.
The Top Must-Visit Albanian Beaches
Gjipe Beach
The hike is worth it with views like this!
This is easily one of my favorite beaches of all time, let alone of Albania. However, it doesn’t come easily. It’s a 3-kilometer hike down to the beach, and it’s worth every bead of sweat.
The views going down the hills make the perfectly lukewarm water that much sweeter. Once you arrive there, the water is crystal clear – you can see what seems like 30 feet to the bottom. There’s an awesome network of caves you can explore too, if you swim to your left if you are facing the beach. I’m not a great swimmer and am terrified of getting stuck in a cave in the water… but my friends were really enjoying this.
You can also camp on the beach if you want. They provide the tents and mattress pads. Friends who did the camping spoke highly about it, so an overnight here is a must-do when I return to this beautiful part of the world. Just be aware that you’ll have to bring all your stuff up and back the giant hill, which can be really rough in the heat. I’d recommend avoiding mid-day if you choose to do this hike with all your stuff!
Himara Beach
A ride in a flying death trap can be yours for only 50 euros!
This is not only a great home base but also just an all-around great beach. The main beach near the town center can get a bit crowded, but walk even just 15 minutes to the south end of the beach and you’ll have it almost all to yourself.
If you’re a daredevil with 50 euros burning a hole in your pocket, you can pay a guy to fly you in a boat/plane contraption all along the coast of the Albanian Riviera. It’s just as odd as it sounds, and I’d be curious if any brave souls have taken the journey! I took a pass.
Livadhi Beach
Besides the main beach in Himara, this is the closest one to town (except for the hidden beach of Himara, which I’ve saved for the end!). You can get there by foot, which takes about 30-4o minutes, depending on how fast you walk and how often you stop for photos.
It’s popular with locals, so it can be a bit crowded in the peak season, but it’s still one of my favorite beaches in the Albanian Riviera. There are beach bars, restaurants, and lounge chairs and umbrellas for rent, so it’s one of the best-equipped beaches.
It also has a camping grounds if you’d like to stay overnight here. If you prefer a more hotel-style option for accommodations on Livadhi beach, Scala Bungalows has excellent reviews and low prices.
Jala Beach
By Micimitro [CC BY-SA 4.0], via Wikimedia Commons
This beach is sometimes called “Glass Beach” for its crystal clear waters. Next after Livadhi, this is one of the closest beaches to Himara, and as such, it’s often a bit crowded. Though, again, this is Albania and crowded is relative! Even the most crowded Albanian beach (Ksamil) doesn’t come close to the crowdedness you’ll find in Croatia or Montenegro.
Jala Beach is also a common camping spot, with a campground you can rent a tent and foam mattress pad from. However, don’t expect a peaceful night’s sleep if you choose to camp here; it’s common to have people playing music, dancing, and chatting into the night.
While the party scene at night may not be what you’re after, Jale Beach is a great place to watch the sunset — just look at that sky!
Porto Palermo
By Pasztilla aka Attila Terbócs [CC BY-SA 4.0], from Wikimedia CommonsIf you want a side of castle with your beach, you’ve got to check out Porto Palermo. Located just a few kilometers south of Himara, this castle dates back to the times of Venetian rule in Albania, and was refurbished during the 19th century. During the communist regime, the fort served as a submarine base.
Now, its semi-abandoned state makes it a tourist curiosity, and its proximity to Himara make it a common day trip for travelers staying in Himara proper.
By Krzysztof Dudzik [CC BY-SA 3.0], from Wikimedia CommonsIt’s located on the bay of Porto Palermo, which has crystal clear waters the likes of which you’ll find all over the Albanian Riviera. Don’t be surprised if you share your beach with some curious goats, either – they tend to run around in these parts.
Borsh
By Decius [CC-BY-SA-3.0], via Wikimedia Commons Just a bit further south of Himara, Borsh is one of Albania’s best-loved beaches, partly for the fact that you can enjoy a castle and a beach in the same day (similar to Porto Palermo).
Borsh Castle is also known as Sopot Castle and used to be an acropolis in the Byzantine era and has been reconstructed several times. The subsequent Ottoman conquest added a mosque to the fortifications, which is the most visible feature of the castle now.
This beach doesn’t appear on any map, nor do I know its actual name, but it’s my favorite of all the great places on the Albanian coast. Getting here is not easy, which is why it’s so amazing. You have two options, one smart one and one stupid one. I’ll let you guess which one I did.
If you want to go by foot (the stupid way), walk to the southern edge of Himara beach and climb the hill. When you get to the restaurant gates, turn left off the dubious “path” edged with prickly bushes until you reach a rope to help you get down. This is not necessarily safe, nor do I have any better directions than this, so do so at your own risk.
The smart way: hire a boat for about 2000-2500 lek roundtrip ($15-20). All the boats were busy so, undeterred, I did the former. I managed it and I have the hand-eye coordination of a drunk toddler; your comfort level may vary.
To get to this….
You’re gonna have to do this.
Getting Around the Albanian Riviera
This is Albania, a country that’s changing so quickly that anything I write is virtually outdated by the time I put a period on a sentence. Take my recommendations as a mere frame of reference, and confirm with your Albanian hosts once you’re here.
You won’t get far in Albania unless you’re willing to ask questions. People make a big deal about how difficult the transit here is; in my three weeks in the country, I found it really quite easy given that I was willing to ask for help. Luckily, Albanians love to help outsiders.
If you’re staying in Himara and you want to head north to Jala, Gjipe, Livadhi, or Dhërmi, you can hop on the coastal bus headed towards Vlora or Tirana, which leaves around 11 or 11:30. Again, ask any Albanian because this will have likely changed. A bus in the reverse direction tends to go by around 6; again, ask to confirm. If you want to go south, you’ll have to seek out a bus headed towards Saranda.
Buses will pick you up anywhere along the way, even if you’re just on the side of the highway, so don’t worry about trying to find bus stops. As long as you’re on the right road that they pass (which, considering there’s only really one road that constitutes the Albanian Riviera, is pretty easy) and you wave them down, you’ll get picked up.
The easiest way to get around would definitely be renting a car. I found the horror stories about the quality of Albanian roads to be overblown. The coastal road is well-paved and well-maintained, and while there are plenty of twists and turns, I think it would be fine for any confident driver. However, the rumor about Albanian drivers being a bit maniacal is pretty true. So if you choose to rent a car, make sure you’re properly insured and drive carefully, especially around turns.
If you don’t have a car rental and want to get to and from the best beaches in Albania, I recommend hitchhiking. It’s quite safe, extremely easy, and incredibly common. Albanians are really friendly and hospitable people, and even if they don’t speak much English, most will be more than happy to drop you off at your destination.
In my time hitching in the Albanian Riviera, I never waited more than five minutes for a ride. I was always traveling with someone from my hostel, which gave me an added sense of security. First-time hitchhiker? Check out these great hitchhiking tips from an experienced solo female hitchhiker.
So there you have it! Visit the Albanian beaches before the crowds and cruise ships do!
Note: This post contains affiliate links. That means that if you purchase something using one of these links, I will receive a small commission at no added cost to you.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
Albania is a hidden gem that’s only now starting to get its rightful moment in the sun. Just north of Greece, Albania has a beautiful coast line with delightful pebbly beaches and some of the bluest waters you’ll see anywhere in Europe.
In fact, while the Albanian coastline is the same as Croatia’s and much of Greece’s, you’ll probably spend half or even a third of the price in Albania.
Albania’s coastline is home to some of the most stunning beaches in Europe, and one favorite with tourists is Ksamil Beach, near Saranda and Corfu.
A beautiful day at Ksamil Beach
Why Visit Ksamil Beach?
Ksamil Beach has most conveniently located beach in all of Albania, in my opinion, and it’s also incredibly beautiful. For one, Ksamil is very close to Saranda, which is the entryway to Albania to anyone coming from Greece. For another, Ksamil Beach is within a short drive of two different UNESCO heritage sites: Butrint and Gjirokastra. With all those different cities and UNESCO sites in close driving distance, there’s so much to be seen in this beautiful part of Albania.
However, I’ll be honest. Ksamil Beach is beautiful, but in my personal opinion, it isn’t the most beautiful beach in Albania. It can be a bit crowded with families, especially during the summer. So finding a little patch of beach on Ksamil to enjoy is kind of difficult. You’re better off swimming or taking a boat to one of the other islands rather than the part of Ksamil Beach that is part of the mainland.
For me, the honor of most beautiful beach goes to Gjipe Beach further up in the Albanian Riviera. However, Ksamil Beach is still incredibly lovely and definitely worth a visit — it’s just not my favorite beach in Albania.
Ksamil Beach also has some great restaurants serving super fresh seafood with Albanian and Italian touches. Whereas many of the beaches in Albania aren’t that developed, Ksamil has a pretty wide variety of restaurants and cafés to choose from on the beach. Plus, it offers chairs and umbrellas – not every beach in Albania does!
How to Get to Ksamil Beach
Even though transportation in Albania leaves something to be desired, Ksamil Beach is relatively well connected by public transportation. I personally took the bus and found it really easy to get around, even on my first day in Albania before I knew how everything worked.
Getting to Ksamil from Saranda
To get to Ksamil Beach, you’ll always want to start in the port city of Saranda. From there, it’s a simple 10-minute taxi (about $5 USD) or 30-minute bus ride (about 70 cents).
There are many bus stops scattered around the city. I recommend going to the first one, the one near the giant oak tree in the roundabout by the ferry (welcome to Albanian-style directions) so you can snag a seat. Trust me — they will pack those Albanian buses in a way that puts the Japanese metro to shame. In case you want more Google-able directions, it’s at the intersection of Rruga Mitat Hoxha and Rruga Jonianet. (Note: This was true as of the summer of 2016; however, directions in Albania frequently change so you probably want to ask your guesthouse to double check)
A bus ride will cost you 100 lek (less than $1 USD) and takes about 30 minutes to get to Ksamil Beach. Buses typically run every 1-2 hours, though, so be sure to ask someone as your guesthouse when it will arrive or you’ll be waiting a long time.
You can also take a taxi, which will cost you approximately $5-10 each way, depending on your luck and bargaining skills. This is a good option if you have a few people with you or if you don’t mind spending a little more money for less stress.
If you’re not already in Saranda, I’ll list a few of the most popular ways to get there below.
Getting to Saranda (Ksamil) from Corfu
If you’re in Greece and want to make your way to Albania, it couldn’t be easier to get there from Corfu. Simply go to the main port in Corfu Town and take the ferry. The ride takes about 1-1.5 hours, and it will cost you about $25-30 USD during peak season.
Crossing the border in Saranda is very easy and only takes a few minutes if you are one of the first people off the ferry. The border agents speak good English and you should have no problems getting into Albania given that you are eligible for a visa on arrival (for those nationalities who need a visa, check here). But if you have a Schengen visa for Greece, you will automatically be granted entry into Albania, so visiting couldn’t be easier.
A sunset on Corfu
Getting to Saranda (Ksamil) from Tirana or elsewhere in Albania
Saranda is about 6-8 hours away by bus or furgon (minibus) from Tirana, the only international airport in Albania. Buses leave a few times a day from various points within the city. I wish I could be more specific than that, but bus times change often and rapidly in Albania.
It’s also quite easy to get to Saranda from any point on the Albanian Riviera (Durres, Vlora, Dhermi, or Himara) if you are heading to Ksamil Beach from any point further north. Himara is about 2 hours away from Saranda; Dhermi, 2.5; Vlora, 3.5 or 4; Durres, 5. These are all rough estimates and will vary based on traffic and other factors.
How to Budget for Ksamil Beach
Ksamil Beach is slightly more expensive than other places in Albania; that said, it is still quite a bargain compared to other countries. Tourism in Albania is still in its early stages, and while Ksamil is more developed than most places, you’ll still enjoy lower prices.
For an average hotel room, expect to pay around $20-30 USD per night. A villa fitting about 4 people will cost more like $80 USD per night.
Food in Ksamil is also relatively cheap. A pasta will cost you between $3-5 USD, whereas a seafood plate will cost you around $5-10 USD depending on what you get. There are also various “fast food” options like gyros which will cost you much less, usually around one dollar. Alcohol in Ksamil is also quite cheap, costing around $1-2 per beverage, and even less if you’re brave enough to try rakia – the Albanian national spirit consisting of distilled grapes.
A delicious mussel and arugula pasta that cost less than $3 in Ksamil Beach
You may want to stay in Saranda where there are more hotel and restaurant options and transit to Ksamil during the day – it’s really up to you and what kind of holiday you prefer. I personally chose to stay in Saranda and do day trips from there.
Altogether, for two people splitting a room, your cost will be about $50 a day to live and eat lavishly — or $25 around per person. Not bad for a beach holiday!
What to Do in Ksamil
Ksamil is composed of a handful of islands and a few beaches on the mainland. The beaches connected to the mainland can be quite crowded during the peak summer season.
If you’d prefer a more secluded beach, you can either take a boat to one of the smaller islands or, if you’re a strong swimmer, it is possible to swim over. The distance isn’t that far. However, I’d recommend that you carry all your belongings in a dry bag as there is no access to lockers in Ksamil Beach, as far as I’m aware.
There isn’t much to do in Ksamil except swim and sunbathe. However, there are tons of day trips you can take easily and cheaply, such as visiting the Blue Eye (Syri I Kalter), the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Butrint, and the ancient “stone city” of Gjirokastra, also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, if you want to go a little further afield.
The ruins of Butrint are very close to Ksamil Beach!
Butrint is definitely my top recommendation for a day trip from Ksamil Beach. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site that rightfully deserves the honor. It’s been ruled by Romans, Venetians, Byzantines, and Ottomans, all of whom have left their mark on Butrint. For being over 2,000 years old, it’s in great shape.
You can see a theatre, a baptistery with one of the world’s best-preserved mosaics, a basilica, and even ruins of an ancient suburb. The best part is that almost no one was there, even in the peak season (late August). I maybe saw 15 to 25 other tourists in the entire two hours I spent wandering the park. It’s also surrounded by a beautiful freshwater lake with crystal blue waters. Nature and history all in one… On a scale of one to life in prison, how illegal do you think it is to squat in a UNESCO site?
Lake Butrint has some of the most stunning water – almost as blue as Ksamil
Where to Stay in Ksamil
You can stay in one of the many hotels or handful of hostels in Saranda, or there are a few options in Ksamil Beach too if you want.
If you’re traveling solo, I recommend staying in Saranda. Stay at SR Backpackers, which is run by the wonderful Tomi – he will give you a crash course in the legend that is Albanian hospitality.
Upon hearing that the first few words out of my mouth were about Albanian food, he correctly ascertained that I was a little bit obsessed with food. That led to a promise from him to cook dinner for me the following night, and he treated me to delicious home-cooked pasta with a squid and tomato sauce. The night after that, he threw a beachside barbecue for the entire hostel, stuffing us full of pilaf, pork souvlaki, and shepherd salad, and only asking for the equivalent of a buck or two in return.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
There are so many things our body does for us each day that we take for granted: breathing in and out without thinking, heart beating along unnoticed, words coming out of our mouths with barely a thought. You only start to notice when things begin to break down. Unfortunately for me, this happened about 10,000 feet into climbing Mount Fuji.
Allison Green is a former teacher who has been travel blogging since 2016. She has a Masters in Teaching and a B.A. in English and Creative Writing. Her blog posts merge her background as an educator with her experience traveling to 70+ countries to encourage ethical, meaningful travel. She has been a speaker at the World Travel Writers Conference and her writing, photography, and podcasting work has appeared in National Geographic, CNN Arabic, CBC Canada, and Forbes, amongst others. Now a full-time traveler, she has lived in Prague, Sofia, New York City, and the San Francisco Bay Area.
