Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
Messina sits almost at the northeastern tip of Sicily, just across the strait from Reggio Calabria, the southernmost city in mainland Italy.
Despite its prime location, Messina is one of the less frequently visited places in Sicily, and it’s often overlooked in favor of other, more famous cities.
Sadly, Messina has a long history of devastating events, especially in the 20th century.
After a massive earthquake in 1908 destroyed a great part of Reggio Calabria and Messina, bombardments during World War II damaged the city even further, adding insult to injury.
Though it was mostly reconstructed after this series of disasters, Messina still has many abandoned buildings, which stand a sort of monument to this history of devastation and the slow process of rebuilding.
Viewpoint in Messina of one of its many churches, the Tempio di Christo Re
I stopped off in Messina during one of my trips to Sicily, since I was crossing the strait from Reggio Calabria.
While yes, it may lack some of the charm of small seaside towns like Taormina or Siracusa, I can tell you that it’s still a lovely city worth a visit.
Without any further ado, here’s a short guide of things to do in Messina, one of Sicily’s most underrated cities.
Tips for Visiting Messina
Church of the Madonna di Montalto in Messina
Just being one of the bigger cities in Sicily somehow isn’t enough to attract visitors.
With most travelers heading to Palermo, Agrigento, and Siracusa, Messina is mostly just visited by travelers who have already seen the rest of the island and are looking to avoid the crowds.
On the bright side, the fact that Messina isn’t so famous among tourists means you can often enjoy the city without having to put up with crowds.
While summers are still popular, especially given the many cruises stopping by, you’ll still find fewer people overall in Messina than in most other Sicilian cities and beach towns.
Downtown street in Messina, with a view of the clocktower
Given the island’s summer tourism boom, visiting in the shoulder season can be great; in particular, months like April and October offer the perfect compromise with good weather and moderate crowds.
Also, if you don’t mind passing up your Sicily beach time in exchange for solitude and winter prices, winter can also be a good time to visit, since Messina is not really a beach-centered destination.
Most people will find one day is enough time to explore Messina, so plan your schedule accordingly.
Especially if you’ll be taking a renting a car in Sicily before going on a road trip, I recommend spending the day in Messina before moving on to nearby places like the charming Taormina and beautiful Mount Etna and its wine-growing region.
Things to Do in Messina, Sicily
Details of the Messina cityscape
I’ll be honest: unlike some of the more popular cities in Sicily, Messina isn’t exactly packed with attractions and landmarks. However, this doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do!
You can take your sweet time walking around the city, all while admiring the beautiful churches, and checking out some stunning viewpoints.
Read on for a few more of my favorite things to do in Messina.
Explore the center of Messina.
Traditional old architecture in Messina
Start your visit to Messina off with a walk around its historical center, where you can admire beautiful buildings, check out impressive squares, and visit beautiful churches.
The city may be big, but the historical center is nice and compact, so you can explore it in a couple of hours.
Make your way down to stroll around Cairoli Square, one of the main city squares.
From the square, you can walk along Viale San Martino, Messina’s shopping street, lined with everything from clothing and jewelry stores to bars, bakeries, and gelateria
If you’re short on time but want to see the main sights and learn some cool facts about Messina, you can join this 2-hourWalking Tour.
Your knowledgeable guide will show you around the historical center and tell you legends and historical facts about the city’s landmarks for context.
Admire Messina’s fountains.
The ornate fountains of Messina
Scattered all over Messina’s historical center, you’ll see several artistic fountains which is one of the halmmarks of the city.
The most famous is Fontana di Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune), but others worth checking out include Fontana di Orione, in front of the cathedral in the Piazza del Duomo, and Fontana Falconieri.
Close to Fontana Falconieri, you can also check out a variety of sculptures lining a lovely stairway leading to Santuario Parrocchia S. Maria Di Montalto.
Tip: From here, you can enjoy a lovely view of the Cristo Re Sanctuary.
Discover Messina’s churches.
The Messina Cathedral and its belltower
Messina’s churches are among its most beautiful landmarks, especially when set against the backdrop of the waters of the gorgeous Strait of Messina.
Along with the Messina Cathedral, the Tempio di Cristo Re (pictured nelow) and the Chiesa Santissima Annunziata dei Catalani are the most famous and photogenic churches in town.
TheBasilica Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assuntais known for its astronomical clock (which we’ll talk about in a bit), but it’s also just a beautiful church worth visiting in its own right: its cupola is especially gorgeous!
Interior of the cathedral basilica
Though mostly destroyed in the 1908 earthquake, some elements survived, like the Gothic portal and an apse.
You can get an audio guide for a small fee when visiting the cathedral interior.
Located on top of a hill, Tempio di Cristo Re offers spectacular views over the city and features unique architecture.
View of Tempio di Cristo Re with Reggio di Calabria on the other side of the water
The church was built on the spot previously occupied by the medieval castle of Matagrifone and actually incorporates the ruins of the fortress, including the only tower still standing.
The last church we’ll talk about here, the lovely Chiesa Santissima Annunziata dei Catalani, dates to the Byzantine period and combines both Norman and Arab architectural elements in a blend that is typically Sicilian.
The 12th-century church occupies the place of an ancient temple dedicated to Neptune and is one of the few structures that survived the 1908 earthquake.
Watch the astronomical clock strike noon.
The astronomical clock of Messina
The Cathedral of Messina (aka the Duomo di Messina) is perhaps best known for its astronomical clock, the largest and purportedly most complex (though how that’s measured, I’m not exactly sure) in the world.
The clock was added to the bell tower in 1933 following the cathedral’s reconstruction after the 1908 earthquake.
Built by a Strasbourg-based company, the clock resembles the one in the French city from which it hails.
The clock has several symbolic decorations, the most significant one being the carousel of the days of the week, with a deity representing each day.
Symbols of the zodiac on the clock in Messina
Other parts of the clock are a carousel depicting the stages of life, as well as a statue of Messina’s patron saint, a separate clock that marks the sun’s zodiac symbols, the Madonna of the Letter, and several biblical scenes.
Every day at noon, visitors gather around the clock to watch it come alive.
Watching the statues come to life one by one, complete with movement and sounds, is a must-see attraction in Messina.
Get there a few minutes earlier to catch a good spot for the show!
Check out the art at the Interdisciplinary Regional Museum of Messina.
The Regional Museum of Messina outside the center | Photo Credit: I, Sailko, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Regional Museum of Messina is home to a vast collection of artworks and archeological artifacts, including important works by Caravaggio and Antonello da Messina.
The museum highlights art and culture in Messina dating back between the 12th and 18th centuries.
In addition to its core focus, the museum also houses paintings, sculptures, and artifacts retrieved in the aftermath of the 1908 earthquake.
The museum has a unique location that is itself quite historical: it’s set in a former spinning mill.
Although it’s a bit farther than the other the main landmarks in Messina, you can still easily reach it by bus or a pleasant 30-minute walk.
Stroll through the University Botanical Garden.
Bougainvillea in Messina
Admittedly, Messina is a bit lacking in green spaces for the most part, at least compared to other places in Sicily.
That said, the University Botanical Garden is a delightful exception!
This little green area was first established in the 17th century… but sadly, it was destroyed shortly after during Messina’s revolt against the Spanish.
The botanical garden as you’ll see it today dates to the late 19th century, a little oasis in the center of a busy city. Best of all, it’s free of charge!
However, it’s important to note that it’s only open on weekdays; weekends, it’s closed!
Enjoy the peaceful atmosphere of the Camposanto.
The Camposanto of Messina
A graveyard walk might sound a bit unusual, but strolling through the Monumental Cemetery is one of the more popular things to do in Messina, and it’s also one of the city’s few green spaces.
Also known as Camposanto, the 18th-century cemetery features beautifully decorated chapels, sculptures, and monuments.
Going for a walk through Camposanto is a relaxing and peaceful way to spend an hour in Messina if you run out of things to do.
The cemetery is just a 20-minute walk from Piazza Cairoli, but you can also catch the tram.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
While traveling light and relying on a combination of public transit and walking can be incredible, nothing can truly compare to the joy of getting out on the open road.
There’s something that’s just so freeing about having your own set of wheels, and renting a car in Sicily is the best way to explore all the nooks and crannies of this beautiful island.
Just picture it: windows down for a nice sea breeze, your favorite tunes playing, and gorgeous Mediterranean coastal views as far as the eye can see. Sounds like a dream? Maybe, but it’s easily achieved!
With the freedom that comes with renting a car in Sicily, the entire island will be yours to explore!
You’ll get to stop at picturesque little towns for an espresso or a gelato, pull off the road to admire breathtaking views, even stretch your legs with a walk along gorgeous Mediterranean beaches.
You can reach way more of Sicily’s beaches by car!
So, you’re probably convinced by now that a road trip is the perfect way to explore Sicily, but there’s a few caveats we should go over first.
Perusing your options for renting a car in Sicily only takes a few minutes, but the tips and tricks in this guide will help you make the right choice and avoid any logistical headaches or last-minute complications!
First of all, who to rent with? I always pick Discover Cars to search for the best deal for multiple reasons.
This search engine not only looks at the typical rental car agencies (which can be $$$), it also looks at local, small Sicilian agencies that may offer better deals. Their pricing is straightforward (no bait-and-switches) and they offer free cancellation if you need it.
Over the 16 years or so that I lived in Italy, I took two incredible trips to the island of Sicily, mostly by car, which left me with some of my absolute favorite memories of my extended time in Italy.
Without a doubt, the island is one of the most picturesque regions in all of Italy (and that’s saying something!) and one that is worth exploring by car, which sets it apart from other places like Rome or Venice, which are better enjoyed on foot.
So, without any further ado, here’s everything you need to know about rental cars in Sicily, plus tips for enjoying a Sicilian road trip beyond your wildest dreams.
Quick Facts About Sicily
The views flying into Palermo airport are stunning!
Okay, so maybe there’s a little more ado before we get into the specifics of renting a car in Sicily, but trust me, this is interesting stuff worth knowing!
Sicily is Italy’s largest island, covering an area of more than 25,000 square kilometers (nearly 10,000 square miles). The island counts over 5 million inhabitants and is one of Italy’s autonomous regions.
Sicily is located just off the tip of Italy’s boot, separated from the peninsula by the narrow Strait of Messina.
The capital of Sicily is Palermo, while other major cities include Messina, Catania, Siracusa, and Marsala.
The downtown area of Palermo is known for its stunning architecture
Historically, Sicily was the site of several invasions, all of which have left marks you can see to this day.
To name a few, Germanic, Byzantine, Arab, and Norman conquests took place between the 5th and the 12th centuries.
All of these different influences on Sicily led to the great variety of architectural styles you can still admire in many Sicilian towns.
The Mediterranean island is home to several famous attractions, including (but certainly not limited to!) the Etna volcano near Taormina and Catania, several archaeological sites, multiple UNESCO World Heritage sites, spectacular beaches, and beautiful towns.
Last, but most certainly not least, Sicily is known for its delicious cuisine, from tasty local pasta dishes to decadent desserts!
Should You Rent a Car to Visit Sicily?
Renting a car in Sicily is practically a must to best enjoy the island!
If you’ve read this far, you can probably tell that my answer is going to be a resounding “yes”.
If you want to truly experience the wide variety of landscapes, charming seaside towns, and spectacular beaches along the Sicilian coasts, renting a car in Sicilyis the way to go.
Nothing else will give you the same flexibility in getting around and reaching even the most remote places.
With that said, even I have to admit, if you only plan on visiting one or two big cities, like Palermo and Messina, then booking a car rental in Sicily is not necessary.
In fact, if you’re only visiting one or maybe two cities, you should avoid renting a car to get around the cities.
Between searching for parking spots, dealing with restricted traffic areas, and lots of traffic, you’ll just end up stressed out – not the Sicilian vacation vibe we’re hoping for!
Roads in Sicily
Be aware of the various road conditions in Sicily!
The roads in Sicily are generally good, especially on the motorway (autostrada).
The first thing you’ll want to note when preparing to drive in Sicily is the types of roads you’ll be driving on!
Unlike the peninsula, Sicily is only partially connected via motorway. You will likely not drive along motorways a lot unless you want to get straight from Palermo to Catania, for instance.
Instead, you’ll mostly drive on small, toll-free roads.
Driving along scenic routes in Sicily usually means the roads are smaller and can get crowded at certain times.
On these roads, the speed limit is also lower, so you may take a long time to get from one place to another.
The biggest headache about driving in Sicily is its traffic.
Don’t get stuck in heavy traffic in Sicily’s cities if you can help it!
That being said, roads are mostly in good condition unless you get really off the beaten track.
In most cases, the only thing you may need to worry about when it comes to driving in Sicily is traffic, especially during the summer months.
But hey, you’re on vacation, so where’s the rush? Just bring a good road trip playlist and settle in for a gorgeous drive.
With confidence and patience, you’ll make your way around the beautiful island without problems.
Where to Rent a Car in Sicily
Use a car rental search engine to find the best price.
Rent a car through an affordable, reputable company and breathe easy.
I don’t recommend going based on blind brand loyalty when it comes to booking your Sicilian car rental.
I’ve had awful experiences with seemingly reputable car agencies abroad (I’m looking at you, Hertz, and the one time I racked up $150 in BS fees while renting a car in Northern Italy).
I now always use Discover Cars to both 1) find the best price for my rental and 2) compare that to the recent reviews to ensure no travelers have had recent issues with that company.
And as we’ll go into below, your rental price in Sicily does not include full coverage, just a collision damage waiver — which isn’t sufficient coverage in case anything goes awry.
Discover Cars has rentals available all over Sicily, so it’s easy to compare prices and find the best deal around.
Airports almost always offer the best deals on your Sicily car rental.
Renting a car at Catania Airport (above) or Palermo Airport offer the best value
The most common places to rent a car in Sicily are the main airports of Palermo and Catania.
Airport rentals are the most convenient option, not just because you get to pick up your car as soon as you arrive, but also because they have the lowest prices.
Many people choose to start by renting a car in Palermo, because it’s one of the largest airports in Sicily.
However, you can also rent a car in many towns and cities of Sicily.
Generally, renting a car in smaller destinations like Taormina is more expensive.
You can also find car rentals in many cities across the island, but you’ll pay more for it.
The trade-off in price may be work out to be in your favor if you only want to rent a car in Sicily for a portion of your vacation.
In places like Trapani, Cefalù, Messina, Taormina, or Ragusa, you should have no problem finding car rentals within the cities, but be warned!
Prices here are a fair bit higher than renting a car from one of the airports, so expect to pay more.
That said, if you’re planning a city-heavy itinerary, like spending 3 days in Palermo or 2 days in Catania, renting a car won’t really make sense in those destinations.
In that case, it may be better to rent your car at the end of your city break before you go explore a more remote corner of the island.
The cost of a car rental in Sicily depends on seasonality and location.
Car rental prices are highest in July and August, when everyone rushes Sicily’s beaches!
Renting a car in Sicily can be relatively inexpensive in the low season, but prices jump up a bit during the peak season rush of summer.
Even so, if you book far enough in advance, you can find deals as low as $35 per day when renting a car at the airport.
That price includes basic collision liability, doesn’t include full coverage rental insurance though, which you should definitely consider.
When booking through Discover Cars, full coverage can cost under $7 per day — not bad for peace of mind, and a way better price than you’d get at an airport rental counter.
Also be sure to book at the airport vs. the city center whenever possible to help you save money on your Sicily car rental.
There’s a serious premium on rental fees from the city center – just as an example, renting from Palermo city center instead of Punta Raisi airport can cost you up to an extra $100 daily, and other cities are similar!
Booking your rental car early can help lock in better rates.
Renting your car early will save you money! Just make sure you have free cancellation.
Bargain hunters, take note! Booking well ahead of your trip can be a great way to lock in lower fares, and many rental services even offer free cancellations, so go ahead and book early.
Of course, no matter what you do, renting a car in July or August will always cost more than booking a car hire in March or November.
One more note on cost: as you might expect, your rental rates won’t include gas money, so be aware that recent fuel price increases have made it a bit more expensive to fill your tank.
If you ask me, even though it’s a little more money, getting full coverage is so worth it for the peace of mind that comes with knowing you’ve got full protection in the unfortunate event of an accident.
I’ve dealt with situations in the past where I got a flat tire, had my rental car keyed, etc. — having full coverage has always been useful because these are the little things that are a lot more likely to happen to you than a full-on collision.
Have all the necessary documents – especially your international driving permit!
In addition to your license, you need an IDP to drive in Sicily!
Before you even board your flight to Sicily, check that you have all the necessary documents.
To rent a car in Sicily, you will need your driving license, an international driving permit, a credit card (not just a debit card!), and your passport.
Make sure all your documents are current and won’t expire soon, and don’t forget to get an international driving permit (IDP) in your home country before traveling if that’s needed.
You will want to check on whether or not you need an IDP based on what country your license originates from. If you’re from the EU, you’re in the clear, but most other countries require it.
If you’re from the USA, you can do this at an AAA location or online, and it costs about $20 USD plus any passport photo fees.
This is something that Italy requires that many European countries do not, so be aware of this!
While it is not 100% consistent that you will be asked for your IDP at the car rental counter, you can incur a large fine if you are pulled over or stopped at a checkpoint and you do not have one.
Choose the right transmission type.
Only drive automatic? You’ll be fine, but make sure you book in advance (and check you don’t book a manual!)
If you know how to drive a stick, you’re in luck!
In Italy, manual transmission is still the most common type, which means it’ll even be a little cheaper when renting, so pay attention to this when you are picking out your car.
This can sometimes sneak up on you – when Allison was renting a car in Tahiti, she forgot to check that her car would be automatic – luckily, she snagged the last automatic car available, though at a premium!
Don’t worry though, if you’re like me and a little (or a lot) unused to driving stick, automatic transmissions will still be available for rentals!
Just be sure to book in advance, especially if you want to drive in Sicily during high season.
Luckily, the car rental search engine we recommend, Discover Cars, has a generous cancellation policy (typically allowed within 2 days of arrival), so you can book early, lock in a good rate, and make any necessary changes along the way.
Sicily’s roads are narrow, so small cars reign supreme here!
When it comes to driving in Sicily, size matters.
If you’re coming from the US, this might come as a bit of a shock, but overall, cars in Europe are smaller (and so are the roads, and parking spaces, and basically everything).
Like, way smaller. This is the continent that birthed the SmartCar, after all!
If you travel with a lot of luggage, be sure to check out the specifications before choosing your rental to make sure you’ll have enough room to fit everything and everyone.
Fair warning, though; renting a large car is definitely not ideal for driving in Sicily. Let me explain a bit more.
If you want to see picturesque little villages and charming beaches near Catania, Taormina, etc., you have to take scenic routes. Some of these roads are narrow and parking can be harder to find.
So if you can avoid it (i.e. you don’t have too much luggage and are not traveling with a large family or a family with really young kids), renting an SUV is a bad idea in Sicily.
Lastly, pay attention to the number of passengers allowed in your rental car.
Some small cars can only take a maximum of four people, whereas most car rentals in the US can take five, so don’t let this catch you off-guard!
Be careful when you choose your pick-up and drop-off locations!
Whenever possible, try to rent and return your car at the same place!
It’s always cheaper to pick up and drop off your rental car at the same location, but that’s not always the most convenient.
If you don’t want to do a circular itinerary like this 4 day Sicily itinerary based in Palermo, you can drop the car off in a different location, as long as you’re willing and able topay an extra fee.
If you want to rent your car in mainland Italy, you’ll have to check in advance whether you can drive it to Sicily.
Most car rentals will not let you take the car on the ferry crossing to Sicily, which can be a headache.
If that’s the case, your best option is to rent a car in Messina when you arrive in Sicily.
Likewise, if you rent your car in Sicily and want to cross over to the Italian mainland, you need to make sure the rental company allows this.
You may have to return your car and then book a separate rental for driving in other Italian regions. Bureaucracy, am I right?
Have cash for fuel, tolls, etc.
Always have some euros on you in case your cards don’t work!
Most gas stations will allow you to pay by card, but you should always carry some cash just in case.
If your credit card is not accepted or the card payment system is simply out of service (as has happened to me!), you don’t want to be stuck with an empty tank, so make sure you withdraw some euros for emergencies.
You’ll never be sad about having an extra 20 or 40 euro on hand in case things go awry.
Important Driving Rules in Sicily
Driving in Sicily isn’t particularly complicated, as long as you are aware of a few specific rules.
Generally speaking, you should not have any trouble, especially if you come from any other country where you drive on the right side of the road.
To help you avoid the most common mistakes travelers make when renting a car in Sicily, here are a few important driving rules and laws you must be aware of.
Beware of Limited Traffic Areas (ZTLs)
Example of a ZTL sign and ‘attiva’ status from another city in Italy
Ah, the ZTL, the foreign traveler’s number one nemesis.
One thing that often gets tourists in trouble when driving anywhere in Italy, including Sicily, is passing through the so-called ZTL.
The acronym stands for Zona Traffico Limitato and means limited traffic area.
These areas are usually within the historical centers and limit through-traffic to local residents only.
ZTL are not always active, which can make things trickier.
However, you will always see a sign where a ZTL starts stating whether or not it is active.
If you see “ZTL Attiva,” you’ll have to find another way around.
If the sign says “ZTL Non Attiva,” you’re good to go.
Always double check the signs, and be warned: your GPS or Google Maps might be helpful tools, but even they may try to lead you through areas with a ZTL, so don’t follow them blindly… or you may end up with hefty fees!
Many of these ZTLs are patrolled by camera, so you may end up with a surprise ticket in your inbox, even months after returning your rental car!
Parking can be quite difficult in the cities.
While generally renting a car is helpful, it can be a headache in cities
Another thing you need to watch out for when driving in Sicily is parking.
Let me start off by saying that finding parking in the biggest cities, especially in the city center, can be tricky (which might even be a bit of an understatement – Herculean feat may be a bit hyperbolic, but it feels more accurate).
Whenever possible, try to park a bit outside of the center and walk.
Lucky for you, Sicily’s got enough beautiful scenery to make the walk a pleasant one!
Look down: the colors of the parking lot lines show whether they’re paid or free.
As a rule, blue parking spots have a fee, white ones are free, and yellow ones are reserved for disabled people or unloading only.
You’ll find machines where you can pay for parking within a few meters, but you’ll need to carry coins for these (to reiterate our driving tip about always carrying cash above).
As an easier option, you can download the EasyPark app before you arrive in Italy so that you can pay with your phone.
If you see no line, check for signs around, but make sure you never park in front of a “passo carrabile,” or you’ll get a fine.
These are clearly marked on the gates or doors and are common for garages.
Be aware of road tolls.
A toll booth for the autostrada near Catania — you’d want to avoid the yellow lanes!
While many Sicilian roads are free to drive on, you’ll have to pay tolls when driving on the large motorway. But how to spot one?
You can easily recognize motorways as they are signaled with the letter A (abbreviated for Autostrada), and the signs are on a green background.
You’ll always pass through toll booths to access the motorway, and this is where you need to pay attention.
You’ll notice a few different booths with different payment methods, so be sure to follow the signs.
The yellow sign reading Telepass is for people who have the Telepass system in their cars.
If you have a Telepass, the system allows you to drive right through the booth while paying the toll directly from a bank or credit card.
If you don’t have the Telepass system, you won’t be able to drive through these booths… at least not without getting fined!
As a general rule, if you’re a tourist, avoid the Telepass lanes like the plague!
The other booths allow you to grab a ticket and pay by card or cash.
The way this works is that you pay by the distance you drive.
You always take a ticket when entering the highway, which you will need to present at the exit booth to pay the corresponding amount.
You can usually pay by card at most toll booths, but some may only take cash, so always bring some change.
Exact change is best, so keep a varied selection of some euro coins on hand, too!
Most toll booths are automatic, but you may occasionally find manned booths.
Always adhere to speed limits
Example of a speed limit sign in Italy
This one’s probably obvious, but it’s worth mentioning anyway.
Respecting speed limits will spare you a lot of headache and some hefty fines, so always check to make sure you’re driving under the posted limit.
As a general rule, the maximum speed is 130 km/hr on the toll motorway, 110 km/hr on the slightly smaller highway, 90 km/hr on regular roads outside inhabited areas, and 50 km/hr inside inhabited areas.
However, always check posted signs, as they may differ slightly in certain areas, or there may be a speed trap where things slow down momentarily (such as when driving through a town) before speeding back up.
Aside from sticking to the speed limits, you must be aware of speed cameras which can fine you automatically.
In Italian, these are called autovelox and are always signaled several meters in advance.
Never drink and drive.
Visiting Sicily’s vineyards? Great. Driving impaired? Not cool.
Lastly, this should also go without saying, but don’t (seriously, don’t) drink and drive.
Keep in mind that the legal alcohol limit for driving in Italy is 0.05%, which corresponds to one or two glasses of wine — but exactly how much depends on a variety of factors.
Note that for Americans, this alcohol limit is even stricter than it is back home, where the legal limit for your BAC (blood alcohol content) is 0.08%!
Your blood alcohol level depends on many factors, from the type of drink, size of the drink, time you wait between or after a drink, and whether you drink on an empty stomach — just to name a few.
To stay within the limit and be safe, avoid alcohol entirely or stick to just one glass of wine with your meal.
After all, if you are an oenophile — amateur or advanced — you can’t travel to Italy without trying the local wine.
Just make sure you factor in a nice, leisurely break after having a drink, perhaps taking a long stroll to sober you up a bit before getting back in your rental car, for everyone’s safety!
Navigating the roads can be somewhat tricky.
Unless you’re one of those lucky travelers blessed with a supernatural ability to find your way around (seriously, I’m jealous), you’ll probably need a little help, especially when visiting smaller towns on the island.
The two most common options to get around are with a GPS in your car (which you should confirm when booking your rental car), or by using Google Maps or some other online map service on your phone.
If using Google Maps or something else like Maps.me, be sure to download the offline map for the region so that you won’t get turned around if you don’t have data and you make a wrong turn.
However, don’t rely too heavily on these systems. While they are great to get you around, they can also get things wrong.
Always look at the signs and check whether it makes sense to follow the map or GPS.
This is especially important when driving in the city, where you may come across limited traffic areas (ZTLs) and your GPS insists on forging ahead anyway.
Don’t blindly listen to it; always pay attention and follow what your eyes are telling you, not your GPS.
Best Time for a Road Trip in Sicily
There’s no bad time for a Sicily road trip.
Winter trips to Sicily are great for culture: churches, ruins, museums, etc.
Great news! Sicily has pretty good weather year-round, so you really can’t go wrong here.
What you do need to take into account is how crowded the island will be as well as what kind of weather you are hoping for.
The peak season runs from mid-June through the beginning of September, so as you might expect, this is when renting a car (along with everything else) in Sicily is more expensive.
A road trip in Sicily in winter may not be the best for swimming and sunbathing, but it can be nice for a cultural trip based on sightseeing the cities, enjoying the local gastronomy, and visiting cute towns.
The weather’s still pleasant enough to enjoy walking around, and you’ll have more places to yourself without all the summer tourists!
However, the shoulder season (spring and fall) are arguably the best of all worlds.
Places like Mondello near Palermo can be jam-packed in summer but lovely off-season.
For my money, though, the best combination of pleasant weather and fewer tourists is in early spring or late fall.
Late March to mid-April and all of October are ideal months for a road trip to Sicily.
Once November rolls around, the weather starts to turn for the worse and many seasonal establishments close up shop or seriously reduce their hours until the spring season starts.
(Editor’s note: Take it from someone who planned a honeymoon to Puglia in November…)
Places To Discover on a Road Trip to Sicily
Renting a car in Sicily lets you get off the beaten path!
You can visit Mt. Etna at your own pace if you rent your own car!
The best part of driving around Sicily is exploring places you’d never get to with public transportation.
You can discover charming small towns like Sambuca di Sicilia, Niscemi, Scicli, Marzamemi, and Scopello.
Even better, renting a car in Sicily allows you to easily explore national parks and preserves, including the Etna National Park, Nebrodi National Park, and Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro.
These are often hard to get to with public transit or require a pricy tour in the case of Etna.
Plus, it brings you to Sicily’s most remote beaches and towns
You can have beautiful places like Ognina Beach all to yourself!
Lastly, if you’re really looking to get away from it all, you can even discover hidden beaches and coves you’d never get to by bus.
(We’ve written about them in these posts about beaches near Taormina, beaches near Palermo, and beaches near Catania!).
It’ll also allow you to visit dozens of darling Sicilian beach towns that are otherwise a pain to get to by public transit.
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If you were on the fence about renting a car in Sicily, I hope this guide gave you the information you needed to make your decision!
If you do decide to rent a car, do your research!
Be sure to read the most recent reviews of the rental car agencies you’re looking at (luckily, Discover Cars makes this easy) and opt for full coverage for extra peace of mind.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
Captivating Catania is a Sicilian city right at the foot of Mount Etna that deserves more attention than it gets.
It’s best known for its gorgeous Baroque architecture, charming historical town, and of course, stunningly gorgeous views of the spectacular (and spectacularly active) volcano.
When living in Italy, I made several trips to Sicily, and on one of those, I absolutely fell in love with Catania for its stunning architecture and vibrant atmosphere.
While other major Sicily destinations like Palermo and Taormina might get all the attention from tourists and travel guides, it’s worth stepping off the typical tourist path to explore Catania’s beauty!
Yes, Catania is a major airline hub, but people often zip out of Catania in a hurry on their way to other destinations like Taormina and Syracuse.
Don’t know where to start? Don’t worry! This guide will help you check off all the key monuments and spots for a quick two day trip to Catania.
Your first day of this Catania itinerary will be spent exploring the charming historical center and taking in the local culture, while the second day is dedicated to the Etna hike, which is a can’t-miss attraction when visiting Catania.
Things to Know Before Visiting Catania
Catania is Sicily’s largest city, so if you only have two days in Catania to explore, you’ll want to have a plan to make the most of that time.
Luckily, this guide will help you make the most of a short visit!
Here are a few helpful things to keep in mind while planning your itinerary for Catania.
Getting To and Around Catania
Catania’s airport is the largest in Sicily and it’s just outside the city center.
By bus, it only takes around half an hour to travel from the airport to the Catania center – talk about convenience!
If you’ll be coming to Sicily from the mainland (via the ferry departing from either Villa San Giovanni or Reggio di Calabria), you’ll disembark in Messina.
From there, you can drive for just over an hour or catch a 2-hour train straight from Messina to Catania.
The historical center of Catania is relatively small, which is great because it means you can get around on foot without spending your whole day cursing your footwear (though definitely wear comfy walking shoes!).
If you follow this itinerary for 2 days in Catania, you won’t need to use public transportation, but you’ll still find plenty of buses serving the key areas in case you want to give your feet a break.
That said, if you want to explore outside Catania, renting a car becomes a good idea!
Like the rest of the island of Sicily, Catania’s incredible Mediterranean climate makes it a great place to visit year-round.
If you’re looking to avoid the crowds, why not take advantage of the gentle winter weather and visit then?
Well, not so fast. It’s not that simple!
The one downside of this approach is that it may be more complicated to hike up Mount Etna in the colder season, so if that’s something you want to do, avoid visiting from November to early March.
On the other hand, summer is the peak of tourist season, so brace yourself and expect Catania to be very crowded.
On top of that, it can get quite hot, making it less than ideal for a busy day spent walking around Catania’s landmarks.
All in all, if you can, you should also avoid visiting from late June to mid-September.
That leaves you with, in my humble opinion, two brilliant options left for planning your trip.
Spring and fall are the seasons when the weather is nice and the crowds are not overwhelming, as long as you avoid Easter!
In short: the entire month of May and the second half of September are the two sweet spots when it comes to planning a Sicily trip.
How Many Days Do You Need in Catania?
Like I said earlier, the thing that really made me fall in love with Catania was the sheer variety of spectacular attractions it offers.
If you had all the time in the world, you could easily spend four to five days in Catania to explore the major landmarks, visit museums, and go on short day trips to the surrounding areas.
If you’re really looking to save time and just want to visit the main landmarks, you could even do that in just a single day, given how compact Catania’s center is.
However, with Catania being so close to Mount Etna, it’d be a shame to miss out on the unforgettable volcano hike.
The views of the Mediterranean Sea’s gorgeous waters that you’ll see from its slopes are picture-perfect, especially when contrasted against the rugged volcanic landscape — trust me, you won’t regret taking the time to see them.
So go ahead, add an extra day to your Catania itinerary – it’s worth it.
Trust me, two days is the perfect amount of time to see the major sights and hike the volcano if you have limited time to spare on your Sicily trip.
Day 1 of Your Catania Itinerary
Have a delicious Sicilian breakfast.
If you’re anything like me, local foods are one of the best things about traveling, and Catania’s got plenty to offer.
So once you wake up on your first day in Catania, stretch your legs and get ready to start walking, because it’s time for coffee and a tasty breakfast!
Head to Ciao Café, only a couple streets over from Piazza del Duomo, and try their stuffed croissants, available in both sweet and savory options.
You can even get a croissant filled with scrambled eggs – that’ll certainly keep you sated for the busy day ahead of you!
Now that you’re all fueled up and ready to see the sights, head to Piazza del Duomo, Catania’s main square, to check out some of the city’s most important landmarks.
I’ll go through it in a self-guided fashion, but you can also book a guided walking tour of the city center which will cover these sights and give you even more historical context behind them.
🌟RECOMMENDED: City Highlights Walking Tour – Start Time: 10:30 AM – Length: 2 hours – Rating: 4.7/5 stars with 200+ reviews
Admire the Fountain of the Elephant and its quirky history.
As you arrive in the square, you’ll notice the iconic Fountain of the Elephant, Catania’s symbol.
The fountain is called u Liotru in Sicilian, which comes from Eliodoro, a legendary personality from Catania.
Legend has it that Eliodoro failed to become a bishop, so as revenge, he used magic to disturb religious services in the town, including making a stone elephant walk.
Believe it or not, it’s a fun piece of local lore!
Architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini designed and created the fountain between 1735 and 1737, as part of the city’s renovation after the devastating earthquake of 1693.
The elephant carries an Egyptian obelisk on his back and points his trunk at the Cathedral of Saint Agata.
But Catania and elephants go hand-in-hand with a history that goes back way before this fountain was even conceptualized.
In fact, the elephant has been the symbol of Catania since 1239.
If we zoom back even before that, during the Muslim conquest of Sicily in the 9th and 10th century CE, Catania’s name was Balad-el-fil or Medinat-el-fil, meaning “the city of the elephant.”
Visit the Cathedral of Saint Agata.
From the fountain, follow the elephant’s pointing trunk to Cattedrale di Sant’Agata, conveniently directing you to our next stop on this Catania itinerary!
Also known as Duomo di Sant’Agata, this is Catania’s most important church. The cathedral is dedicated to the martyr Saint Agata, the patron saint of Catania.
The church has a long history and was renovated multiple times following damages caused by earthquakes and fires – Sicily certainly hasn’t had an easy time of it.
The original cathedral was built at the end of the 11th century on the ruins of the Roman Achillean Baths, which lie under Piazza del Duomo and are open for tours.
The church was destroyed first in 1169 and then in 1693 by the most destructive earthquake ever recorded in Sicily.
To restore the cathedral after this second round of damage, architect Gian Battista Vaccarino designed the current Baroque façade in 1711.
You can visit the cathedral for free at any time except during mass. For a €3 fee, you can get a guided tour of the cathedral.
If you’re looking for the full historical experience, you can combine the guided tour with a visit to the Achillean Baths for €5.
Head underground to explore the Achillean Baths.
Photo Credit: Erik Törner via Flickr (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0)
As you may have already guessed, Catania has a fascinating underground filled with ancient ruins.
One of the most famous sites is the Achillean Baths, of which a small portion remains for tourists to explore and visualize how life was nearly two millennia ago.
Though the exact construction date of the baths is unknown, they likely date all the way back to the 4th or 5th century CE.
If you’re curious about Catania’s ancient history, pop underground to explore the system of ancient paths and pools once covered in marble.
Though the spectacular marble facades have been lost to time, you can still see wall decorations, while the inscriptions uncovered in the baths are now on display inside Castello Ursino.
Check the panoramic view from Badia di Sant’Agata.
Right by the cathedral, you’ll see another beautiful Baroque church, Chiesa della Badia di Sant’Agata.
The church, like many other buildings of its era in Catania, was built by Vaccarini in the gorgeous Baroque style.
A nunnery of the Benedictine order was once attached to the church, hence the name Badia, which means abbey.
In 2015, after a long restoration process, the church finally opened its terraces and dome to the public.
For a €5 fee, you can climb to the terrace and take in an astonishing panoramic view of the whole city.
From up there, you can admire beautiful landmarks like the cathedral, the castle, the Massimo Bellini theater, and the other churches of the historical center.
Visit the Greek-Roman Theater.
From the abbey, walk five minutes to reach the ancient Greek-Roman Theater.
Stepping into this site is like stepping back in time, since the theater as you see it today dates to the 2nd century CE, probably to the restoration period initiated by Emperor Hadrian.
Next to the Greek-Roman theater, you’ll see the smaller Odeon Theater, not quite as impressive but worth a peek.
The Roman theater is a restoration of an older Greek theater, believed to date to the 4th century BCE.
The theater fell into disuse around the 6th century CE, and parts of it were stripped away for parts to build modest dwellings for everyday citizens.
The area became known as Quartiere Grotte, or the Cave Quarter in English.
It wasn’t until the late 19th century that the local administration decided to remove the dwellings and excavate and showcase the theater… although the process wasn’t completed for almost a century (likely delayed in no small part due to Italy’s legendary bureaucracy!).
The entry ticket to the theater is €6, and it includes the visit to the Odeon Theater as well.
Discover the Monastero dei Benedettini di San Nicolò l’Arena.
If you want to join an English-language guided tour of the Monastero dei Benedettini di San Nicolò l’Arena, you’ll want to plan your itinerary around it, since the only available time slot is 1 PM.
Alternatively, Italian tours take place every hour between 11 AM and 5 PM, and you get a translated text to follow the tour, so it’s doable at other hours, just perhaps not as enjoyable.
You can’t explore the monastery on your own, but the guided tour is totally worth it. The monastery is one of the most beautiful landmarks in Catania.
Just be sure to book a few days in advance, as English tours tend to sell out faster.
The guided tour lasts just over an hour and takes you through the key areas of the monastery, including the beautiful cloisters, the underground library, the ancient Roman domus, the gorgeous garden Giardino dei Novizi, and the monumental stairway, one of the monastery’s most iconic features.
Stop for lunch somewhere delicious.
After your monastery visit, it’s time to stop for lunch, and you’re in for a real treat, with several mouth-watering restaurant options within walking distance.
For delicious fish and seafood, check out Cu a Voli Cotta Cu a Voli Crura(try saying that ten times fast!), just 10 minutes from the monastery.
Don’t worry if you don’t eat fish, since their vegetarian options are excellent, like an otherworldly pistachio pasta I still dream about.
If you’d rather just stop off for a quick bite, try the traditional arancini (fried risotto balls stuffed with various bits of goodness) at Canusciuti Sicilian Café, just a 5-minute walk from the monastery.
They serve a variety of arancini, tasty sandwiches, fried seafood, and more, so you’re sure to find something to delight your taste buds!
Another option is to take a tasty street food tour of Catania! These food tours start on the early side, so have a light breakfast and switch up this itinerary a bit.
I would swap around a few things on the itinerary so that you do most of your sightseeing after your street food tour (which runs from around 10 AM to 1 PM)
🌟 RECOMMENDED:Street Food Tour – Start Time: 10:00 AM – Length: 3 hours – Rating: 4.7/5 stars with 70+ reviews
After lunch, head over to see another important landmark in Catania, the 13th-century Castello Ursino.
This one’s also nearby: you can easily reach the castle on foot in just 10 minutes from Piazza del Duomo.
At the time of its construction, the castle was on a cliff overlooking the sea, but later Etna eruptions were so severe they changed the landscape completely, and the castle is now one kilometer inland!
The castle was built during the reign of Frederik II as a royal residence, and it later served as the seat of the Sicilian Parliament.
This once-seaside castle has special historical significance, given that it was one of the few that survived the massive 1693 earthquake.
In 1932, the city of Catania acquired the castle and opened the Civic Museum inside to house a rich collection of artworks and artifacts documenting the city’s history.
You can visit the museum and stroll through Catania’s past for just a €6 fee.
Take a tour or catch a show at Teatro Massimo Bellini.
One thing you can’t miss while exploring Catania is Teatro Massimo Bellini, the city’s main opera house.
You can get a guided tour of the theater, but to truly appreciate the beauty of this gorgeous space, you’ll want to settle in and enjoy a show.
Check the theater website to see what’s on and grab a ticket to watch a play in this lavish 19th-century theater!
Tickets start from as little as €15 for concerts and €20 for opera shows – talk about a steal.
The afternoon shows usually start at 5:30 PM, and if you really want to make a night of it, you can check out the evening shows at 8:30 PM.
Stroll on Via Etnea and check out some piazzas and churches.
Ready to do a little shopping and support some local vendors? Spend the rest of the afternoon strolling along the main shopping street in Catania, Via Etnea.
The street starts from Piazza del Duomo and continues for almost 3 kilometers until Viale Marco Polo.
The portion of the street running from Piazza del Duomo to Basilica della Collegiata is reserved for pedestrians, so you can enjoy a pleasant walk while stopping in to admire the boutiques and beautiful Baroque buildings.
Just one block from Piazza del Duomo, you’ll reach Piazza Università, a wide square surrounded by beautiful 18th-century buildings.
Don’t forget to stop and admire the gorgeous ornate façade of Basilica della Collegiata, and maybe step inside to see the vaulted ceiling covered in beautiful frescoes.
Admire the semi-underground Roman Amphitheater.
Keep walking north along Via Etnea until Piazza Stesicoro.
There, right in the middle of the modern city, you can see the ruins of the Roman Amphitheater of Catania.
The amphitheater dates back to 300 BCE and is now below ground level, as the modern buildings were built on top of it.
Only a small portion of the ancient structure is still visible, but it’s still an impressive sight to see Catania’s past poking through to the present day.
Especially when you look at it from angles where you can see both the Roman ruins and the modern city in the same glance, it really reminds you how the city was quite literally built atop its past!
Have a delicious Sicilian dinner.
Last, but definitely not least, end your day with dinner (and maybe even a glass of local Italian wine!) at one of the many restaurants around the historical center.
For great local food, try Trattoria U Fucularu. Being Sicily, it’s no surprise that their specialty is seafood, but you can find other options too, including vegetarian dishes.
If that’s busy or just doesn’t suit your tastes, Ristorante da Antonio is another lovely place serving delicious Sicilian seafood specialties and other local dishes.
A few Sicilian specialties to look out for include pasta alla norma (an eggplant pasta originally from Catania, great for vegetarians) and pasta con le sarde (a flavor bomb of a pasta, made with sardines, fennel, raisins, and pine nuts).
Day 2 of Your Catania Itinerary
Pick one of three ways to experience Mount Etna.
After your first day exploring the city, it’s time to get out and take in the natural beauty of the local landscape.
Catania is a popular departure point for guided tours on Mount Etna, and with good reason: it’s practically Catania’s backyard!
Less than an hour away from the city, the volcano is among the most active in the world. While you’re so close, you shouldn’t pass up the chance to hike it. You’d regret it later!
If you decided to rent a car in Sicily, it’s possible to drive to Mount Etna yourself.
Alternatively, if you didn’t rent a car, you’ll have to join one of the many guided tours — public transportation won’t get you far when it comes to experiencing Etna.
You can choose between purely hiking tours or experiences including tasting local products.
Here are a few popular tours departing from Catania that I’d recommend.
From mid-May to mid-October, this tour offers two daily sessions, one in the morning and one in the afternoon that ends with a beautiful sunset view.
If you’re visiting during the rest of the year, however, you’ll only be able to take the morning tour.
This tour includes almost everything: a transfer with pick-up from your accommodation in Catania, a local guide, a short trek on Etna, a visit to a lava flow cave with safety equipment, and some delicious tastings of local products.
However, lunch is not included, so be sure to plan accordingly and pack something to eat… the tastings will be delicious, but not quite enough to make a lunch out of.
On your way from Catania to Mount Etna, your knowledgeable local guide will tell you all sorts of fun facts about the volcano’s explosive history.
Then, you go on a guided walk to admire the spectacular lava fields and ancient craters.
After the hike, relax with a small tasting of Sicilian biscuits (known as cantucci) and local wine.
Once this tasty treat has boosted your spirits, it’s time to dive in and explore a lava flow cave with your guide. Don’t worry, you’ll get helmets and flashlights for this.
On your way back, your group will stop at the Monte Pomiciaro viewpoint to take in the panoramic view of the Valle del Bove, one of the best views in Sicily you could ask for!
On this incredible 7-hour tour of Mount Etna, you’ll walk through the lava fields with a naturalist guide who will tell you about the volcano’s history.
You’ll see the lava flows left over from the 1792 eruption, learn about the resilient fauna and flora on the volcano who are able to call this unpredictable place home, admire the spectacular Bove Valley, and even explore a lava cave.
Along the way, you’ll have the option to stop and try local products, but bring some extra cash, since these aren’t included in the tour price.
However, the price does include all the necessary equipment to hike on Etna, from hiking shoes and walking sticks to jackets and rain ponchos if necessary.
This is a big perk if Etna is the only hike you’ll be doing in Sicily and you don’t want to pack a bunch of hiking gear that’ll only get pulled out once!
This tour is usually available year-round, but you’ll need to secure your spot a few days in advance, as it’s likely to sell out, especially in the summer.
The tour starts at the Rifugio Sapienza, roughly an hour from the center of Catania.
Public transport to the refuge is limited to nonexistent, so this tour is a better option for those who decided to rent a car or don’t mind paying the extra fee for the transfer.
↳ Not sure who to rent your car with? I always pick Discover Cars to search for the best deal for multiple reasons.
This search engine not only looks at the typical rental car agencies (which can be $$$), it also looks at local, small Sicilian agencies that may offer better deals. Their pricing is straightforward (no bait-and-switches) and they offer free cancellation if you need it.
On this tour, you’ll hike with an alpine and volcano guide and experience the most spectacular views imaginable of the volcano.
Catch the cable car at Rifugio Sapienza, then ride in a 4×4 Jeep to get to the trailhead at 2,900 meters (9,500 feet).
From the trailhead, it’s time to hike for about 1.5 hours uphill, but rest assured, all that hard work is going to pay off when you get to experience the otherworldly view of the volcano summit.
After you catch your breath, the descent takes around 2 hours, since you need to be extra careful on the volcanic landscape when descending.
If you have any time and energy left after the Etna hike, you can spend it by going on a relaxed stroll around the lovely Villa Bellini or visiting one of Catania’s many museums.
A few options include the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sicily, the Cinema Museum, or the history museum Museo Storico dello Sbarco in Sicilia 1943.
For one last vacation indulgence, end your trip with another Sicilian dinner.
Try one of the places mentioned above, or check out Vuciata, another traditional Sicilian restaurant with local specialties that’ll have you planning your next trip back to Catania before you know it.
Where to Stay in Catania
Definitely stay central when you book your hotel in Catania. With this short two-day itinerary for Catania, it’s all about location, location, location when it comes to accommodations!
For the purposes of this post, in high season, budget hotels are under $100 USD per night, mid-range hotels are $100-200 USD per night, and luxury hotels are $200 USD or more per night.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
At the top of a hill overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, Taormina is a small but picturesque town on Sicily’s eastern coast.
Home to the spectacular Ancient Greek Theater, gorgeous coastal views, lovely beaches, and the imposing sight of Mount Etna in the background, Taormina is certainly a town worth discovering.
I visited Taormina twice on my two trips to Sicily while living in Italy.
The first time wasn’t enough: I had to go back for a second visit!
Trust me: it’s impossible not to fall in love with the breathtaking coastal views, the history, and the flavors of Taormina.
In this short guide, I’ll give you an idea of how to structure a 2-day Taormina itinerary.
Don’t worry, even with just 2 days in Taormina, you can accomplish a lot: we’re talking historical sites, beautiful beaches, delicious food, and a memorable hike on Europe’s highest active volcano!
What to Know Before Visiting Taormina
Before diving into this 2 day Taormina itinerary, there are a few things to know to help you plan your trip.
Here are a few practical tips — plucked from my on-the-ground experience! — to help you plan the perfect trip to this lovely Sicilian town.
The Best Time to Visit Taormina
Sicily has the fortune of pretty good weather year-round, which makes it an enticing destination all year.
In winter, temperatures rarely go below 15°C (59°F), so you can take advantage of the smaller crowds (and lower prices) to enjoy a low-season vacation in Sicily.
However, with that, there are some downfalls: for one, you won’t be able to enjoy the beaches, which are a big part of the island’s charm.
Plus, hiking Mount Etna in winter isn’t always possible, so you must also keep that in mind!
If you don’t enjoy crowded beaches and attractions, I would advise against visiting Taormina (and Sicily in general, to be honest), between late June and early September.
The island is a popular beach destination among Italians and foreigners, so it can get overwhelming in summer!
Late spring and early autumn would be ideal if you can time your vacation for one of the shoulder seasons.
The weather is pleasant, you can still swim in the crystalline waters, and yet you’ll escape the unbearable crowds and the summer heat!
How to Get to Taormina
The closest international airport to Taormina is the one in Catania, roughly one hour by car.
You might be relying on public transport during your time in Sicily. In that case, you can catch the bus from the airport to Catania center and then the train to Taormina, which only takes about 35 minutes.
If you’ve chosen to rent a car during your time in Sicily — which I strongly recommend — you can pick it up at the airport in Catania and drive to Taormina.
As for flying into Palermo, I don’t recommend it. It’s quite far and not well connected to Taormina.
It can take three to four hours to drive there and over five hours with public transport!
Another way to get to Sicily is from mainland Italy. In that case, you’ll cross the Strait of Messina by ferry, arriving at the port of Messina.
From Messina, it takes less than one hour to drive to Taormina and just over one hour by train.
How to Get Around Taormina
Taormina is pretty small, so you can easily walk almost everywhere!
However, you can also catch public buses to the train station, which is a bit far away on foot, or to the beach in Mazzeo, just north of Taormina.
Within the historical center, however, there is no need for public transport! Everywhere is within walking distance.
You can also catch the cable car from the center of Taormina to Mazzarò, the beach right below Taormina.
The cable car is more than just a convenient means of transportation; it’s also a great way to admire the spectacular coastal view!
If you’re traveling around other parts of Sicily as part of a larger itinerary, it makes sense to rent a car in Sicily (but before you do, read my guide here).
Driving in Italy isn’t as scary as it may seem, and it gives you a ton of freedom.
I always use Discover Cars when renting a car and recommend them highly.
This search engine not only looks at the typical rental car agencies (which can be $$$), it also looks at local, small Sicilian agencies that may offer better deals. Their pricing is straightforward (no bait-and-switches) and they offer free cancellation if you need it.
However, if you’re just staying in Taormina, there’s no need — you’ll barely use your car, trust me.
Unless you plan to visit a lot of Taormina area beaches, or move onwards to explore some of Catania’s beaches too, a rental car will be more trouble than it’s worth.
How Many Days to Spend in Taormina
The time you should spend in Taormina depends on the season you visit and whether you plan to visit other places in Sicily.
If you visit the Sicilian town in summer, you can easily spend one week discovering the many beaches around Taormina.
In the low season, a couple of days are enough, since beach time is less appealing.
If Taormina is just one stop in a longer itinerary around Sicily, you could even spend one day in Taormina seeing the highlights, and skipping Mt. Etna on the second day.
We’ve chosen two days in Taormina for this itinerary because it’s the ideal length of time to both explore the city and its beaches and hike on nearby Mount Etna.
This two-day itinerary will focus on exploring Taormina’s most important landmarks on the first day and hiking Mount Etna on the second.
Day 1 of Your Taormina Itinerary
Explore the stunning and historic Greek Theater.
Start your first day in Taormina with breakfast followed by a visit to the most significant landmark in Taormina, the Greek Theater or Teatro Antico di Taormina!
The stunning archaeological site combines history, art, and natural landscapes in a unique location that allows you to admire the coast and Mt. Etna in the distance!
Ancient Greek inscriptions allowed archaeologists to determine that the theater’s origins date back to when Sicily was a Greek colony.
However, Taormina’s theater also presents typical Ancient Roman features dating back to its enlargement in the 2nd century CE. At the time, the theater could host more than 10,000 spectators!
During the Greek period, the theater was used for classic spectacles. During the Roman Empire, like many other theaters such as the Colosseum in Rome, this was also used as an arena for the venationes (fights between gladiators and ferocious beasts).
The theater attracted many visitors from the 17th to the 19th centuries, especially as part of the so-called “Grand Tour” that European aristocrats were undertaking at the time.
Even personalities of the likes of Goethe visited the Taormina Theater!
In recent years, the theater served as a stage for awards ceremonies and political summits.
Today, Taormina’s Greek Theater is still an important cultural site. Every summer, from late June to early July, it hosts the Taormina Film Fest!
You can visit the theater daily from 9 AM until late afternoon or evening, depending on the season.
In the winter, the theater closes as early as 4 PM, while it stays open until 7.45 PM in summer.
You can get your tickets on-site or online. The latter is a better option if you visit during peak tourist season because it includes the option to skip-the-line.
If you are in Taormina on the first Sunday of the month, you can visit the theater for free!
If this is the case, you need to collect your free-entry ticket on-site; you can’t book ahead. You can also get an audio guide when you get there.
Plan to spend at least one hour wandering around and enjoying the spectacular views!
Stroll around Villa Comunale di Taormina.
After visiting the Greek Theater, spend some time wandering around the gorgeous Villa Comunale.
The public garden is only a five-minute walk from the theater and is free to visit!
Check out the beautiful villa, enjoy the shade of the many trees, and stop for a while to admire the panoramic coastal view.
Explore Taormina’s historic center and have a lunch break.
Spend the time before lunch exploring the historical center of Taormina.
One place you can’t miss is the charming Piazza IX Aprile with its clock tower and panoramic viewpoint!
You should also visit the beautiful churches of San Giuseppe and San Pancrazio.
Don’t miss the opportunity to stroll along Corso Umberto until Porta Catania, as it’s one of the most stunning stretches of Taormina.
Finally, be sure to save time to check out the beautiful cathedral, the Duomo di Taormina.
For lunch, have a delicious pizza at the charming Pizzeria Villa Zuccaro, or try a delightful seafood pasta or fish dish at Malvasia.
Both places are smack-dab in the center of Taormina, less than five minutes walking from the cathedral!
Explore the beaches of Mazzarò and Isola Bella.
After lunch, catch the cable car from Taormina to Mazzarò to enjoy the beach as well as the lovely Isola Bella.
The cable car departs from the center of Taormina, just a short walk from the restaurants.
A one-way ride is only €3, a small price for the stunning coastal view from above!
If you’d rather walk down and take your time admiring the view, take the stairway that starts right next to Belvedere di Via Pirandello.
This is a gorgeous viewpoint worth checking out for its spectacular panoramic views!
Once you reach Mazzarò, you have a few options.
You can stop at the beach just across the street from the cable car station, or start your walk to Isola Bella Beach, which faces the tiny islet of Isola Bella.
Spend a few hours sunbathing or swimming at either of these destinations.
If the tide is low, you can walk on the narrow path to Isola Bella and explore the stunning nature preserve!
Hike to the Taormina Castle and Chiesa Madonna della Rocca.
Catch the cable car back to Taormina’s historic center in the late afternoon.
Have an afternoon pick-me-up at Bam Bar to enjoy a delicious granita and a traditional brioche before your next activity, which will require extra energy!
From the center of Taormina, just two minutes from Piazza IX Aprile, start climbing the stairs that lead to the hilltop castle.
I suggest you start climbing roughly one hour before sunset, so you can enjoy the beautiful splash of sunset colors from above the town!
Before reaching the castle, you’ll come across a historic chapel built into the side of the mountain, called the Chiesa Madonna della Rocca.
Don’t skip visiting this charming little church before continuing your climb to the castle!
Unfortunately, the castle has been closed for many years, despite various attempts to open it to the public.
Regardless of whether you’ll find the castle open, the view from above is spectacular.
If you can’t visit the castle, stop at the viewpoint next to the church to admire the view and watch the sunset.
Have dinner and enjoy Taormina by night.
After sunset, you can stay in the area for dinner and enjoy delicious Sicilian dishes with a spectacular view from the terrace of Ristorante Pizzeria Al Saraceno.
The restaurant is right next to Chiesa Madonna della Rocca, so you won’t even have to walk!
Alternatively, you can descend back to the center of Taormina for a satisfying dinner at Trattoria Da Nino.
The fish dishes and pasta are delicious here, and the atmosphere is laid-back yet lively.
After dinner, enjoy a stroll around Taormina and admire the beautiful views by night.
For great night-time views, I suggest you walk to Belvedere di Via Pirandello or enjoy the view from Piazza IX Aprile.
Day 2 of Your Taormina Itinerary
Explore Mount Etna — one of three ways!
On your second day in Taormina, take a day trip to Mount Etna.
The volcano is only an hour’s drive from the coastal town, so many tours depart from here as it’s the most convenient starting point!
At over 3,300 meters above sea level (roughly 10,900 feet), Etna is the highest active volcano in Europe!
Etna has erupted frequently, even in recent years, the latest eruption lasting from late 2022 to the beginning of 2023.
However, there is no reason to worry as long as you do the hike with expert guides, who will only do the hike if it’s safe.
This is one of the main tourist attractions on the island, so you shouldn’t miss it!
Since Etna is best experienced with a guide, there are several ways to explore it on a tour, each with a unique focus.
Whether you just want to hike or prefer combining this activity with food or wine tasting, you’ll find the perfect tour for you.
Here are three great guided tour options I’d recommend.
This tour mainly focuses on the hiking experience, but it also includes a light lunch.
You’ll depart at 8:30 AM from Taormina to the foothills of the Etna, where you can hike for around one hour and a half with your expert guide.
You’ll reach an altitude of roughly 2,000 meters above sea level (6,500 feet), where you get to see extinct craters and lava fields and learn about the geology and history of the volcano.
At the end of the hike, you’ll even explore an ancient lava cave!
Mount Etna volcanic landscape with hidden cave on side crater with ash, stones and green patches of scrub, guided hiking tour on Etna, Sicily, Italy
Afterwards, you’ll have a light lunch at a local café, where you can sample almond wine, a traditional Sicilian wine.
Finally, they’ll transfer you back to Taormina, getting back in the afternoon.
This tour includes the transfer, necessary equipment, insurance, light lunch, and an expert guide.
You can also rent hiking boots, walking sticks, and snow shoes if you visit in winter.
This tour combines both hiking on Etna and traditional Sicilian flavors.
Your first stop will be in the small town of Zafferana, better known for its honey production.
Here, you’ll sample local honey, olive oil, and wine while visiting an organic farm.
Next, you’ll explore a lava cave and learn about the formation of lava flows.
From the cave, you’ll head to the Sapienza Refuge, where you can see old craters and traces from recent eruptions.
A short trek along a path will allow you to take in the spectacular views before returning to Taormina.
You can also choose the alternative option of taking the cable car and the jeep bus to reach 3,000 meters of altitude and enjoy the stunning landscape. However, this option has an additional cost.
Note that while this tour includes the guide, transfer, a light food tasting, and necessary gear for the lava cave, it does not include a full lunch.
You can either bring lunch or buy something at the refuge.
Try this half-day tour for a memorable food and wine tasting on Mount Etna, with no hiking involved!
After driving through picturesque landscapes and learning about the wine production in the volcanic area of Mount Etna, you’ll reach your first stop for the day, a family-run winery welcoming you with a glass of sparkling rosé.
You’ll visit the wine cellars and enjoy a wine tasting accompanied by cold appetizers such as cheese, cold cuts, and local vegetables.
Since you’re on a volcano, the tasting will take place in an impressive lava stone amphitheater!
For your next stop, you’ll visit a farmhouse and sample more food and wine on a terrace while admiring the vineyards.
The tasting includes ricotta cheese with marmalade and pasta made with local ingredients.
End your tour with a taste of homemade limoncello before driving back to Taormina.
The tour includes everything from the transfer and guide to the food and wine tasting. You are welcome to leave a tip at the end of the tour!
Explore more of Taormina and have dinner.
If you’re not too tired after the hike, you can spend the rest of the afternoon exploring more of Taormina, either returning to your favorite spots or discovering new viewing points and landmarks.
Some options include checking out whatever exhibition is on at the Palazzo Corvaja, or maybe you’ll want to catch a show at theOpera House.
Finally, have one last delicious dinner in Taormina!
Discover more Sicilian dishes on the lovely terrace of CutìLuDissi, or treat yourself to a fancy dinner in the sophisticated Ristorante Baronessa.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
Exploring Portugal on a road trip is one of the best ways to discover the country and reach remote places you wouldn’t otherwise visit.
Despite its small size, Portugal overdelivers everywhere: stunning coastal and mountainous landscapes, cities out of a storybook, and picturesque villages tucked away and seemingly untouched by time.
Since I lived in in Portugal for over two years, that gave me the chance to to explore the majority of the country.
I really enjoyed taking weekend trips from the big cities like Lisbon (where I lived) and Porto to explore pristine Algarve beach towns and tiny Central Portugal villages that few tourists get to see unless they have as much time as I did there to explore.
Since I lived in Lisbon, owning a car didn’t make sense (can you imagine parking in that city, on those hills? No thanks!) — so I frequently rented cars there (which is how this guide to renting a car in Portugal was born!).
So that’s why I’m here to share what I’ve learned with you!
This guide will cover everything you need to know before renting a car in Portugal, from important driving rules to car rental tips.
Plus, as a bonus insider tip, I’ll share some of the places you really shouldn’t miss on a road trip around Portugal that most people keep secret!
This post was written by Roxana, a Romanian-born travel writer who has also lived in Italy, Portugal, and Germany. She's sharing her knowledge of road tripping Portugal with us in this post. This post was last updated by Allison, the blog's founder and editor, in January 2024 to reflect the most up-to-date knowledge that also reflects her personal experience renting a car in Portugal's Azores Islands.
Should You Rent a Car in Portugal?
Well, it depends on your overall Portugal travel plans and what places you want to visit.
Portugal’s main cities are well connected by public transport, so if your goal is to visit Lisbon, Porto, and a few other major cities, you can get around easily by bus or train — no rental car needed.
However, the historical villages of Central Portugal, the beaches on Alentejo’s coast, and even many places in the Algarve are easier to explore if you have a car.
Certain small villages are impossible to reach with public transport, despite being absolutely worth exploring.
Bottom line: if you want to get off the beaten track and discover authentic villages and spectacular natural landscapes in Portugal, you absolutely should rent a car.
Where to Rent a Car in Portugal
You can rent a car in most big cities in Portugal, such as Lisbon, Porto, and several towns in the Algarve.
Airport rentals can be slightly cheaper, but overall, there isn’t much difference from city center rental agencies.
The three international airports are located in Lisbon, Porto, and Faro, and each are good hubs for renting a car when you start your Portugal trip.
Lisbon is by far the city with the most options for inbound flights and the most affordable prices in general for both flights and car rentals.
If you have multiple options, the easiest and most central location is to fly to Lisbon and rent your car there.
Ultimately, though, unless you want to rent a car last minute in summer, you won’t have any trouble finding rentals near any of the most important airports in Portugal.
Wherever you choose to rent your car, the best option is to book in advance.
Don’t wait to arrive at your destination and go straight to a car rental agency. Chances are, you’ll pay much more if you wait to the last minute!
Who to Rent with in Portugal
When looking for a rental car in Portugal, I always use Discover Cars to search for the best deal for multiple reasons.
It’s easy to search, includes 500+ agencies (including smaller local ones, not just the pricey international ones), and is very clear about what the costs are, so there are no hidden fees or surprises.
You can also look at each individual’s agencies ratings, so you can avoid any company that has less-than-stellar reviews.
Plus, their cancellation policy is generous, so you can book in advance to lock in a good rate, and cancel or adjust if you end up needing to.
Tip: Make sure you book your rental in Portugal with full coverage insurance for peace of mind — it starts at only $7 per day, cheaper than you’d get at a rental agency!
This search engine not only looks at the typical rental car agencies (which can be $$$), it also looks at local, small Portuguese rental agencies that may offer better deals. Their pricing is straightforward (no bait-and-switches) and they offer free cancellation if you need it.
Renting a car in Portugal is a pretty simple process. If you have the necessary documentation, you won’t encounter any difficulties.
Nevertheless, we want to make sure you have as easy a time as possible, so here are the most important things you need to be aware of.
Prepare the necessary documents.
This might seem obvious, but make sure you have all the necessary documents for renting a car in Portugal before your trip.
The documents everyone needs to rent a car are a passport and a driving license.
Additionally, you’ll need a debit or credit card. While most rental companies require a credit card, you may find a few local ones accepting debit cards, but it’s best to check ahead and confirm which you’ll need.
Lastly, check whether you need an international driving permit, abbreviated as IDP.
Recently, Portugal has passed a law allowing citizens of multiple countries to drive just with their country’s driving permit.
These include the US, the United Kingdom, and most European countries. However, some travelers may still require an IDP.
Buy car insurance.
All car rentals include the basic CDW (Collision Damage Waiver) policy. However, this often comes with a high deductible.
You can purchase additional insurance to cover the car’s excess, theft protection, damage to mirrors, windows, and wheels, and any charges in case of breakdown or key loss.
The full protection is optional, but you should really consider buying it.
It’s so much easier to pay a little extra for peace of mind rather than risk paying the high deductible or cover for any charge, such as towing or key replacement.
Choose the right car type.
The first thing you have to check when renting a car in Portugal is the transmission type.
Manual transmission cars are the most popular and affordable option available.
If you’re not used to driving with a manual transmission, you may want to pay extra for the automatic one to make your life easier.
If you plan to spend any time driving within the cities, you’ll likely wind up driving uphill and through narrow streets quite often.
Having a car with automatic transmission can save you the stress of driving in hilly places like Lisbon and Porto.
Secondly, pick the right car size. Very often, a small car is a better option, which might be a bit of a surprise for American readers!
As long as you’ve got enough space for all the passengers and your luggage, you don’t need a big car.
A smaller car will make driving in Portuguese towns and finding parking so much easier!
Choose where to pick up and drop off your car.
When renting a car in Portugal, the cheapest price will always be when you drop it off as the same place as where you picked it up…. otherwise, you’ll pay a (sometimes hefty) one-way rental fee.
Even after factoring in for the extra gas and tolls to drive back to the initial location, one-way rentals are usually a pretty bad deal.
However, for the most time-crunched of travelers, the convenience may outweigh the cost.
Luckily, since Portugal is such a small country, you can easily plan a road trip that starts where it ends.
Picking up your car in Lisbon is the most convenient idea to avoid this hassle.
Lisbon is very centrally located — 3 hours to the Algarve, 3 hours to Porto — so it’s not too much of a time suck to return your rental car in Lisbon in order to avoid this one-way charge.
The typical advice is to rent a car as soon as you get to the airport. After all, airports have the best deals right?
Well, yes and no. If you plan to spend some time in the city you’re flying into before starting your road trip — whether that’s Lisbon, Porto, or Faro — it’s actually probably a better idea to rent your car in the city center (or return to the airport to pick up your rental car).
Driving in Lisbon and Porto can get complicated quickly. With many uphill roads and narrow streets, driving is no fun.
Besides, both cities have very good public transport and cheap ride-hailing apps like Uber and Bolt, so you won’t really need the car until you get outside the city proper.
Always carry some cash
Whether you use it for tolls, parking, or gas, it’s always a good idea to have some cash on you.
While you can pay by card at most gas stations, you may occasionally find some that only accept Portuguese cards or have the card payment out of service.
The last thing you want is to find yourself stranded between destinations with no way to refuel your rental!
Use proper navigation tools.
Google Maps and other navigation apps are usually accurate for directions around Portugal…
But problems can arise if the route takes you through an area with no service and then it tries to reroute you but has no data available.
Worse, sometimes the maps are a bit out of date.
One way to avoid getting lost driving in Portugal is to download an offline map that you can use even without service.
Another way is to have a backup paper map that you can consult in emergencies like running out of phone battery.
Lastly, always pay attention to road signs. Especially in cities, roads may change due to ongoing construction or other reasons.
Always follow traffic signs instead of relying on your GPS directions.
Rules & Tips for Driving in Portugal
Driving in Portugal is similar to most continental European countries — driving on the right side of the road, adhering to posted speed limits etc.
Even if you don’t read Portuguese, traffic signs are pretty straightforward, and the roads are mostly in good condition.
Generally, driving in Portugal’s cities and navigating tiny streets of its small towns can get a little more complicated compared to the highways.
That said, keep your wits about you and pay attention to all the street signs!
Still, there are a few important rules and tips to know when renting a car in Portugal.
If you keep these in mind, you’re practically guaranteed to have a smooth Portugal driving experience.
Parking
Finding free parking in Portugal isn’t always easy.
Most parking spots are metered, so always check and pay for parking to avoid a fine.
You may want to know a few Portuguese words, such as the days of the week, to help you with street signs (e.g., the above says that parking only needs to be paid between Monday and Friday, from 9 AM to 7 PM).
If you do get a fine, the car will be clamped (booted), and you must call a number and pay the fine before it gets towed.
To avoid these headaches and complications, always pay for parking… no one wants to come back from lunch and find their car booted, just as you’re ready to go to your next destination.
Also, beware of no parking signs!
If parking is not allowed, you’ll see a sign with a round white or blue sign with a red line across.
Avoid parking there, or you’ll face the same penalty as above.
Road Tolls
Unlike some countries where most highways are free, be aware that you have to pay tolls to drive on highways in Portugal… and the payment process is not always so straightforward.
Most toll booths work like in every other country. You get a ticket when you enter the highway, and pay the toll when you exit.
However, Portugal has a system called Via Verde.
You shouldn’t pass through booths dedicated to Via Verde unless you have the system in your car.
This transponder allows you to pass through these dedicated lanes faster.
If you pass through the Via Verde lane without a transponder, you’ll end up paying the fee for the length of the entire highway (even if you didn’t drive that far yourself)
How to avoid this? Well, simply have a Via Verde transponder in your car.
When you rent the car, the rental agency will probably ask if you want to pay to include the transponder in your rental. If they don’t, you can inquire yourself.
While most rental agencies will charge a small extra fee to rent you this device for your car, it’s worth it: it’ll make everything easier.
Simply connect your credit or debit card to the Via Verde system online, and all tolls will be charged automatically to your card.
Plus, if you get charged fines for not using the toll system properly, you might get slammed double with fines by the rental agency for ‘processing’ the fee.
Speed Limits
Another aspect of driving in Portugal is adhering to the speed limits.
Americans, take note: everything — from the posted limits to the car’s speedometer — is measured in kilometers, not miles!
If you don’t see a posted sign, adhere to the following general rule of thumb: below 50 km/hr in urban areas, below 90 km/hr on most public roads, and below 120 km/hr on highways.
Although these are the basic rules, road signs may indicate something different, and that takes precedence over everything.
While speed cameras are almost nonexistent in Portugal, always respect speed limits for your safety and that of other drivers.
Drinking and Driving
Last but certainly not least, you need to keep in mind of the alcohol limit for driving in Portugal: 0.5 grams per liter (which is lower than the US limit, 0.8).
That’s about one glass or wine or one beer, but it depends on a complex equation that is hard to give one easy answer to.
Food helps soften the blow of alcohol; typically having one drink with your meal will allow you to stay below this limit.
However, the best option is to avoid alcohol altogether.
Having food with your drink and waiting for some time before driving can also help you stay below the limit.
If you want to do some wine tasting, it’s a good idea to do so on a tour, such as one of these Douro Valley wine tours from Porto, rather than risk drinking and driving!
Best Time for a Road Trip in Portugal
The best times to take a road trip around Portugal are spring and autumn.
The shoulder seasons allow you to avoid the crowds and traffic of the summer months and the potential rain of the winter months… especially in Northern Portugal, which is notoriously rainy.
In spring, late March (March in Lisbon is amazing!) to the beginning of May is the best time, excluding Easter.
In autumn, your best bet is from late September to the end of October.
After that, the chances of rain increase substantially and make driving more of a challenge.
Winter isn’t necessarily a bad time to go on a road trip in Portugal. The weather tends to be pleasant nearly everywhere south of Lisbon, but you may get the occasional cold and rainy days.
In the north, it tends to rain a lot, so winter may not be the best time to drive to Coimbra, Porto, the Douro Valley, and the surroundings. (Did you know Porto has more rainy days than London?)
Places You Must Visit in Portugal When Renting a Car
Most of Portugal has pretty good public transportation, but there are quite a few remote places in Portugal that you can only reach by car.
Here are some out-of-the-way places that are worth the detour while you drive through Portugal.
Aldeias de Xisto
These small schist villages are nestled within the remote hills of Central Portugal.
Most villages are in the Serra da Lousã and Serra do Açor, two forested, mountainous areas not far from Coimbra.
Some of the prettiest villages are Talasnal, Fajão, and Chiqueiro.
Aldeias Historicas
The Historic Villages of Portugal is a program aimed at restoring and promoting ancient villages across Portugal.
Since the program started in 1991, 12 villages were classified as historical villages.
Piódão, Monsanto, Castelo Rodrigo, and Belmonte are among the most charming.
Alentejo Beaches
Another area worth exploring by car is the coast of the Alentejo region, between the Algarve and Lisbon.
This area is not easy to reach by public transport, so if you rent a car in Portugal, you’ll get the chance to discover some wild beaches!
Praia da Amália, Praia de Odeceixe, Praia da Amoreira, Praia da Bordeira, and Praia do Castelejo are just a few spectacular beaches you can explore in Alentejo.
Peneda-Gerês National Park
Located in Northern Portugal, bordering the Spanish region of Galicia, this national park is worth the side trip.
It’s just one hour from Porto, but its stunning lush forests, thundering waterfalls, and wild rivers feel like they’re much further away.
It’s a great place to pair with visiting the Douro Valley and its charming small towns like Peso da Régua.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
Positano is quite possibly the most famous town on the iconic Amalfi Coast, located just to the south of Naples.
The dramatic coastline the region is celebrated for is dotted with picturesque little villages made of colorful houses stacked on top of each other on tall cliffs.
No other Amalfi Coast town is more emblematic of the region than Positano, with its iconic beach and serpentine streets offering glimpses of the coastline.
⌛Planning your trip to Positano at the last minute?
Here are my quick picks on what to do & where to stay!
I traveled throughout the Amalfi Coast twice while living in Italy, in early autumn and in winter, and Positano was positively delightful on both occasions.
I recommend spending a full two days in Positano to get the full experience.
You’ll have time to wander around the narrow alleys, relax on the beach, try the delicious cuisine at gorgeous restaurants overlooking the sea, and go for a short hike for even more sweeping coastal views.
This Positano itinerary will cover the places and activities you shouldn’t miss on a short trip to this picturesque Amalfi coast town.
How to Get to Positano
By Rental Car
Renting a car in Italy is the easiest way to get to Positano, especially if you’re flying into the Naples Airport.
Generally, renting a car in Naples is fairly inexpensive, and it can be very convenient for getting around the Amalfi Coast area, such as visiting its beaches.
That said, it can also present some challenges, like the difficulty of parking in Positano and dealing with traffic along the coastal road.
That said, I think the benefits of renting a car for Positano outweigh the drawbacks.
I recommend using Discover Cars to compare prices as they search 500+ rental agencies (including small, local Italian companies) to get you the best deal, finding companies many other search engines miss.
If you won’t be renting a car for your Amalfi coast itinerary, you can reach Positano by bus from Sorrento or Salerno.
In Sorrento, Bus Number 5070 departs from in front of the Circumvesuviana station, the train line connecting the city to Naples. The ride only takes about 45 minutes.
If you’ll be coming to Positano from Salerno, the journey is a bit longer. You have to take bus 5120 to Amalfi (approximately 75 minutes) before catching the same bus 5070 to Positano, so your total travel time will be almost two hours.
If you prefer not to deal with buses or trains, you can skip all that with an airport transfer from Welcome Pickups, where you pre-book an airport taxi and the driver will greet you and help with your luggage.
By Boat
Of course, if you prefer the scenic and more adventurous route, since Positano is a coastal town, there’s always the nautical option: from Naples, Salerno, and Sorrento, you can catch a boat to Positano (or other Amalfi towns).
While the coastal journey offers gorgeous views, it can be a bit of a challenge for those suffering from motion sickness.
The entire coast is one big curve after the other, so be prepared, and maybe choose the shorter option.
There are also ferries that run directly from Capri to Positano, so you can spend a day in Capri before your Positano itinerary.
Positano Itinerary: Day 1
Explore Positano by foot.
What better way to start your first day in Positano than with a coffee by the beach? At Positano Paradise Lounge Bar, you can find exactly that.
After enjoying the delicious coffee and beautiful scenery, it’s time to explore the town.
The best thing to do in Positano is also the simplest: just walk around and find gorgeous points to enjoy scenic views overlooking the coast.
You can find some of the best views of Positano from Via Cristoforo Colombo, nearly any point along Viale Pasitea, and the main road Amalfi Drive.
For precise directions, just search Google Maps for Fotopoint Positano for a beautiful viewpoint on Amalfi Drive.
Positano is also filled with the most charming shops selling all kinds of souvenirs, from local food to clothing and, most notably, gorgeous ceramics.
You simply can’t go to Positano and not take the chance to admire the ceramics.
While the core of ceramics production on the Amalfi Coast is in Vietri sul Mare, you’ll find shops in every village along the coast.
Some of Positano’s most renowned ceramics shops are Ceramica Assunta, Emporio della Ceramica, and The Art of Ceramics.
Whether you just want to admire the beautiful vases and crockery or buy some souvenirs to take home, it’s worth checking out some (or, if you’re ambitious, all!) of these shops.
Keen-eyed observers may notice how nearly all objects are decorated with lemons.
That’s not by coincidence, as the lemon is a prominent local symbol, given their presence all over the coast.
Amalfi Coast lemons are of a specific variety called Sfusato d’Amalfi, known for their sweet taste, unlike other lemon varieties.
While shopping around Positano, don’t forget to buy some limoncello and lemon candy to take home!
The bright, fresh citrus flavor is sure to bring back happy memories of this perfect Positano vacation.
Visit the Church of Santa Maria Assunta.
In the lower part of Positano, visit the Church of Santa Maria Assunta.
This is the most important church in town, and it was once part of the Benedictine monastery of St. Mary.
The church is best known for its iconic ceramic dome and for housing a Byzantine icon of the Holy Virgin.
According to local legend, the icon arrived in Positano through nothing short of a miracle.
The Byzantine icon was on a ship of Benedictine monks sailing by Positano. The ship suddenly came to a stop offshore from Positano, and the sailors could not keep sailing.
Supposedly, they heard a voice saying “Posa Posa,” which translates to “put me down,” and is the inspiration for the name of Positano.
The ship’s captain decided to listen to the voice and head for shore, intending to leave the icon in town. As the story goes, it was at that exact moment that the ship began sailing again.
Subsequently, the icon was given as a gift to the inhabitants of Positano, who decided to build a church in honor of the Virgin.
As you see it nowadays, this church is the product of a restoration in the late 18th century, which used to be a 10th-century monastery.
Few relics of this previous life of the church remain, but above the bell tower door, you can see a bas-relief that depicts a creature with a dragon-like form.
Discover Roman ruins at MAR Museo Archeologico Romano.
Next to the church, you can visit the Roman Archaeological Museum, or “MAR”.
Drop in to join a guided tour with an archaeologist who will tell you everything there is to know about the Roman Villa dating back to the 1st century BCE that lies just below the church.
The Roman Villa d’Ozio was covered by the ash and pumice of the Vesuvius eruption of 79 AD.
In fact, the fact that the famous eruption that destroyed Pompeii reached the Amalfi Coast is a relatively recent discovery!
The first excavation to bring the ancient Roman villa to light took place between 2004 and 2006.
A second campaign from 2015 to 2016 uncovered additional areas but, for the most part, the luxurious villa remains buried.
Although the eruption didn’t cause the same level of damage, pyroclastic materials did reach the coast and preserved the villa under two meters of what turned into a type of rock known as “tuff”.
In the guided tour, you’ll get the chance to admire the incredibly well-preserved mural paintings of the 4th Pompeian style in vivid colors.
In addition to the murals, you can also examine several objects uncovered in the excavations.
Have a lunch break.
Positano offers numerous opportunities to enjoy lunch with a gorgeous view.
However, be prepared for these restaurants to be quite expensive by Italian standards. After all, you are also paying for the view.
If you want a nice meal at a decent price, try the delightful fresh pasta and pizza at Saraceno d’Oro. For delicious seafood, head to Il Grottino Azzurro.
If you just want to have a quick bite and save your time for more sightseeing, try the flavorful sandwiches at Simone’s Sandwiches, though note that this place is usually just open seasonally, from late spring to early fall.
The next activity will be a bit season and weather dependent — you can either go for a stunning hike or spend some time relaxing at the beach.
Option One: Go hiking at Le Tese di Positano
If you want to go hiking, Le Tese di Positano is a short and easy trail.
The path starts in Via Corvo, northeast of Positano, and ends at Belvedere Santa Maria Del Castello.
At first, you’ll have to climb several steps, then continue along a path until you reach the scenic overlook point with a stunning view.
While it may be hard to believe today, this narrow and rough trail used to be the only road connecting Positano to the villages of the Lattari Mountains.
The hike up takes at least an hour, but it can take longer if you stop frequently for breaks.
Be sure to bring enough water and a few snacks, and avoid it if it’s too hot.
At the end of the trail, all of your hard efforts will be rewarded when you reach the scenic overlook at Santa Maria del Castello and admire in the breathtaking view of the dramatic coastline.
From this viewpoint, descend back to Positano and treat yourself to a refreshing granita (similar to a lemon sorbet) or gelato.
Try the granita inside a lemon at Collina Positano Bakery for a delightfully citrusy twist on the classic dessert.
Relax at the beach.
If going on a hike sounds like a bit more work than you’d like on a relaxing vacation, you can spend a few hours just kicking back at the beach.
You’ll have your choice between the main beach, Spiaggia di Positano Marina Grande, or walking for about ten minutes to check out Fornillo Beach.
The main beach tends to be more crowded, especially in the peak summer months.
Although Fornillo Beach may not have the same picturesque background, it’s a delightful little beach.
As a bonus, the road connecting Fornillo to Spiaggia Grande is also very picturesque!
Watch the sunset from Nocelle.
If you have time left and are up for a challenge, walk to Nocelle to watch the sunset.
You’ll need to climb a long stairway starting on Amalfi Drive just outside Positano, near Arienzo Beach.
I won’t lie to you, the climb is challenging, but once again, the view from the top is worth it.
When you reach Nocelle, you can stop at Lemon Point for a refreshing lemonade to drink while taking in the view.
Remember, what comes up must go down… and those same steps will be awaiting you on the return.
If you do a sunset hike, be sure to bring a headlamp for the walk down — you don’t want to stumble!
You can also time this for a late afternoon hike if you don’t want to walk back down in the dark.
Also, be aware that while the walk up is about 30 minutes, the walk back will take around an hour, since you also have to backtrack to Positano town itself.
Have dinner in Positano.
Back in Positano, it’s time for dinner at one of the many restaurants with terraces overlooking the sea.
Luna is a charming option if you are looking for a more refined location.
Alternatively, head to the historic Da Vincenzo Positano 1958.
Although it doesn’t have a view, it serves some of the best pasta dishes in town. This restaurant is open only from April to early November, however.
Positano Itinerary: Day 2
Go on a day cruise of the Amalfi Coast.
One of the best ways to experience the Amalfi Coast is on a cruise. You’ll find many day cruise options from Positano, online and on-site.
If you travel in summer or even late spring, I recommend booking online in advance to secure your spot.
ThisSmall-Group Amalfi Coast Day Cruise is one of the best options from Positano. The small group size allows you to really enjoy the trip and get a more personal experience.
An expert skipper will guide you along the coast, passing by stunning sea caves and charming villages. The cruise sets sail in the morning from the main beach of Positano, Spiaggia Grande.
You’ll be passing by the picturesque village of Praiano and the stunning Furore fjord before arriving in Conca dei Marini.
You can join an optional tour of the Emerald Grotto in Conca dei Marini, but there is an extra charge to do so, so factor that in.
A fisherman discovered the sea cave by accident in 1932, and it soon became a popular attraction.
Sun rays enter the cave through an opening creating beautiful reflections on the surface of the crystalline waters.
After Conca dei Marini, you’ll reach Amalfi, the town that gives the name to the coastline.
Here, you get a few hours to explore on your own and have lunch. You can stay in Amalfi or catch a bus to Ravello.
If you explore Amalfi…
Start by visiting the beautiful 10th-century Amalfi Cathedral with its ornate Moorish façade.
You can enter the cathedral for free during mass.
However, for a small €3 fee, you can visit the cathedral, the crypt, and the gorgeous 12th-century Moorish cloister, Chiostro del Paradiso.
You can stop for lunch at one of the many restaurants near the cathedral. Try delicious seafood pasta at Ristorante La Piazzetta or Taverna degli Apostoli.
Spend the rest of the time exploring Amalfi’s lovely alleys and climbing the narrow stairways for gorgeous panoramic views.
The street leading to the hilltop Amalfi Cemetery has some of the best coastal views, especially from the Belvedere Cimitero Monumentale.
If you explore Ravello…
If you’d rather skip Amalfi and visit Ravello instead, you can catch a bus right by the Amalfi port that will take you to the hilltop village in less than half an hour.
Ravello is best known for its stunning gardens offering sweeping coastline views.
Visit Villa Cimbrone Gardens to experience the dramatic views from the iconic Terrazza dell’Infinito.
Another garden worth visiting is Villa Rufolo, boasting delightful, landscaped gardens and a beautiful Moorish palace.
If you want to stay for lunch in Ravello, try Osteria Ravello or Ristorante Vittoria, both offering tasty local dishes paired with beautiful views.
After the Amalfi or Ravello visit, your guide may lead you to Maiori and another beautiful sea cave where you can go for a swim.
The last part of the tour that includes Maiori and the nearby sea cave is not always guaraneed, as it depends on how much time you have left.
Either way, you’ll be back in Positano by the late afternoon, with enough time for another sweet sunset and fantastic meal.
Taking a guided tour with a boat cruise is a great way to experience the Amalfi coast and some of its villages on a 2 day Positano, where you don’t have much time.
Strictly limited to 12 people per boat, this 7-hour boat cruise and Amalfi Coast tour is an excellent way to see as much of the coast as possible without the hassle of working out transportation.
It’s also nice because it’s customizable: you can choose between independently exploring either Amalfi or Ravello, so you won’t feel like a cattle being herded from site to site like you might on other tours.
Plus, the coastal views of Positano, Amalfi, the fjord of Furore, and more are unbeatable from the water!
The Relais Il Sogno de Positano provides a relatively cheaper option for accommodation in Positano, although the term “budget” can be subjective in this town!
You can indulge in spacious and colorful rooms that offer scenic views of the sea, although the location is a bit further away from the main town area.
Nonetheless, considering the considerable difference in pricing with other options in Positano, the distance is a reasonable trade-off, especially with the picturesque environment to walk around in.
Looking for a sweet spot to stay in Positano without breaking the bank? Look no further than Hotel Conca d’Oro!
This mid-range gem is located right in the heart of town and features chic minimalist rooms with a few elegant Amalfi touches.
Most of the rooms feature stunning views of the sea, though if you don’t have your own balcony, the terrace is the perfect spot to catch a sunset. You’ll be living the high life without spending all your dough!
Hotel Villa Franca is the real deal when it comes to luxury on the Amalfi Coast. But buckle up, because the price tag might make you shed a tear or two.
That being said, you’re in for a treat with two fine dining restaurants and a jaw-dropping rooftop pool with views that will leave you speechless. There’s also swanky O’Spa Wellness Center that features a Turkish-style hammam.
Oh, and let’s not forget about the stunningly designed rooms that offer mind-blowing views of the sea!
Having explored Positano in both February and October, I can safely say that any time of year is great to discover the Amalfi coast.
In wintertime, you’ll likely find Positano nearly empty, which I loved.
In summer, on the other hand, expect the town to be packed with travelers on vacation.
Positano attracts a mixed crowd of visitors, from day trippers to influencers and celebrities stopping by on their yacht trips.
If you want to find a spot to settle in on the beach, you’ll have to get there early.
Summer travel to Positano isn’t all bad, though!
The town is livelier in summer, and you’ll find more restaurants and bars open since some of them close for the season during winter.
If you want to strike a balance between gorgeous weather and smaller crowds, try to schedule your trip around April or October.
If you get lucky with the weather, you may even get some beach time!
FAQ About Visiting Positano
How long should I stay in Positano?
While this itinerary is for 2 days in Positano, that’s my opinion of what the proper bare minimum for a visit is.
It takes about a day of dedicated exploring to see the most of the town of Positano, and then you’ll also want to factor in some beach time.
But Positano also makes an excellent base for further Amalfi Coast explorations.
If you stay for more like 3 to 5 days, you’ll have enough time to also visit other places on or near the Amalfi coast, like the charming islands of Capri, Procida, or Ischia, as well as other Amalfi towns like Ravello.
For more relaxed pace, allow yourself some extra time for leisurely beach days on both Positano’s beach and other Amalfi beaches in the area.
Is Positano expensive?
In a word? Yes, Positano is a lot more expensive than other places in Italy. For truly budget-friendly places, look for
Plus, Positano in particular is currently extra popular amongst influencers and jet-setters, making already-high prices soar higher.
Prices depend on the season, with costs especially high in July and August in particular.
As an average rule of thumb, mid-range hotels go for about 150-250 Euro per night and luxury hotels start around 350 Euro per night and go up from there.
Some budget accommodations can be available for under 100 Euro per night, but they’re few and far between and tend to sell out quickly.
In terms of food, prices here are definitely higher than other places in Italy. You can get small grab-and-go style meals for about 15 Euro per person, but a sit-down meal with wine, appetizers, and an entree will cost about 50-100 Euro per person… which is quite high for Italy!
Luckily, there’s a range of activities you can do depending on your budget, including lots of free hikes or just taking the SITA bus (10 Euro for a day pass) to other Amalfi Coast towns to explore on foot.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
While all of the Douro Valley is picturesque and stunning, special recognition goes to the lovely town of Peso da Régua in the Alto Douro (‘high Douro’).
This lovely winemaking town is a key stop on any Douro Valley visit, whether you’re taking an extended road trip around the region or just popping over for a quick day trip from Porto.
I made a side trip to visit the charming town of Peso da Régua on one of my many trips to Porto and Northern Portugal, and I absolutely loved it!
Despite its small size, there’s an outsized amount of things to do: its home to the main museum in the region, as well as several incredible quintas (wineries) and local tascas, or Portuguese restaurants.
In this short guide, I’ll share my favorite things to do in Peso da Régua — but before getting into the main sights and activities, let me give you a few tips!
Tips for Visiting Peso da Régua
First of all, you’ll need to consider what time of year you’ll be visiting.
Summer is the most popular season to visit… but it’s not without its drawbacks that are key to consider.
Of course, the main advantage is that you can enjoy the beautiful weather and try lots of activities… but it comes with a price, literally, as well with more crowds.
Alternately, if you visit in the winter or early spring, the crowds will be smaller… but some key activities may not be running, like taking the historical train or even joining a Douro cruise.
On top of that, it can be rainy and cold, which can really put a damper (pardon the pun) on your enjoyment — after all, Porto is rainier than London, yes really!
With all of that in mind, the best time to visit is likely the late spring and early fall.
You can include Peso da Régua in yourDouro Valley road trip itinerary. This is a great spot to spend a night and enjoy the surroundings.
Or you can visit the town on a day trip from Porto. Several trains connect Porto to Peso da Régua all year round so if you’ve decided against renting a car in Portugal, this is a great option.
One day in Peso da Régua should be sufficient to explore the town, unless you plan on joining a full-day cruise or guided tour to the wineries.
In that case, I’d recommend spending at least a day and a half in order to properly do the town justice — you can even spend the night in a nearby Douro winery hotel if you want to have a unique stay!
Things to Do in Peso da Régua
While on the surface, Peso da Régua doesn’t have a lot of attractions, there’s more to do than first meets the eye, from museums to wine tastings and river cruises.
You can easily fill your schedule for a full day or even two if you opt for a full-day cruise.
Keep reading to learn the must-see sights and best activities in Peso da Régua!
Visit Museu do Douro.
Photo Credit: Michael Gaylard from Horsham, UK, CC BY 2.0, Wikimedia Commons
Hands down, visiting the Museu do Douro should absolutely be your top priority when traveling to Peso da Regua.
If you’re at all curious about the history and development of the Douro wine region and production of DOC Port wine, this is the place to learn!
The museum provides a comprehensive (and fascinating!) overview of all aspects of Port wine production — all without being overwhelming or too technical, which is great if you’re a beginner to wine lingo.
You can read about the region’s history and production processes, discover the main quintas (winemaking houses), learn about various wine types, and of course, you’ll want to be sure to sample a local Port wine…
… because we all know learning is best when it’s hands on!
You can visit the museum daily, except for a few holidays like Christmas Day, January 1st, and May 1st.
When I visited the museum in March, there were barely any other people, so it was a pleasant and crowd-free experience.
That said, it might be a bit more crowded in the peak summer months, so maybe plan to go in the morning if you are visiting in the high season.
A regular ticket is only 7€, including the wine tasting — a great deal!
Check out the azulejos depicting the region’s history.
A nice (and free!) thing to do in Peso da Régua is to admire the beautiful azulejos in the town, which showcase in tile form the history of the region and its role in winemaking.
The beautiful azulejos are located close to the Peso da Régua train station — if you want to find them, look on Google Maps for Linha do Douro – Painel cerâmico de Manuel Casal Aguiar.
Done in the classic blue-and-white Portuguese style from which its name is derived (azulejo coming from ‘azul’ or ‘blue), these elegant tiles show scenes of the region’s Port wine production as well historical events related to the construction of the Linha do Douro railway.
Stroll along the Douro River.
If you’re looking for more free things to do in town, you can simply enjoy a lovely walk along the river Douro.
Follow the Cais da Régua, a stunning riverside promenade that extends all along the town and beyond, with lovely panoramic views over the river and the opposite bank.
You can admire the terraced vineyards on the other side of the water — a dreamy sight.
If you walk east from the train station, there’s a pedestrian bridge you can cross to get a view from the other side.
Sample Port wine at a local winery.
As you ought to have guessed, a stay in Peso da Régua wouldn’t be complete without a proper wine tasting!
Many quintas and wineries in town offer a wide range tastings, including ones that also include activities like hiking, so there’s something for every budget and taste.
The lovely Quinta do Tedo(aka Atelier do Porto) offers different types of wine tastings, from a basic tasting of Douro DOC wines and/or Ports to more prestigious vintage tastings… including a single-harvest Tawny Port tasting straight from the barrel.
As an added bonus, if you visit in the first half of September, you’ll also have a chance to join the harvest and even partake in the grape-stomping part of the process!
If you want to keep perusing the wine scene, Vasques de Carvalho, Quinta do Vallado (pictured above), and Quinta de São Domingos are some other wineries worth checking out for wine tasting and shopping for a bottle (or several!) to bring home.
Another way to taste some great wine is with a full-day wine tour — and doing it from Peso vs. taking a Douro tour from Porto means that you’ll skip about an hour of transport time each way.
This tour includes visits to two locations for wine tasting, lunch at a local restaurant serving traditional Portuguese fare, a boat trip along the Douro, and a stop at a gorgeous viewpoint to cap it all off.
Plus, you’ll have an expert guide to tell you all about the region and the wines you’re tasting along the way.
Hop on the historical train.
One of the must-do activities in the Douro Valley is taking the historical steam locomotive, the beautifully-preserved Douro Historical Train.
This traditional train runs from the town Peso da Régua, ambling along the winding curves of the Douro River, before reaching the charming Douro towns of Pinhão and Tua.
From there, you can go the same way you came to return to Régua and continue your trip.
The scenic journey offers some of the best views of the Douro as well as stops in some charming towns… but best of all, a tour on the historical train also includes — what else — a Port wine tasting and entertainment along the way!
You’ll also be able to get off the train in Pinhão and Tua to admire the old train stations — definitely don’t miss the stunning azulejos at the Pinhão railway station, which are some of the best in the region.
However, like I mentioned above, the Douro Historical Train is seasonal and it only runs on specific days between July and October.
Since tickets are limited and it’s a popular activity, be sure to book your tickets in advance so that they don’t sell out
As the first town in the Alto Douro region, Peso da Régua is the departure point for several Douro cruises, both upstream and downstream.
If you don’t have time for the full-day cruise down the Douro that I mentioned above, you’ll find shorter options here.
Several companies offer cruises from Régua. Some are one-way, for instance, from Régua to Pinhão, so you’ll have to arrange the return trip separately.
However, most cruises include the return to Régua. You can find several options, from simple boat tours to more elaborate affairs including lunch.
The Douro Valley is famous not only for the historic wineries but also for its many scenic viewpoints offering sweeping views of the stunning landscape.
The closest viewpoint to Peso da Régua is known as St. Anthony’s, or Miradouro de Santo António in Portuguese.
If you’re traveling by car, you can easily reach the spot in just 15 minutes from Régua.
Getting there on foot is a bit trickier since it takes over an hour of walking uphill!
If you can make it there, you’ll enjoy a spectacular view of Peso da Régua, the Douro, and the terraced vineyards all around — it’s certainly worth the effort.
Try tasty Portuguese food.
Lastly, to complete your stay, you can’t leave without enjoying some delicious local food.
Most restaurants in Régua serve traditional Portuguese food, so you’ll have plenty of choices.
Tasca da Quinta is a charming little spot right next to the Douro Museum, serving typical Portuguese fare like Alheira (typical Portuguese sausage) and Bacalhau a Bras (codfish).
Tio Manel serves generous portions of traditional, heartwarming food, while Castas e Pratos is the go-to place for fine dining.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
At the same time, the village is easy to reach by train from Milan, so it can also provide a perfect escape from the busy city.
One thing to think about when planning your trip is that Lake Como is a popular tourist destination virtually year-round.
Locals from nearby big cities, especially Milan, often head to the lake for a weekend getaway.
Of course, the village is even more popular in summer when many people want to escape from the city and enjoy the nature surrounding the lake.
If you’re hoping to visit Varenna in the summer, be prepared to pay higher prices for your accommodations, and expect big crowds. You may also want to book your accommodation in advance, so you have more choices.
Bottom line, while Varenna is an incredible summer destination, if you can avoid the peak months, I’d recommend it.
Spring and fall are generally better seasons for visiting most of the highly popular tourist destinations around Italy, and Varenna is no exception.
With that said, given Varenna’s location in the north of Italy, you should also consider that temperatures in winter, early spring, and late fall will be considerably colder.
Although you could just stop for a day in Varenna and check out most of the main sights, I strongly suggest spending at least a night there.
There’s plenty of things to see and do, and one day may not be enough.
One last tip: given the cobblestone alleys and many stairways around the village, I recommend packing comfortable shoes.
Things to Do in Varenna
Now that you’ve figured out your travel arrangements, it’s time to ask the real question: what should you actually do in Varenna?
From strolling around and enjoying beautiful lake views to visiting a gorgeous villa or hiking in the nearby mountains, Varenna certainly doesn’t lack options!
Here are my favorite ways to spend one or two days in this wonderful village.
Explore the town.
First of all, you’ll want to get familiar with Varenna by wandering around and exploring the narrow cobblestone alleys, stairways, and little squares.
The village is spread out over the side of a hill, offering scenic views over the lake and delightful little alleyways lined with colorful houses.
Be sure to check out the main square, Piazza San Giorgio, pay a visit to the lovely Church of San Giorgio, and stroll along the charming Via XX Settembre.
From there, you’ll find several alleys and stairways leading to the lakeside street Riva dei Marmisti.
To immerse yourself in the local culture, you can explore small art galleries, souvenir shops, and cafés.
Stop for a drink at the renowned Bar Il Molo or enjoy a coffee at Al Barilott for an even more local feel.
Lastly, you can spend a few hours relaxing on one of the beaches in Varenna, like the small one at Contrada del Molo di Sotto, near Villa Cipressi, or the one just north of the ferry station.
As an alternative, you can get a lounger at Olivedo Lido and soak in the sun while sipping a cocktail.
Visit Castello di Vezio.
The lovely Castello di Vezio is an imposing 12th-century castle standing on a promontory overlooking Lake Como.
While getting there requires a moderately challenging uphill hike, this castle is the best spot in Varenna to enjoy a gorgeous panoramic view of the lake.
The incredible medieval castle is surrounded by lush greenery, providing a peaceful setting to enjoy the view.
This gorgeous scenery alone is a good reason to visit, but there’s still so much more to discover — including its unique sculpture ghost installations.
You can also visit the castle’s dungeons, the tower, and the botanical garden.
Depending when you time your visit, you can often find temporary art exhibitions.
The castle is open daily from March 1st to November 1st, but during the winter, it’s only open on weekends when the weather is good.
Admission is pretty affordable — only a 5€ entry fee.
Stroll around the gardens of Villa Monastero.
If you have time to visit just one place in Varenna, make it the gardens ofVilla Monastero.
The villa is among the most important historical landmarks in the area, looking out over the lake and offering beautiful views.
Villa Monastero has a long history, dating all the way back to the 12th century when a monastery was in its place – hence the name.
During the 17th century, the monastery was transformed into a gorgeous residence.
The current villa was renovated in the 19th century but thankfully this preserved the layout of the earlier residence.
You can access the interior and check out the 19th-century decorations and furniture.
While the villa’s interior is nice, if you ask me, the best part is the garden!
With beautiful statues, fountains, and manicured flower beds, the gardens are a perfectly peaceful setting for a leisurely walk.
The villa is open to visitors from the beginning of March to early November.
You can choose between just visiting the botanical garden or getting a combo ticket for the garden and museum.
Walk the Passeggiata degli Innamorati.
Varenna has a lovely lakeside promenade extending all along the village known as Passeggiata degli Innamorati, or Lovers’ Promenade.
This charming pedestrian path starts at the pier of Varenna and ends in the town center.
The path is short, but packed with many scenic spots to enjoy the view and take beautiful pictures.
You can admire the colorful buildings facing Molo Riva Grande and the mountains on the opposite lakeshore.
Go on a hike.
If you’re up for a bit of physical activity, Varenna has convenient access to one of the most popular hiking trails in the area, Sentiero del Viandante.
The trail covers roughly 45 kilometers (28 miles), starting in Abbadia Lariana and ending in Piantedo.
From Varenna, you can walk the shortest trail north to Bellano, which takes two to three hours one-way, or opt for a longer hike south to Lierna.
You can hike out and back or catch the train on your way back to Varenna.
Join a cooking class or dining experience.
If you have a bit of extra time to spend in Varenna and want to have a local experience, you can join a fun activity like a cooking class or a dining experience.
During the three hours of thispasta and tiramisu cooking class, you can learn to make two pasta types and the iconic tiramisu, then eat everything in good company.
If you don’t want to get your hands dirty, you can attend a cooking demonstration and just focus on eating during thisdining experience at a local’s house.
This is the perfect opportunity to connect with locals while enjoying a delicious, home-cooked lunch or dinner.
Hop on a ferry to other villages.
Last but not least, if you want to spend several days on the lake, Varenna has convenient ferry connections to other villages, including direct ferry rides to Bellagio, Griante, and Menaggio.
Hopping on a ferry is the perfect opportunity to enjoy views of Varenna from a few different perspectives.
Ferry tickets vary depending on the destination, but they’re fairly affordable, starting from just around 3€.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
Lecco is a true hidden gem on Lake Como’s southeastern branch.
The area’s city sits at the southeastern tip of Lake Como, where the lake narrows into the Adda River before expanding again to form Lake Garlate.
Even though it’s the largest city in the southeastern region of the lake, Lecco is actually one of the less popular places on Lake Como, often overshadowed by the more famous Como or smaller villages like Varenna and Bellagio.
Despite this, it’s absolutely worth visiting if youtravel to Lake Como and have a few days to explore.
On one of my most recent trips from Milan to Lake Como, I got to spend some time in Lecco and I really enjoyed exploring the quaint city!
While it may lack the picturesque and colorful vibes of the smaller villages, it more than makes up for it with beautiful lakeside promenades, museums, and hiking areas.
Tips for Visiting Lecco
You can enjoy a pleasant stay in Lecco any time of the year, but shoulder months provide the best balance of good weather, lower prices, and smaller crowds.
For that best blend, April to May and late September are the best periods for visiting Lecco.
Of course, you can also visit the city in the summer!
However, while Lecco may be among the lesser-visited places on the lake, it can still get crowded (and expensive!) in the peak tourist season from June to early September.
Winter, on the other hand, is the best season for a crowd-free visit — and it won’t be super cold either.
Thanks to the surrounding mountains forming a bit of a barrier, Lecco tends to have milder temperatures than, say, Milan in winter.
With that said, you can still expect rain and gray skies throughout most of the winter months.
As for the time necessary to see all of Lecco, I would say one day is enough to explore the city and check out the main landmarks.
Spend a night in Lecco if you want to visit the museums and hike in the mountains nearby.
Things to Do in Lecco, Italy
Lecco is perhaps best known as the setting of Alessandro Manzoni’s most famous novel, The Betrothed. As such, the city features various spots related to the novel, including an entire museum dedicated to the author.
While Italians are generally familiar with the novel, most foreigners are unlikely to have read it.
However, it can still be interesting to check out the museum and places mentioned in the novel to learn more about it, and you might even decide to give the novel a try!
Not convinced? Don’t worry! If you’re not interested in literature, there is plenty to do in Lecco.
Wander around town and enjoy the view.
Lecco may be one of the largest cities on Lake Como, but you can easily walk around the historical center and to all the important landmarks.
While you’re wandering around, check out the lakefront Piazza XX Settembre, stroll along Via Roma, and look for the iconic Monument to Manzoni.
From Piazza XX Settembre, you can walk along the lakeshore on Lungolario Isonzo and stop off in the small lakefront park.
The area offers an iconic view of Lecco’s bell tower, Campanile di San Nicolò, against the stunning backdrop of the mountains.
North of the bell tower, you can continue walking along the pedestrian way Lungolago di Lecco while enjoying even more beautiful lake views.
Visit the Church of Saint Nicolò and climb the bell tower.
The Neoclassical Church of Saint Nicolò has a gorgeous interior with pink marble columns and beautiful frescoes by Giotto.
While the striking tower often steals the show, it’s worth visiting the church interior too!
At 96 meters (315 feet) in height, Campanile San Nicolò, also known as Campanile di Lecco (literally “Lecco’s Bell Tower”), is one of the tallest in Europe.
You can visit the bell tower on a guided tour, and climb the 396 steps to enjoy a spectacular 360°-view of Lecco, the lake, and the surrounding mountains.
Plan ahead before your trip, though, since online booking is necessary to climb the tower.
You can check the tower’s websiteand pick a date to book the guided tour.
Opening days and times can vary depending on the season, so check all the details ahead of time. The entire guided tour lasts roughly one hour.
Explore the open-air museum of Pescarenico.
Pescarenico is a small district of Lecco, made famous as the only place explicitly mentioned in Manzoni’s The Betrothed.
In the 16th century, Pescarenico was a small fishing village centered around the main square in the village, Piazza Era.
The area has maintained the charm of an old-time village, with historical, colorful houses and a small port.
Even if you haven’t read Manzoni’s novel, you can enjoy wandering around this picturesque area along with the lovely lake view.
Check out the exhibitions at Palazzo delle Paure.
Palazzo delle Paure is a neo-medieval building from the early 20th century.
The name of the building literally translates to “Palace of Fears” and dates back to when the building housed the customs and finance offices (fearful indeed!).
Today, Palazzo delle Paure is home to one of the most important museums in Lecco.
The second floor houses a permanent contemporary art exhibition, while the ground floor is dedicated to temporary exhibitions.
Visit Villa Manzoni to see the city’s historical legacy.
Villa Manzoni holds a significant place in both Lecco and the life and literary works of Alessandro Manzoni.
The villa belonged to the writer’s family and inspired him to write the very first lines of his masterpiece!
If you want to learn more about the celebrated author, Villa Manzoni is the best place to go.
The museum is entirely dedicated to the life and works of Manzoni, housing antique furniture and original artworks.
You can get a ticket just for the Villa Manzoni or a combined ticket, which includes entry to Palazzo delle Paure.
Hike to Crocione San Martino.
Crocione San Martino is a large cross standing at the top of Monte San Martino, the iconic mountain that towers over Lecco.
The scenic viewpoint offers one of the best views over Lake Como, but the hike is actually quite challenging!
The loop trail is roughly 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) long and takes around four hours, but the trail isn’t for everyone, as it includes portions of actual rock climbing, but it’s a great workout for experienced hikers.
Don’t worry if you’re not feeling up for this intense hike, though! There are alternative trails to reach Crocione San Martino.
Sentiero dei Pizzetti (starting from Via Stelvio) is the most difficult, while Sentiero da Rancio (starting from Via Paradiso) is still challenging but more accessible.
Admire the view from Belvedere Parco Valentino.
One scenic viewpoint close to Lecco that somehow beats the one from Crocione San Martino is Belvedere Parco Valentino.
A viewing platform extends from the mountain toward the lake, offering a panoramic view of the surrounding landscape. For my money, this is probably the most beautiful view in Lombardy.
The viewing platform is high up, so it’s important to go on a clear day. On a cloudy day, you may even find yourself above the clouds, which is admittedly a unique experience, but you won’t get to see much of the lake.
As you might expect, sunset is a great time to visit, as the gorgeous light illuminates the entire region for a truly magical effect.
The only downside to this place is that it’s not very easy to reach, but there are a couple options!
The easiest way is by car. You can drive about 40 minutes from Lecco, park in Piani Resinelli, and then walk for half an hour to the viewpoint.
If you don’t have access to a car, you can also get there by bus number 7. The bus stops roughly 10 minutes away from the parking lot.
Roxana is a Romanian-born freelance travel writer who has lived in Italy for over 15 years. She has a Master’s in Journalism and a Bachelor’s in Film Studies, and she studied at Università degli Studi di Roma Tre. Besides her native Romania, Roxana has lived in Rome, Lisbon, and Berlin, and she has traveled through much of Europe in search of hidden gems, history, and culture.
